Home Distiller

Pamulli wrote:OK so here are the parts list for my PSR-25 based controller and pics. I got everything except the on/off switch from Newark since Mouser doesn't carry the PSR-25 and didn't have the Pot I wanted. You can see how it's wired in Snideman's previous post. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 0#p6842835" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

PSR-25 SSR - Newark # 97K7822 $44.65 http://www.newark.com/united-automation ... tt=97K7822" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Honeywell 2W 250Kohm Pot - Newark # 04F8770 $6.61 http://www.newark.com/honeywell-s-c-cla ... tt=04F8770" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow (Note that the picture on Newark is wrong, but you can see an accurate picture by clicking on the data sheet info)
Big Heat sink - Newark #93K7581 $18.29 http://www.newark.com/crydom/he-54/rela ... tt=93K7581" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow There is some debate whether one this big is really needed, but since the documentation on the PSR-25 makes it sound like you need a good one, I didn't want to chance it.

That's all that is absolutely required however I added a few parts.
Knob for Pot with 1-10 markings - Newark #94F9955 $7.25 http://www.newark.com/tyco-electronics- ... tt=94F9955" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Leviton 30Amp Double Pole AC Switch from HD $10 Note that a 20amp off the shelf AC switch isn't big enough since most are actually rated around 16amps max and with a 4500w element you are around 19amps.

Here are the pictures of the final build.

IMG_0736.JPG

IMG_0738.JPG

It's in a plastic box since I couldn't find a metal junction box big enough for that heatsink, but I'm fine with that. As you can see I added an off the shelf AC switch so I can cut the power without unplugging.

I just did a cleaning run with plain water and it worked great. Brought about 5gal to a boil in 25 minutes and I could easily back it down below boiling. Now I need to do another cleaning run with some actual alcohol.

Overall I'm very happy with the final product although this took WAY too long and ended up costing a lot more than I had planned. The PSR-25 build is a whole lot easier than the other builds in this thread and there is a lot less you have to understand to get it working. I would definitely recommend this to anyone who is like me and has very little knowledge of electrical circuits and diagrams.

Thanks to everyone on this forum that answered all my newbie questions over and over again.

rad14701 wrote:Nice setup, Pamulli... What would you estimate the total build to be...??? Without the failed attempts, of course... Looks like roughly $100.00 by my calculations...

crazyk78 wrote:Hi Pamulli, HD? sorry for my ignorance, but is that an abbreviation of anything?

Cheers

maheel wrote:thanks i will try it with the element in my current boiler and a light bulb. i wired it up to a double power point so i can just "plug" both in.

the only light bulb i have is 25w thats why i went and got the halogen

it had the same effect of small adjustment range (turning) on just running the 25w but i assumed that was just the 25w issue?

yes i have the triac on a alloy heatsink (but may need a bigger one) and will mointor temp

intend (maybe) to use a CPU power supply to house so it has the fan to assist in cooling

one other Question....
when soldering up the parts do any have a "right direction" eg the Resistor does it need to be "the right way round"
my Diak DB3 has a silver band on one end does that need to be in a certain direction (band towards element?)

as i just copied you picture..... but it seems to "work"

either way it was $10 of fun

MuleKicker wrote:Sure is a fancy box brewer. Nice work. I bet if you check out the data sheet on the specific gauges you got, you will get yer answer. Google the names, and most places that sell them will offer the data sheet.

MuleKicker wrote:Alot of those ammeters for high current are inductive, if I remember? Maybe im wrong, but i cant see 25-30A running straight through one of them little meters.

Gr8brewer wrote:ok going to scratch the voltage ammeter. perhaps a 2 din thermocouple readouts.....

crazyk78 wrote:If I can't get my hands on a 2W 250Kohm Pot can I use this one 0.5W 250Kohm Pot? http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Also for those of you who have used these, what is the resolution on them? ie does a small adjustment on the pot have large effect? ie is it very sensitive?
If so what is needed so that the sensitivity on the knob is not great.