Home Distiller

You could use it for sure, others do so with great success. I put a ferrule there allowing me to position the element lower

Sounds good I might check out the welding spuds .

I can't seem to find any nps welding spuds

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Fitting ... ding+spuds" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Diesel410 wrote:Hey yall I will be doing my electric conversion soon and I was wondering if this will work welded to the side of my keg? I will be using the same element jimbo uses
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.ph ... duct_id=57" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

That'll work fine, it's exactly what I used.

I have purchased and tried out these cheap scr controls from eBay , they come from China and Hong Kong , don't waste your time , I wasted mine . These controls overheat and supply full voltage when hot , I tried a massive heat sink and fan to cool but didn't help , I made sure the scr was rated at double the amperage draw from my element , but still it was too much for the cheap scr . So I threw out the junk and paid $110 for an industrial scr control , 4 times the size but works awesome.

Strongarmbrew wrote:I have purchased and tried out these cheap scr controls from eBay , they come from China and Hong Kong , don't waste your time , I wasted mine . These controls overheat and supply full voltage when hot , I tried a massive heat sink and fan to cool but didn't help , I made sure the scr was rated at double the amperage draw from my element , but still it was too much for the cheap scr . So I threw out the junk and paid $110 for an industrial scr control , 4 times the size but works awesome.

Not sure what you did, or how you wired it, but I use the 10,000W ones to drive 5500W elements. I have 2 driving 2 elements, and they barely get warm to the touch. Been using them for MANY DOZENS of runs with no issue, and no voltage oddities, as have many many other folks on here. Are they high quality? Fuck no, they are cheap shit. But they run cool and reliably. Im as surprised as anyone.

Anyone know what happens if you use the wrong value pot? A 250k instead of a 500k?

Maybe that was my issue, I didn't use the 10,000 watt units, they were 4000 watt units rated for 240 volts , I had 2 of them and I had each one running a 2000Watt 240 volt element, I wired them correctly because they did work, after a few minutes they started to get hot and supplied full voltage, I had them connected to 2 volt meters, I guess the lower wattage units were not up to the task. They looked to be from the same manufacturer as yours, green connector block and the aluminum shield with holes in it, potentiometer on the side. should have gone with the 10,000 watt units I guess, would have thought going 50% below the spec rating would have been fine, that is Chinese product for ya.

100% margin should be ok but no guarantees with the poor quality of these. The 4000w ones might just be rubbish? Dunno but sounds like you picked up a good product afterwards that I'm sure you'll be happy with.

40 amp ssr should be just fine with a 470-500k pot.

Hours upon hours of dependable service life.

That's what I use.

Scribbler wrote:Anyone know what happens if you use the wrong value pot? A 250k instead of a 500k?

Nothing happens control wise. As I recall you'll simply have full current going to your element with zero ability to regulate input.

Quick question for you guys who had a nut/coupler welded on to your keg to screw the heating element in to.. how much did the shop charge for the 1 1/4 hole + welding the coupling on?

Thanks, BasementBrewer

i did my own, first time i ever welded SS and made an absolute cock up of the whole shittaroo.
it took a half hour. should have taken 5 minutes. If they were looking for more than the shop minimum charge, or a case of beer or so...i'd be making a few more visits until i found a normal person.

or in plain english, 20 bucks would be fair value, 50 if you don't want to shop around. 90 if you want it done and need to kick a few dirt lumps, 100 is just plain greedy. IMHO.

it is solderable, by the way.

HDNB wrote:or in plain english, 20 bucks would be fair value, 50 if you don't want to shop around. 90 if you want it done and need to kick a few dirt lumps, 100 is just plain greedy. IMHO.

it is solderable, by the way.

That was kind of my thoughts HDNB. Im away from home or I would have done it myself in my shop. Found a welder about 10 min away from me and took it to him. Said he didn't give any price quotes until he saw the project. I figured for a professional to cut a hole and weld the coupling on it would be a 20 min job, tops. Was thinking 30 bucks would be worth his time.. He says he will see how long it takes him and go from there...Guy was incredibly rude and thought he was really somethin'. I come back the next day and he's tellin me it took an hour and half for the job, and oh by the way he charges 95 an hour... so by his math that $142.50 Wasn't much i could do at this point besides reach for my wallet.. Wont be taking anything back there and i let anybody thinking of heading there to turn the other direction.

BasementBrewer wrote:That was kind of my thoughts HDNB. Im away from home or I would have done it myself in my shop. Found a welder about 10 min away from me and took it to him. Said he didn't give any price quotes until he saw the project. I figured for a professional to cut a hole and weld the coupling on it would be a 20 min job, tops. Was thinking 30 bucks would be worth his time.. He says he will see how long it takes him and go from there...Guy was incredibly rude and thought he was really somethin'. I come back the next day and he's tellin me it took an hour and half for the job, and oh by the way he charges 95 an hour... so by his math that $142.50 Wasn't much i could do at this point besides reach for my wallet.. Wont be taking anything back there and i let anybody thinking of heading there to turn the other direction.

That sucks, but at last you have it done now. Digging around Criagslist helps, I found a guy who wanted $25, but I had already cut the hole myself. He felt bad charging so much just for welding the nut on, so he built me a stand. I'll be going back to him soon with my spare keg to get fill/drain holes added.

The guy probably got a bill for $140 that morning....

Could use a weldless bulk head fitting that is set up with a 2" Ferrule.

I used a 1" half coupling, easy to install but lacks versatility in what I want to do know. I want to put a screen over my element so I can distill on the grain without burning the element. If I had used tri-clamps and made it easy to remove I would have been able to attach a screen. My current problem is the element goes over 1/2 the diameter of the keg so I can't just slide it on, plus with the 1" coupling a screen will not slide over the element and later attach to the coupling.

Bushman wrote:I used a 1" half coupling, easy to install but lacks versatility in what I want to do know. I want to put a screen over my element so I can distill on the grain without burning the element. If I had used tri-clamps and made it easy to remove I would have been able to attach a screen. My current problem is the element goes over 1/2 the diameter of the keg so I can't just slide it on, plus with the 1" coupling a screen will not slide over the element and later attach to the coupling.

I have been thinking about that project. I think a 3" ferrule on your kettle will allow for the entire element /screen assembly to be inserted.

I am waiting until spring as I have the 1" welded on and will have to change it out. I thought 2" is plenty as the element is just under 1.5 in. Diameter.

Bushman wrote:I am waiting until spring as I have the 1" welded on and will have to change it out. I thought 2" is plenty as the element is just under 1.5 in. Diameter.

I was thinking that the screen would create some extra girth, so a 3" ferrule would allow for a good working surface with which to secure the screen and have adequate clearance,,if you see my meaning? Maybe the 3" is too much? But the cost is really negligible.
I assume the screen would need to be removable for service etc?

This is what I was sorta thinkin.

Great minds think alike. Probably cheaper your way I was just thinking about reducing it where the element reduces then screwing into threaded ferrule. I was also thinking the element would thread into a hole with threads in the ferrule cover and that looks like what you have on your drawing.

This is the screen material that we typically use.

Can't recall how small the holes are but they look to be just a bit less than 1 mm? Maybe .07 mm?

Bushman do you think this hole size will allow for solids to still enter and burn?

Trying to use some cut and paste to mock up an approximation.

Clearly the depth of field for the screen hole size is not to scale in relation to the rest of the mock up

LWTCS, IMO I think that screen should work perfect. I doubt many solids would be able to pass through a pencil lead sized hole but it still allows the liquid to pass freely.

BB

Just finished reading this thread. Only took a week! Lol
Planning on having my electrician buddy check all my work when I get around to it but as far as buying parts and pieces... If I plan to use the neutral do I need a 4 prong outlet/plug? Or do neutral and ground tie into the same screw at the wall?
I Didn't see anywhere in the thread about wiring the neutral to the plug itself.

gflower1 wrote:Just finished reading this thread. Only took a week! Lol
Planning on having my electrician buddy check all my work when I get around to it but as far as buying parts and pieces... If I plan to use the neutral do I need a 4 prong outlet/plug? Or do neutral and ground tie into the same screw at the wall?
I Didn't see anywhere in the thread about wiring the neutral to the plug itself.

The only time you need the neutral is if you are gonna have anything 110 in your controller. Neutral and ground should NEVER be tied together. If you don't need the neutral either use a 3 prong plug and outlet or if using an existing outlet cap and tape off the neutral in your controller box.
Disclaimer: I know just enuf about electric to be dangerous.

Thanks Jed. That's where I was heading with this. Not planning on using 110 but might as well buy it the first time and replace plugs rather than a whole run of wire.

This is an excellent thread. I read the whole thing from start to end and feel quite educated on multiple topics.

The one thing I could use some final clarification on is:

I have an SSR/pot type controller. I have a older house with a 3 wire dryer outlet. H1, H2, and a ground. I know it is not necessary (because I have read at least 20 times that it is not necessary) but I would like to add an analog Voltmeter and/or analog Ammeter. It seems that they work better than the digital combo units. I have gathered that the digital units burn out most the time if wired between the SSR and the element. I don't even want to mess with that. I understand how to wire up the analog meters, but through all the posts I wasn't able to glean if they work correctly installed between an ssr and the element. I have seen several diagrams where they are wired between an SCR and an element.

So the question is; will a analog voltmeter and/or ammeter work correctly installed between my SSR and the element? I am asking specifically about an SSR and I understand that the reading will only be a reference point and that a magic marker mark will give a similar reference point.

I have came this far and I know it's like rims on a dump truck, but I want to look at something move when I turn the doohickey.

I also get that I don't need both and it seems like for the guild that have them, it's divided. Some people like ammeters and some prefer voltmeters. Which one is more reliable?

I am looking for an answer like:

No meters (digital or analog) work correctly between an SSR and the element. They only work before the SSR.

Analog meters work fine after the SSR. Digital ones don't.

You have to install all meters before SSRs when using SSRs.

You should only use a voltmeter with SSRs.

You should only use an ammeter with SSRs.

You misread, and you can use any meter you want either digital or analog before or after the SSR. They work just fine.

Thanks for the help guys. I am on the home stretch.