Soldering cxc elbows to ferrules

[Tōtōchtin]

Cleaning up pieces now, tomorrow I will try all at once. I want to cut the sleeves down to the size of the shoulder on a ferrule,well a little bigger.
Thanks for all your advice.
T

[Sporacle]

ImgResizer_20230530_1454_09507.jpg
I hope this works for you, I had to relearn how to resize my photo.
I should add I used Oatey H-20 tinning flux on the copper to copper.

Lucky I didn't post what I thought, it would have got way more confusing for you.

If you have got any 1 inch or even half inch sockets or elbows that you can practice on, I would do that.
The smaller fitting will give a better indicator of how the solder flows or wicks around the joint and the heat required to do it.
Once you get the heat application right it becomes a lot easier.
Clean, clean and clean some more. I fit everything together wearing gloves and give everything a final wipe with acetone.
Good luck

[Tōtōchtin]

I wipe it all down include the solder using alcohol de caña 96*. It's damn expensive at a 1.50/ liter. I had problems with my first fitting I did because of the heat, especially with my memory/time problem. I had solder pooling inside the elbow. I just had to tell myself to slow down and move the heat and not just create hot spots. I find it easier because it's cooler and I can see color better towards sunset. I can watch the heat travel as the copper slightly changes color.
I was having the problem of the ferrule not reaching the correct temps quick enough. By the time it was ready to solder it, the sleeve would weep out some solder from the elbow.
Tōtō

[Yummyrum]

Solder will run and dribble everywhere . When you see pictures of folks finished soldering I can guarantee that 99% of those pictures had runs and dribble everywhere that was filed ,sanded and probably polished before the picture was taken . At least half the solder I melt ends up on the floor .

[Wildcats]

Solder will run and dribble everywhere . When you see pictures of folks finished soldering I can guarantee that 99% of those pictures had runs and dribble everywhere that was filed ,sanded and probably polished before the picture was taken . At least half the solder I melt ends up on the floor .

Rite. Best on the floor than to fall and hit your hand or leg. It'll make ya jump ,to say the least. And be blistering within an hour. Don't ask how I know

[Dradas]

Made a bad mistake getting cxc rather then cxs elbows. Tomorrow I am starting to soldering these together. Since I am glueing 3 pieces together that are made from 2 different materials I see a problem. Just wanted to check in and see if I am stumbling in the right direction. I plan on soldering the copper sleeve inside the elbow then the soldering the ss ferrule by applying heat mainly to the ferrule. Or is this ass backwards?
Thank you for your time,
Tōtō
I recently tackled a project that involved soldering copper-to-copper (CxC) with Plumbing elbows to ferrules, and I wanted to share some insights. The key is to ensure a clean, oxide-free surface for a strong solder joint. I started by thoroughly cleaning the pipes and ferrules, then applied flux evenly. When heating, I aimed for a consistent temperature around the joint, allowing the solder to flow smoothly into the gap.
Remember, practice makes perfect, and safety is paramount. Always wear protective gear and work in a well-ventilated area.

It sounds like you’re aware of the challenges when soldering different materials together. For cxc elbows and ss ferrules, it’s indeed crucial to manage the heat distribution due to the differing thermal conductivities. Your approach to solder the copper sleeve first is correct. Focus the heat on the copper, allowing it to draw the solder into the joint, and then proceed with the stainless steel ferrule. Remember to use a flux suitable for both copper and stainless steel to ensure a clean, solid joint. Good luck with your soldering!

[Yummyrum]

Made a bad mistake getting cxc rather then cxs elbows. Tomorrow I am starting to soldering these together. Since I am glueing 3 pieces together that are made from 2 different materials I see a problem. Just wanted to check in and see if I am stumbling in the right direction. I plan on soldering the copper sleeve inside the elbow then the soldering the ss ferrule by applying heat mainly to the ferrule. Or is this ass backwards?
Thank you for your time,
Tōtō
I recently tackled a project that involved soldering copper-to-copper (CxC) with Plumbing elbows to ferrules, and I wanted to share some insights. The key is to ensure a clean, oxide-free surface for a strong solder joint. I started by thoroughly cleaning the pipes and ferrules, then applied flux evenly. When heating, I aimed for a consistent temperature around the joint, allowing the solder to flow smoothly into the gap.
Remember, practice makes perfect, and safety is paramount. Always wear protective gear and work in a well-ventilated area.

It sounds like you’re aware of the challenges when soldering different materials together. For cxc elbows and ss ferrules, it’s indeed crucial to manage the heat distribution due to the differing thermal conductivities. Your approach to solder the copper sleeve first is correct. Focus the heat on the copper, allowing it to draw the solder into the joint, and then proceed with the stainless steel ferrule. Remember to use a flux suitable for both copper and stainless steel to ensure a clean, solid joint. Good luck with your soldering!

Dradas , you seem to be one of a few that do it like me ….. and for the same logical reason .
There seems to be a lot of folk that put the heat into the SS . …. which makes no sense .
The heat travels slowly through the SS .Super hot where the flame is and slowly reaches the copper where it is quickly conducted away . If the copper piece is much larger than then SS ferrule then it becomes a loosing battle . The copper /SS junction really struggles to get hot enough to melt the solder as the Copper just sucks the heat away while the SS where the heat is being put in is over cooked .

The Copper is where the heat should be applied . It will quickly and more evenly spread around until it reaches the SS . The SS will not conduct the heat as quickly so the temp of the Copper and SS are closer in temp and the solder bond made and cooled more evenly resulting in a better and stronger joint .