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Pikey wrote:

StarkBlood1980 wrote:

Swedish Pride wrote:HArris stay clean works lovely
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Harris-SCLF16- ... Sw8mpbGwOm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

This is the flux I’m using for brazing http://www.jm-metaljoining.com/pdfs-pro ... Powder.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I’m guessing that won’t work for plumbers solder. That Harris stay clean is expensive here in the UK, not sure I can justify £40 on 3 ferrules.

This is what we have in UK and Aus -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bakers-250ml ... SwZjhXI3jE


"Harris by any other name" - SAme stuff "Killed hydrochloric acid"

I had another go at brazing this morning and actually found it pretty easy. MAPP has was more than enough to heat my 67x750mm pipe. Had my 3 ferrules done in under an hour.

[/quote]would soft soldering be strong enough to hold a ferrule in place if its at the bottom of a 60 inch column with a stainless tee on it and heavy packing? , I would have thought the smallest tap at the top of the column would crack the ferrule away from the column , thats why I tried to silver solder it[/quote]

Messing around with my still, I had a 2 foot leibig attached to the side of the ss tee, probably 10lbs. I jerked the keg and rotated it and snapped the joint. I only have a 40in column. The joint is strong enough so long as you treat it with care when moving or yanking on it. You just want to keep the mass over the ferrule and support any mass way off to the side. That said, if you don't want to worry about that, don't solder it.

Don't forget to provide support for your heavy bits; a bracket fixed to the wall or a cable from the rafters....

Geoff

StillerBoy wrote:Part of your issue with soldering the ferrrule is using the improper tools, cleaning and application..

All the part need to be properly sanded, cleaned, and the s.s. cleaned with acetone or lacquer thinner.. then prep with the properly paste, for s.s. Stay Clean liquid flux or Superior 71 paste (both are very good for s.s.) then the proper propane tip, a fire brick or regular one, solder which has some silver content to it, and time..

Using the proper propane tip, direct the flame at the base of the ferrulw where the s.s. ferrule makes contact with the brick, and about an inch above the end of the ferrule, alternating from bottom and top, heating it slowly up to the point where the solder rings inside start to soften or melt.. then slowly work it until the solder starts to appear on the outside of the ferrule.

The picture provide some visual insight..

Mars

This was a very helpful post, especially because of the pics.

I'm about to try my first solder joints of SS Ferrules onto 2" copper pipe and have a few questions for those with experience:

-your pic shows two solder 'rings' I suspect that one is placed on the 'ledge' of the ferrule placed within the pipe (ferrule down) and the other is placed around the ferrule below the pipe, correct?

And both of these solder 'rings' are in place cool/dry and melted at the same time using the methods described?

Finally, I've seen reference to both 'lead-free plumber's solder' and 'silver solder' - if I've understood correctly, from the point of view of safety and effectiveness of seal, either will work but 'silver' solder may provide more mechanical strength than lead-free plumber's solder, is that right?

I have a Radnor Stay Brite kit consisting of a spool of 3/64" (1.2mm) Stay Brite Solder which is 3.4-3.8% silver and the balance tin and 1/2 oz. of Stay Clean liquid flux.

I believe this is the proper flux but would appreciate to know whether this is also the best solder to use for SS-to-copper joints (I bought the kit for soldering SS-to-SS joints). Lead-free plumber's solder is quite a bit less expensive, so if it is going to work as well and is easier to use, would I be better-off using that?

If you have a good silver bearing solder which it looks like you do , 3.8 % silver and the stay clean flux I would use that. I have never had good luck with plain plumbers solder for stainless to copper connections. The silver bearing solder makes it sooooo much easier. Remember to clean all the parts well and use a good amount of flux keeping the heat source away from the flux. You will need to keep more of the heat on the copper as it will dissipate the heat quicker than the stainless. When the flux begins to bubble I wash it againwith fresh liquid flux and continue to heat . Keep touching the solder to the joint and when they come up to the proper temperature the solder will flow and wick into all the gaps . Remember, keep the heat moving and don't concentrate on one spot. I did this little test a while ago to show the wicking properties of the staybrite solder on a copper to stainless connection. This is staybrite 8 at 6% silver but the 3.8 should work as well.

corene1 wrote:If you have a good silver bearing solder which it looks like you do , 3.8 % silver and the stay clean flux I would use that. I have never had good luck with plain plumbers solder for stainless to copper connections. The silver bearing solder makes it sooooo much easier. Remember to clean all the parts well and use a good amount of flux keeping the heat source away from the flux. You will need to keep more of the heat on the copper as it will dissipate the heat quicker than the stainless. When the flux begins to bubble I wash it againwith fresh liquid flux and continue to heat . Keep touching the solder to the joint and when they come up to the proper temperature the solder will flow and wick into all the gaps . Remember, keep the heat moving and don't concentrate on one spot. I did this little test a while ago to show the wicking properties of the staybrite solder on a copper to stainless connection. This is staybrite 8 at 6% silver but the 3.8 should work as well.

P4200022.JPG

Thanks for the suggestions. Just one question - from the earlier pics including the two solder 'rings' it looked as though the solder was put in place cool/dry before any heating (like I have done for soldering stainless couplers into stainless pots/kegs).

But when you write 'keep touching the solder to the joint' it sounds as though you are suggesting to forget about pre-forming solder rings and just touch the end of the solder against the heated metal to let it melt and wick up (like is usual for copper-on-copper soldering).

Is that what you are suggesting and if so, is solder only applied to the bottom of the copper pipe and allowed to wick up to the top of the ferrule? Do you want to see solder at the top of the ferrule against the inside of the pipe and what do you do if there is none there?

Pipe vertical with ferrule down (as suggested in the earlier post, on a brick) or pipe horizontal, or pipe vertical with ferrule on top?

Thanks for your help - I'm going to go ahead and use my 3.8% silver-bearing solder, as you suggest...

I have never formed the solder ring when I solder, It doesn't mean that it is the only way I see many here get excellent results using the ring of solder I just think I get better control applying the solder as necessary . Yes I would set the assembly ferrule down and apply heat to the copper pipe and let the solder wick thru the joint. If the heat is correct it will flow right into the joint and leave a small bead of solder around the perimeter. Don't cool with water let it air cool . When it is cool wash it with soapy water and it will be sparkly clean.

corene1 wrote:I have never formed the solder ring when I solder, It doesn't mean that it is the only way I see many here get excellent results using the ring of solder I just think I get better control applying the solder as necessary . Yes I would set the assembly ferrule down and apply heat to the copper pipe and let the solder wick thru the joint. If the heat is correct it will flow right into the joint and leave a small bead of solder around the perimeter. Don't cool with water let it air cool . When it is cool wash it with soapy water and it will be sparkly clean.

Thanks for the clarification. I'll probably try it that way first...

Ive always used harris flux and staybrite 8 solder using mapp gas with zero problems. Never tried normal plumbing flux or solder so no idea how that would work. Warm the thicker stainless a bit and then indirect heat on the copper and it will take the solder like a champ . Makes a nice looking joint too.

I used mapp gas and silver solder to attach my ferrule to a 2” pipe. Use paste flux, clean the surface with sandpaper, heat the fertile, it’s going to smoke, you should be able to touch the solder and it will go right in. If it doesn’t go then heat the ferrule more. The flux will suck the solder right in after it has been heated for a minute or so evenly.