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Maaaan. Had another leak. (after putting element in and filling up with water). Re soldering this is a pain.. try and feed a little more solder in one spot causes the solder to run out in other close by areas... I uglied it up a little more but no leaks now.. there is one toothpick tip sized pin hole that has me irked but i let it sit for 10 or 15 mins fully submerged and no noticable leaks.. Thinking ill leave it be for now. Hopefully i wont have any more leaks.

If it holds water now is there any reason to worry about it leaking when boiling? Hopefully im being picky lol

j3hx wrote:If it holds water now is there any reason to worry about it leaking when boiling?

Maybe you'll be lucky...but maybe not. Water has a viscosity and surface tension which can cause it to resist flowing into a "pin hole". But, when the boiler is filled and steaming, it'll have a slight pressure on it. Plus, the wash's viscosity (and surface tension) will be significantly diminished due to the heat (and internal pressure). It (the pin hole) likely will "piss on you", or at least drip. I hope not...but I wouldn't hold my breath, or cross my fingers.

What I've used to close pin holes in solder joints is a pin tip oxy-Mapp torch. It has a higher heat and a very fine point allowing me to direct the heat right on a "dimple" or pin hole. That will melt the solder locally and the puddle will close the hole. I've had to do this several times when building shotgun condensers. But the fine tipped torch allows me a very precise heat affected zone. You just have to use the "right tool for the job".

Good luck with your joint...you'll need it.
ss

still_stirrin wrote:

j3hx wrote:If it holds water now is there any reason to worry about it leaking when boiling?

Maybe you'll be lucky...but maybe not. Water has a viscosity and surface tension which can cause it to resist flowing into a "pin hole". But, when the boiler is filled and steaming, it'll have a slight pressure on it. Plus, the wash's viscosity (and surface tension) will be significantly diminished due to the heat (and internal pressure). It (the pin hole) likely will "piss on you", or at least drip. I hope not...but I wouldn't hold my breath, or cross my fingers.

What I've used to close pin holes in solder joints is a pin tip oxy-Mapp torch. It has a higher heat and a very fine point allowing me to direct the heat right on a "dimple" or pin hole. That will melt the solder locally and the puddle will close the hole. I've had to do this several times when building shotgun condensers. But the fine tipped torch allows me a very precise heat affected zone. You just have to use the "right tool for the job".

Good luck with your joint...you'll need it.
ss

Thanks for the tip SS, i am hopeful. Ill let you know how it goes!

j3hx wrote:

still_stirrin wrote:

j3hx wrote:If it holds water now is there any reason to worry about it leaking when boiling?

Maybe you'll be lucky...but maybe not. Water has a viscosity and surface tension which can cause it to resist flowing into a "pin hole". But, when the boiler is filled and steaming, it'll have a slight pressure on it. Plus, the wash's viscosity (and surface tension) will be significantly diminished due to the heat (and internal pressure). It (the pin hole) likely will "piss on you", or at least drip. I hope not...but I wouldn't hold my breath, or cross my fingers.

What I've used to close pin holes in solder joints is a pin tip oxy-Mapp torch. It has a higher heat and a very fine point allowing me to direct the heat right on a "dimple" or pin hole. That will melt the solder locally and the puddle will close the hole. I've had to do this several times when building shotgun condensers. But the fine tipped torch allows me a very precise heat affected zone. You just have to use the "right tool for the job".

Good luck with your joint...you'll need it.
ss

Thanks for the tip SS, i am hopeful. Ill let you know how it goes!

20 mins or so in and all but have steam blowing out. No leak so far!!! This 5500 is beastly.

First "full" run on the new keg/electric.. Collected most of what i thought id get and then the leak started.. sucks i had to waste some lows.

I dont know if i should pull the radius flange entirely or just feed more in all the way around... it was hard to tell exactly where it was leaking.. It didnt leak when full, when doing water only boil, or an hour-hour.5 into the first run..

A bit bummed out.

Bummer man
Can you pressurize it somehow and do a bubble test to find the leak?

Is the leak on the element flange?

its for sure on the flange. I tried to add more solder ans got a mess.. Ended up pulling the flange and cleaned it up. Debating on having it welded.. unless i can try it again and it work out.. Have enough solder for 1 more try.. not sure what ill do =/

zapata wrote:Bummer man
Can you pressurize it somehow and do a bubble test to find the leak?

I didnt think of that.. I shouldve paid more attention but it was running out in my floor/carpet lol, had to shut it down and carry it outside. It was weird it didnt seem to leak for a while then was coming out pretty good.

acfixer69 wrote:Is the leak on the element flange?

Yeah, it was on left side.. i tried adding generous amounta of flux ans more solder.. it would run out the other side.. could never get a good "bead" around the flange on that side for some reason.

You don't need to weld it I've 2 on one keg and used standard ferrules I just used the sledge to make the keg flat there. You clean up and post a pic of the clean stuff.

acfixer69 wrote:You don't need to weld it I've 2 on one keg and used standard ferrules I just used the sledge to make the keg flat there. You clean up and post a pic of the clean stuff.

I see a few issues i need to try and work out. Ironically the side with the rough parts was the side that didnt leak a bit and had the most smooth, solid joint.

Here is after i pulled it and sanded a little.. Its not fully clean but just hit it for 5 mins or so and put it up.

Its a radius flange so not completely flat, im goimg to try and smooth out the rough parts if i can get them out.

What kind of torch at you using

acfixer69 wrote:What kind of torch at you using

Using Propane, solder kit from brewhardware (#8 and harris stay kleen)

I heated around the fitting first, stopped amd added flux every so often

googled and got nothing got a pic heheehe

acfixer69 wrote:googled and got nothing got a pic heheehe

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/silversolder.htm

https://www.millerhardware.com/p-2355-p ... v-EALw_wcB

Ok the pic with the keg there is a couple slashes at the 1 o'clock pos. clean them out or take the out with a file and fit the ferrule like you did the first time with the molly bolt. With that slow torch you will need to feed the solder as you heat it. Not melt the solder. The metal will meld the solder when you touch it to it. Keep testing as you move around the furrel. don't let the flame melt the solder and add more flux as you go if needed

I left my stickers on. Zero F's given

acfixer69 wrote:Ok the pic with the keg there is a couple slashes at the 1 o'clock pos. clean them out or take the out with a file and fit the ferrule like you did the first time with the molly bolt. With that slow torch you will need to feed the solder as you heat it. Not melt the solder. The metal will meld the solder when you touch it to it. Keep testing as you move around the furrel. don't let the flame melt the solder and add more flux as you go if needed

Thanks AC, i will give it another go and see how it goes. Would i be better off investing in Mapp gas possibly? I will work on getting those slashes out and update. Thanks!!

Dremel did the trick.. its a little deep on that one scratch

Should that suffice or should i dig in deeper. Trying not to make a dip in the surface lol.
I may hit it a little more all the way around and on inside a little. But will b tomorrow lol. Way too loud for tonight

Thanks!

You've hit bottom. It'all up from here.

I honestly dont remember, but I think I have used both mapp and propane. But my torch isnt a "pencil" flame, more like a super fat magic marker I dont know how much that matters?

I pretty much followed brewhardware's video, with the exception of when he takes the heat off, he takes it off. I was more likely to just move the torch pretty far away from the joint and KEEP IT MOVING around on the keg. Not always, because I'm not that coordinated, but more or less just keeping the keg warm somewhere while I was applying the solder. Like maybe a foot or more away, and making big circles with the torch so I couldnt over heat one spot.
I had a small lip on the inside of my fitting where the hole was undersized, and I did apply more flux there mid application, but I think I did all the soldering from the outside of the fitting but could easily see when it flowed all the way under the fitting.

You got this man!

Thanks Guys! Im going to give it a shot tonight if i get a chance. Going to clean it a lot more and see what i can get this time. Ill post an update!

another thought was if i have an issue i may try a regular flange.. Not sure but with this one i have more area i have to fill/prevent leans vs a normal flange which would essentially need a bead around the edge only?

Ideally you want that surface area to make a stronger joint.

gave it a shot.. it was a pita again around certain spots that seemed like they never would fill.. started running out other sides again.. Tried using some gravity to help it flow to where i needed.. its not pretty but we will see...

I would use the one with the radius I think that small touch will work but don't rush it move it around and don't be afraid to add more flux when feeding the soldier I will dip the soldier in the acid if things are moving slow to replace the stuff that evaporates. Don't flame or melt the soldier let the keg and ferrule melt it.

edit I see you already got it done

acfixer69 wrote:I would use the one with the radius I think that small touch will work but don't rush it move it around and don't be afraid to add more flux when feeding the soldier I will dip the soldier in the acid if things are moving slow to replace the stuff that evaporates. Don't flame or melt the soldier let the keg and ferrule melt it.

edit I see you already got it done

Hopefully it holds.. lol Im gonna fill it up in a bit and see what happens. Fingers crossed..

1st pic looks like pieces may not have been hot enough the soldier didn't wet.