NZChris wrote:I doubt you'll find a textbook that agrees with that.
Replacing 1600W with 1375W will give you 1375W and less heating power, regardless of the size and shape of the elements.
Lower watt density. Not more power...better heat transfer. More surface area to conduct the heat into. Don’t you suppose that’s why ULWD’s were developed? Faster water heater recovery.
ss
you can add a cheap hotplate under the kettle too, to bring it up to temperature. it also gives something to set the kettle on, other than a cold concrete floor.
still_stirrin wrote:Lower watt density. Not more power...better heat transfer. More surface area to conduct the heat into. Don’t you suppose that’s why ULWD’s were developed? Faster water heater recovery.
ss
Calculations to find the Watts needed to raise a known volume of water a desired number of degrees, do not include the shape of the element.
still_stirrin wrote:Lower watt density. Not more power...better heat transfer. More surface area to conduct the heat into. Don’t you suppose that’s why ULWD’s were developed? Faster water heater recovery.
ss
Calculations to find the Watts needed to raise a known volume of water a desired number of degrees, do not include the shape of the element.
Chris,
But heat ransfer is proportional to the mass times the coefficient of heat transfer times the difference in temperature. The liquid boils when T2, the temperature is at saturation of the liquid. Surface area affects the heat transfer by the amount of liquid (mass) exposed to the temperature difference. Go look in your heat transfer books...that’s where you see it comes to play.
ss
still_stirrin wrote:Lower watt density. Not more power...better heat transfer. More surface area to conduct the heat into. Don’t you suppose that’s why ULWD’s were developed? Faster water heater recovery.
ss
Calculations to find the Watts needed to raise a known volume of water a desired number of degrees, do not include the shape of the element.
Chris,
But heat ransfer is proportional to the mass times the coefficient of heat transfer times the difference in temperature. The liquid boils when T2, the temperature is at saturation of the liquid. Surface area affects the heat transfer by the amount of liquid (mass) exposed to the temperature difference. Go look in your heat transfer books...that’s where you see it comes to play.
ss
I don’t know much about this, but that seems to make the most sense. If the keg itself provided heat I imagine all the surface area would heat it up much quicker even at a little lower output
My brother was in the nuke program in the navy. He used to spew that heat transfer and fluid flow shit all the time. Way over my head, but glad we have folks that understand it.
Wrapped it in two thick blankets and it really didn’t do much to improve.
Returning my 110v controller since that’s useless. Stuck with my two 110v elements because local shop won’t let me return. He didn’t seem to get the idea of stripping runs and said I want to run it slow like that. I don’t. Not until my spirit run....
Think I’m just goin to grit my teeth and endure for a month or two until I can just buy the 220v controller/element combo from MH and be done with it.
I run a 5500 watt low density stainless element from Home Depot on 120v=1375 watts.
It's slow to bring a 12gal wash in a 15.5g keg to boil. (About 1 hr)
But, it runs fine for my 2" Boka... Can't push em too hard in LM/reflux, or you end up like Lucille Ball in the pie factory, trying to keep it leveled out.
I think you were possibly over doing it on the propane strips, and picking up alot of water in your runs. What was the typical START/END/AVERAGE abv of your strips?
If your mash was 10%abv for 15 gal, did you collect more than 1.5gal low wines? (For round figures).
Does the math add up, or were you boiling water over as well.
Even with a nuclear reactor for power, you still shouldn't run over a steady drizzle on the strip. Not on 15 gal of beer.
Also, if your elements aren't low density, they heat more concentrated in the middle, and less across the whole element. This boils what contacts that small area, not the whole mash. You get steam from what touches the HOT PART of the element, instead of uniform heat transfer to the entire volume.
Fruit Squeezer wrote:Does the math add up, or were you boiling water over as well.
I think we all know when we puke from the color, but I do suspect there is something wrong with the numbers. 3200W in a keg still should easily be enough to strip at a stream to 40% abv low wines and easily be able to squeeze them down to 25% unless your distillery is in an open plan igloo during a storm.
Fruit Squeezer wrote:Does the math add up, or were you boiling water over as well.
I think we all know when we puke from the color, but I do suspect there is something wrong with the numbers. 3200W in a keg still should easily be enough to strip at a stream to 40% abv low wines and easily be able to squeeze them down to 25% unless your distillery is in an open plan igloo during a storm.
Haaahahahaha....
I do 12/13 gallon washes at 10-12% and strip out 2.5 gallons. If I recall Heads start around 70%. I strip down to 25-30%. Once I dump them all together I still need to add quite a bit of water to dilute to 35% for low wines. With propane I was outdoors in 40F temps. Indoor I’m at 70F with insulated boiler.
I haven’t noticed anything different between propane and electric besides speed. Besides isn’t the point of stripping to quickly get through the run and intentionally push water(flavor) through?
I’m going to try a better extension cord and see if I’m losing power through that. Honestly I’m mostly bummed it’s not MORE than I need, because that’s why I bought the controller. So I can crank it up to blast and dial it down just perfect. Sounds like I should have just started with 220v for that.
Will a single 220v at full strength be ok for stripping runs or dangerously over powered on a 13 gal wash?
I use an Ammeter and a multimeter for checking what's happening with my elements. None of my elements are true to label, but they still have enough grunt for what I need. I'd like to know what amps you are running and if you are having a voltage drop, but without the tools we'll never know. If your any of your extension cords or plugs are getting hot, they should be replaced.
Ordering a 220v plug and play element from mile high. For now I’ll run one 220v(true full size 220v) and one 110v for heat up then pull the plug on 1.The 110v leaving just 220v for stripping or 2. The 220v leaving a single 110v for slow spirit run.
Eventually I’ll buy the 220v controller in a month or two.
Yes. In NZ plugs state what Volts and Amps they are rated for.
What you have is under rated, hence the heating of the cables and some degree of voltage drop over the length of the cables. How much the voltage drop would affect your output I don't know because I've never run with an undersized cable, but it should be able to be calculated by any sparky who legitimately got his ticket.
When you go to 220V 5500W you will need at 30A plugs and 10 gauge cable. If you are using the same sparky, don't let him talk you into less.
NZChris wrote:Yes. In NZ plugs state what Volts and Amps they are rated for.
What you have is under rated, hence the heating of the cables and some degree of voltage drop over the length of the cables. How much the voltage drop would affect your output I don't know because I've never run with an undersized cable, but it should be able to be calculated by any sparky who legitimately got his ticket.
When you go to 220V 5500W you will need at 30A plugs and 10 gauge cable. If you are using the same sparky, don't let him talk you into less.
Ah thanks. I’ll make sure to check that on my 220v extension cord. As for the one attached to the element I’m buying direct from mile high. No more from that guy.
popcorn2014 wrote:All of the cords are warm/hot. Even the permanently attached ones on the element.
They plug into a computer tower type plug. I thought that was a bit weird and didn’t really like it.
They are known as an IEC connector .Used a lot for electric kettles where the plugs , sockets and leads are rated at 10 amps .
Unfortunately they become the standard on computer equipment .These types are only rated at around 3 amps and explains why they get hot .
I have personal experience with this . I built a controller into an old PC power supply case .Ran fine for a long time but I knew it was running hot .
Eventually it melted and smoke come out
There is a lot of sense in NZchris suggesting using plugs sockets that are way higher current handling capacity than the required load .
