Modular flute with options
Posted: Sat Dec 14, 2019 9:07 am
So I’ve decided to build a second flute. I’m planning on completely modular this time and trying to allow for being able to use both sieve plate and bubble tray in the same housing. I have several questions regarding design to try to keep everything compatible to both plate types. All input will be appreciated and all me to set a design prior to cutting copper.
First off I’ll be running 4” on a keg boiler with 4” ferrule, (I may upgrade to a 26 gallon milk can at a later date). I’ll be full electric.
Here is my ideas:
I have ordered copper union style windows in 2.5”, should be here in about a week. On my first build I used 2” windows having the bottom of the window at the top of the downcomer. Seeing the top of the bubble activity is difficult at times so thinking of moving the window up a 1/4” above downcomer and the extra 1/2” of window size should give me a better view of the action.
The first column had a 3/4 fluid depth and 180 1/16” holes with 5.5” plate spacing. The product it produced may be on the lighter side but I enjoy it, so the bath depth may stay the same, (I’ve only ran SF so far). My next set of plates may be a little closer to 300 1/16” holes. 3/4 downcomers terminating into a 1 1/4” cup.
Here’s the first questions on plate sections: What is the optimum plate spacing for perf and bubble plates? Since one produces bubbles vertically through the bath and the other is a lateral into the bath is the height requirements different? I had be thinking about using a 6” spacing on my plates. Also, when terminating a downcomer into a cup suspended what is the best distance for it to be above the plate below? Does it affect it to be touching the bath, and what is the recommended distance above the angle cut that the fluid in the cup should extend?
I have some 3/4” return bends, could one be used for the bottom J trap? That question was referring to is it possible to have too much depth in the J, I know recommended is 3/4” minimum but what about deeper?
My plan is to use copper outside fit ferrules and machine the top ferrule to allow the plate to pass into the section and rest on the lower ferrule lip. I can cut to a press fit tolerance using a lathe to help eliminate leakage around the plate. I can build some sort of a gasket for the perch if need be.
The next question is hardware related. I will need several more 4” clamps. I’ve been looking at both the two segment and three segment clamps. I found a decent deal on Waukesha Burrell clamps, and think I remember them being a good product from past reading. I wasn’t sure if the three segment were better?
My current build uses a 4.75” dephleg with seven 1” tubes. I can’t get full reflux at max heat input, and seemed to have a little fluctuation in vapor flow through at times. I do like the quick response time to needle valve adjustments. Just a few seconds on small adjustments. I will be building a another dephleg for this column and was thinking of trying a different design. Possibly the use of 3/4” tubes. If I’d stay with a 1” would placing a spiral of copper wire in the tubes help create turbulence and increase dephleg knockdown? I already have a couple Nibco 4x2 reducers, so a shotgun style is preferred, although I’ve seen a couple drop ins (Saltbush) that could be modified onto a reduced if need be. So far all of my runs have been 5-6 gallon of low wines with 5 gallon of wash. Typically 25-30%. Getting the chance to experiment has been limited with ferments also moving a little slower than I thought they should be.
The shotgun condenser will probably be the same baffled seven 3/8 tubes that the current configuration is.
Here is a photo of the sight windows that was sent from the supplier.
I will have a total of six. Planning on building 5 plates and either putting a window for the J trap, or top of the neutral section. Speaking of neutral section, how far from the top are they usually filled with lava rock?
First off I’ll be running 4” on a keg boiler with 4” ferrule, (I may upgrade to a 26 gallon milk can at a later date). I’ll be full electric.
Here is my ideas:
I have ordered copper union style windows in 2.5”, should be here in about a week. On my first build I used 2” windows having the bottom of the window at the top of the downcomer. Seeing the top of the bubble activity is difficult at times so thinking of moving the window up a 1/4” above downcomer and the extra 1/2” of window size should give me a better view of the action.
The first column had a 3/4 fluid depth and 180 1/16” holes with 5.5” plate spacing. The product it produced may be on the lighter side but I enjoy it, so the bath depth may stay the same, (I’ve only ran SF so far). My next set of plates may be a little closer to 300 1/16” holes. 3/4 downcomers terminating into a 1 1/4” cup.
Here’s the first questions on plate sections: What is the optimum plate spacing for perf and bubble plates? Since one produces bubbles vertically through the bath and the other is a lateral into the bath is the height requirements different? I had be thinking about using a 6” spacing on my plates. Also, when terminating a downcomer into a cup suspended what is the best distance for it to be above the plate below? Does it affect it to be touching the bath, and what is the recommended distance above the angle cut that the fluid in the cup should extend?
I have some 3/4” return bends, could one be used for the bottom J trap? That question was referring to is it possible to have too much depth in the J, I know recommended is 3/4” minimum but what about deeper?
My plan is to use copper outside fit ferrules and machine the top ferrule to allow the plate to pass into the section and rest on the lower ferrule lip. I can cut to a press fit tolerance using a lathe to help eliminate leakage around the plate. I can build some sort of a gasket for the perch if need be.
The next question is hardware related. I will need several more 4” clamps. I’ve been looking at both the two segment and three segment clamps. I found a decent deal on Waukesha Burrell clamps, and think I remember them being a good product from past reading. I wasn’t sure if the three segment were better?
My current build uses a 4.75” dephleg with seven 1” tubes. I can’t get full reflux at max heat input, and seemed to have a little fluctuation in vapor flow through at times. I do like the quick response time to needle valve adjustments. Just a few seconds on small adjustments. I will be building a another dephleg for this column and was thinking of trying a different design. Possibly the use of 3/4” tubes. If I’d stay with a 1” would placing a spiral of copper wire in the tubes help create turbulence and increase dephleg knockdown? I already have a couple Nibco 4x2 reducers, so a shotgun style is preferred, although I’ve seen a couple drop ins (Saltbush) that could be modified onto a reduced if need be. So far all of my runs have been 5-6 gallon of low wines with 5 gallon of wash. Typically 25-30%. Getting the chance to experiment has been limited with ferments also moving a little slower than I thought they should be.
The shotgun condenser will probably be the same baffled seven 3/8 tubes that the current configuration is.
Here is a photo of the sight windows that was sent from the supplier.
I will have a total of six. Planning on building 5 plates and either putting a window for the J trap, or top of the neutral section. Speaking of neutral section, how far from the top are they usually filled with lava rock?