Home Distiller

It is important that any heater control you use doesn't contribute to
this, because one boiler on its own can have as large an effect as 100
other devices. Power companies are now actively searching for large
sources of interference − and a poorly controlled boiler would be a
large source. DO NOT attempt to control a large power heater element
with an ordinary light dimmer, no matter what its rating. Dimmers rely
on phase switching and not only introduce direct currents into the
neutral line, they also introduce multiple harmonics of the basic power
supply frequency. Both these effects can damage the power supply system.
Even switching a heavy load on and off rapidly without sophisticated
phase control can cause damage. For this reason, don’t use the old
method of using a diode to halve the power delivered to the boiler.
It will interfere with the power supply and the power company will come
looking for you.
-The Compleat Distiller, Pg. 48

AJ Cotton wrote:

It For this reason, don’t use the old
method of using a diode to halve the power delivered to the boiler.
It will interfere with the power supply and the power company will come
looking for you.

show them ya welder in the shed .they make meters have mentals



I'm no electrical engineer, does Pint's controller have this problem?

Pamulli wrote:Since I have to order a new Pot I was thinking it would be nice to have an on off switch too so that I don't have to unplug it to turn it off. For the PSR-25 build, can I just put a small toggle switch between the PSR-25 and the POT or is there a better way to do that?

Thanks,

snideman wrote:

Pamulli wrote:Since I have to order a new Pot I was thinking it would be nice to have an on off switch too so that I don't have to unplug it to turn it off. For the PSR-25 build, can I just put a small toggle switch between the PSR-25 and the POT or is there a better way to do that?

Thanks,

You need the DPDT circuit breaker before the PSR-25 rated at least 25a in your case, since you are planning to use your 4500w element. 4500/230=19.6a at full power. A simple toggle will not suffice. Your current draw is too high. They make really cool din mount cb's for this purpose.

So I can't break the line between the Pot and the PSR-25? It seems like that should work since you would be breaking the circuit?

snideman wrote:Ya know Pamulli, I haven't started mine yet, but a couple a posts ago I put a schematic up as to how I intend to do it.
Just breaking the circuit isn't going to cut power to the PSR-25. Them there are still hot wires both to the POT and the load terminals, not to forget the hot that bypasses the PSR-25 direct to the element.
You are correct that a toggle will break the circuit and render it useless for control of the element but dangerous power will still be present at those 3 locations, unless you unplug it, then what use is the switch anyways?

Pamulli wrote:I've already spent WAY more than I planned on this controller.

Odessit wrote:I use pressostat for heating control. I have two levels of power - surplus and insufficient. When pressure less than tuned settings, surplus power uses, when pressure becomes more than setting, power goes down to insufficient. Setting is 3000 Pa, deviation +-200 Pa. I use pressostat from a washing-machine, it costs 10-12 $ USA.

I use also variant of pressure stabilization - PWM regulator with the analog pressductor MPX5010. This variant gives less deviation.

Video of PWM tuning here.
Video of using test-version here.

snideman wrote:Don't know about you all but i'd rather have a full range of power control. Not surplus and inefficient power. Besides why would you want "insufficient power" that would mean you'd sit there all day waiting for a boil. "Surplus" power would mean you schmear everything. That would be a waste of time and effort.

Pamulli wrote:

rad14701 wrote: The rest of the circuit is just as it was for the original dimmer... The resistor goes between MT2 output of the high power triac and the input side (MT1) of the dimmers quadrac... The output side of the dimmer (MT2 of the quadrac) goes to the Gate of the high power triac...

Rad,
Based on your previous post I would think the diagram should look like the below image, but that's different than what Bob did so I'm not really sure if this is right? You also mentioned in a PM that you usually connect the outer and inner Pot connections with the Capacitor and that is also different than what Bob did and different than my diagram? If anyone can provide some guidance here, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

The attachment Switch Diagram-Rad.jpg is no longer available

Gr8brewer wrote: Two Questions: Almost ready to solder my connections in. This is my very first project of this kind and can't wait to post up some photos.

1. like snuffys controller, I have installed a voltmeter ammeter where in this diagram do I connect them.
2. I have white and red hot wires for my 240v system they both get connected to MT1 on the power triac. I cant imagine where else would go but i suppose i need to ask a stupid question.

Thanks,
M

Pamulli wrote: I am glad to FINALLY say I have a fully functional controller built on the PSR-25. I got it put together yesterday and confirmed it turned all the way up and I could turn it all the way down to the point where it seemed to be off. I'll take some pictures and post the build with parts on here. Now for a couple of cleaning runs....

Pamulli wrote:

Gr8brewer wrote: Two Questions: Almost ready to solder my connections in. This is my very first project of this kind and can't wait to post up some photos.

1. like snuffys controller, I have installed a voltmeter ammeter where in this diagram do I connect them.
2. I have white and red hot wires for my 240v system they both get connected to MT1 on the power triac. I cant imagine where else would go but i suppose i need to ask a stupid question.

Thanks,
M

You only connect one hot to MT1 on the power triac. The other hot bypasses the controller and goes straight to the element. As for the voltmeter someone else would have to answer that.
I also should note that I abandoned this setup in favor of the PSR-25. I got this built according to the diagram, but mine didn't work. It could have just been a bad chip since from what I can tell the diagram is accurate.

I am glad to FINALLY say I have a fully functional controller built on the PSR-25. I got it put together yesterday and confirmed it turned all the way up and I could turn it all the way down to the point where it seemed to be off. I'll take some pictures and post the build with parts on here. Now for a couple of cleaning runs....

Gr8brewer wrote:does the psr-25 mearly replace the dimmer chip?

Gr8brewer wrote:So if I'm understanding correctly it will always have voltage to the element therefore will be producing heat while plugged in?