sweetfeed whisky

[Tokoroa_Shiner]

If you mash in your fermenter and ferment on the grain. You don't need a big pot for mashing.

[Tokoroa_Shiner]

An aluminium pot is not good for mashing as the acidic environment needed for mashing will cause it to pit. Heat will make it happen faster.

[W Pappy]

On grains don't use yeast nutrient, you will end up with blue likker that smells like ammonia it will happen at some point
trust me.Lesson learnt on my own, aluminum well that's another story. I have used it will it kill ya no well not real quick Tokora is rite
don't waste ya time it will pit all to shit.Do some readin an come back an tell us what you found for mashin in it's all here friend.

[jmashspirits14]

I dont use nutrients when fermenting an all grain with enzymes but I do use nutrients in high sugar corn wash. AGs I remove all the grain before pitching yeast but a corn wash I leave the grain in for flavor since the grain in a wash isnt cooked as much as an all grain with enzymes/malt. I use both and alternate. Ill use liquid enzymes one time and corn or 6 row barely malt the next. Large stainless stock pots are big money. $150 to me for a pot is big money. I must admit there is more info here than in any other one place on the net.

[Bigbob]

You don't need nutrients in a sweet feed wash. The grain has plenty of nutrients in it self.

[W Pappy]

You don't need nutrients in a sweet feed wash. The grain has plenty of nutrients in it self.

The problem most of the time is people just toss hot water in on their sugarhead's and don't aerate.
They get a really slow start and slow ferment so they figure must not be enough nutrient so next time they throw
nutrient in.Ag or grain sugarhead's don't need yeast nutrient.And I would only use tomato paste if I had to.

[jmashspirits14]

I always aerate even if I don't bring to my water to a boil. I pour the wash back and forth 10 to 12 times before pitching yeast. I never use nutrients in enzyme mash, I was using nutrients in my grain sugar washes but I did not use any in the sweetfeed wash. I will not use nutrients on grain washes any more however I did read that nutrients should always be used in high sugar washes. I always use yeast nutrient in wines for brandy. I have noticed that using nutrients the wash ferments much faster and sometimes I even get a 0.992 FG. Has anyone ever got FGs that low. I thought the gravity of pure water was 1.000 so how can I be getting below 0.999 FGs?

[1965 wite]

some of mine have finished below 1.00. or at least thats what the hydrometer said at the time. couldn't tell you why, but ive never added nutrients to ujssm or sweetfeed.

[jmashspirits14]

I usually use nutrients in all sugar washes but I read its not needed with sweetfeed because the molasses and the 3 types if grain provides enough nutrients for the yeast. I am a believer in nutrients, sugar alone isnt enough to keep the yeasties happy and if they arent happy they puke and crap in your washes. I know this, when I use nutrients my sugar washes ferment alot faster and much more vigorously. Not using nutes ive had washes take 3-4 weeks to ferment, using them my washes finish in 8-12 days and I get a much lower final gravity so I know they do work. I dont want to upset anyone but I read that dryed fruit or tomato paste doesnt provide all the nitrogen, b vitamins, amino acids, sterols, and fatty acids that yeast require to mutiply and be healthy for good clean fermentation.

[W Pappy]

Yeast nutrient should only be used in high sugar washes that is correct. But you are making a grain sugarhead not just a sugar wash.
It will get plenty of nutrients from the grain.Your best likker will come from a slower ferment from non stressed yeast.
Hell I have done plenty of ferments that took 3 days to finish.I can tell ya it was NOT the best whiskey I have made.
Keep your temps rite aerate and hydrate your yeast before pitching, and don't shoot for a high abv 8% 10% in my opinion is the best.
But hey I could be wrong on all the above.

[Antler24]

That all said, I think I would be hard pressed to add molasses to what could be a really good whiskey recipe. But if you really like rumskey, go for it. If you do it, let us know how it turns out.

I don't think he meant he would add molasses. Most sweetfeed already has molasses doesn't it?

I was suggesting that he make his own mix of grains and then add the molasses to the wort before fermenting. To get good conversion on the grains, they should be milled. Two problems with a bag of pre-mixed SF - it contains mostly whole grains which would need to be milled and second it contains molasses which would gum up the mill.

Ok I get ya, I was reading but not thinking again lol

[Bigbob]

I'm running a wash tomorrow that I started on the 31st of January. Let them do their thing, don't poke at em and they'll treat you right. By the by my ending SG was .995.

[Antler24]

Everyone doing the sweetfeed do you reuse most of the grain for the next run same as ujsm?

[FullySilenced]

I do but... Next run is different. So if you like the first run. Start over to keep the recipe the same till you learn to run it well...

[Antler24]

I do but... Next run is different. So if you like the first run. Start over to keep the recipe the same till you learn to run it well...

I like the idea of fermenting through generations but the only feed store in the area doesn't stock sweetfeed, but the sell the three grains seperate, by the sack only. So I'd need to buy 150lb at a time. Fermenting in generations I'd assume it would take a very long time to go through 150lb of sweetfeed.

[jmashspirits14]

How many generations can a person go through before the grain is no longer suitable?

[SassyFrass]

I do but... Next run is different. So if you like the first run. Start over to keep the recipe the same till you learn to run it well...

I like the idea of fermenting through generations but the only feed store in the area doesn't stock sweetfeed, but the sell the three grains seperate, by the sack only. So I'd need to buy 150lb at a time. Fermenting in generations I'd assume it would take a very long time to go through 150lb of sweetfeed.

You don't need to mix all of the 150 lbs at one time. Only mix what you are gonna ferment and run.
3 separate bins for each of your grains, plus another for your molasses.
This gives you an opportunity to try some different grain bills for quite a few different mashes and washes.
You can also try sprouting some of the grains.
All kinds of stuff you can do with 3 different grains. Limited only by your imagination.
Just make sure your storage bins are critter proof. And same for your molasses bin.

Have fun

[Antler24]

Sounds good. I have a 9-10 gallon open top barrel that seals air tight. How long do you figure the uncracked grains could last in a sealed container?

[Truckinbutch]

Sounds good. I have a 9-10 gallon open top barrel that seals air tight. How long do you figure the uncracked grains could last in a sealed container?

Pitch some dry ice on top of the grain and let it melt then carefully seal the bin . That will purge the oxygen and kill any critters . Keep it cool and I'd have no worries on going a year or more . When you open it to take out grain add more dry ice .

[Bigbob]

Just finished first run of my wash, got 2qts at 55% (110proof). My personal best! Will do the second half tommorow. For those that don't know, I run a 21/2 alembic,so a 5 gal wash gets split into two runs.

[S-Cackalacky]

Most 50 lb bags of grain will fit into two 5 gallon HDPE buckets and they stack nicely.

[SassyFrass]

Sounds good. I have a 9-10 gallon open top barrel that seals air tight. How long do you figure the uncracked grains could last in a sealed container?

Pitch some dry ice on top of the grain and let it melt then carefully seal the bin . That will purge the oxygen and kill any critters . Keep it cool and I'd have no worries on going a year or more . When you open it to take out grain add more dry ice .

I've never used dry ice, so I can't comment on that.
I was thinking some 5 gal buckets with lids, a couple buckets per 50 lb bag. I was also thinking storing them separate, so if you wanted to do a corn heavy mash one time, a barley heavy mash another...etc...etc...
I feed stock every day, so I keep quite a bit on hand, and I'm lucky about the feed store too. 150 lbs around here don't last long. I usually buy a ton at a time, for feed.
Good luck with it.

[1965 wite]

i replace eight cups of wet/spent SF grain on each 16 gal ferment every time i regenerate. i don't measure off weight but volumn as wet grain will be heavier than dry. seems to work for me. I have also been throwing a cup of crushed oyster shells in with it to help balance out the PH.

[jmashspirits14]

Very interesting, I use citric acid to adjust ph in the rare occation it needs it. Its cheap, easy, and works.

[S-Cackalacky]

Very interesting, I use citric acid to adjust ph in the rare occation it needs it. Its cheap, easy, and works.

Over a few generations it will probably go acidic on it's own. The only acid adjustment you should be doing is for the first ferment - if it needs it.

[Hound Dog]

I thought the oyster shells were to keep it from getting too acidic. The citric acid was to make it more.

I have been wanting to try the shells in washes as many say they are great. I usually just use calcium carbonate that I got from Duda Diesel.

[1965 wite]

the shells are a source of calcium to lower acidity. My washes last year would slow to a crawl and start tasting funky around generation 4-6. Too hot outside and too acidic. TP did a experiment with vinegar(2.5-3ph) and oyster shells. the shells appeared to dissolve to the point of 5.5ph then stop dissolving. he tested the solution of shells/vinegar weeks later and it was still at 5.5ph. If his theory is right it is a natural, organic form of calcium that releases just enough calcium to balance out the PH. I was never sure how much Calcium Carbonate to add in the chemical form plus it was expensive. You can buy a ten pound bag of clean/sterile/crushed oyster shells for about $4.00.

[Truckinbutch]

the shells are a source of calcium to lower acidity. My washes last year would slow to a crawl and start tasting funky around generation 4-6. Too hot outside and too acidic. TP did a experiment with vinegar(2.5-3ph) and oyster shells. the shells appeared to dissolve to the point of 5.5ph then stop dissolving. he tested the solution of shells/vinegar weeks later and it was still at 5.5ph. If his theory is right it is a natural, organic form of calcium that releases just enough calcium to balance out the PH. I was never sure how much Calcium Carbonate to add in the chemical form plus it was expensive. You can buy a ten pound bag of clean/sterile/crushed oyster shells for about $4.00.

50# bag for under $10 at TS . Just got one .

[S-Cackalacky]

Oyster shells and other sea shells are mostly calcium carbonate.

There seems to be some confusion (or misstatements). A couple of people have said to add calcium (calcium carbonate) to lower the PH. Calcium Carbonate RAISES the PH. The process of fermentation and the addition of backset will make the wash more acidic (lower PH). Something like lemon juice or citric acid also LOWER the PH (more acidic). You would normally add lemon juice or citric acid in the beginning if the PH is too high - 6.0 or greater.

[jmashspirits14]

Just like with my bonsai trees soil and watering, the lower the ph the more acidic it is the higher the ph the more alkaline it is. Neutral is about 6.5-7 ph. I also thought the shells were to raise the alkilinity.