Home Distiller

Big old pile of useful information...Saw some stuff I did right, did wrong and can do better next time...thx

This information is Awesome. I have been through it all over 7 times now!!
My advise to any novice or new person, read, read and read again. You will notice each time through you will understand more and more.

B

bitter wrote:This information is Awesome. I have been through it all over 7 times now!!
My advise to any novice or new person, read, read and read again. You will notice each time through you will understand more and more.

B

I'm still thrilled my little write up has been so useful to so many and always appreciate the nice comments even when fail to respond I do think reading it multiple times is helpful. I have read it so many times I'm beginning to feel that some day I may actually become a master.

cranky wrote:

bitter wrote:This information is Awesome. I have been through it all over 7 times now!!
My advise to any novice or new person, read, read and read again. You will notice each time through you will understand more and more.

B

I'm still thrilled my little write up has been so useful to so many and always appreciate the nice comments even when fail to respond I do think reading it multiple times is helpful. I have read it so many times I'm beginning to feel that some day I may actually become a master.

24 more posts and you are there!

HDNB wrote:
24 more posts and you are there!

I don't know, I still feel more like the eternal novice, however my latest builds and all the associated stuff that goes with it has certainly given me confidence in my abilities.
(now 23 )

Cranky you could put my message to newbies under your signature to help as well. It is at the top of the welcome center.
Ga Flatwoods

ga flatwoods wrote:Cranky you could put my message to newbies under your signature to help as well. It is at the top of the welcome center.
Ga Flatwoods

Yes, Please do.

Cranky
are you sure 23????

ga flatwoods wrote:Cranky you could put my message to newbies under your signature to help as well. It is at the top of the welcome center.
Ga Flatwoods

How's that Flatwoods? I saw that post the other day and finally managed to actually read it a little while ago. Nice post

bearriver wrote:Yes, Please do.

OK done.

likker liker wrote:Cranky
are you sure 23????

Nope Likker Liker looks like 22 now

I am a newbie, made mistake on posting day 1, now have gone through Crankies reading material, no offense taken, just great information. Thank you for taking the time

K2-61 wrote:I am a newbie, made mistake on posting day 1, now have gone through Crankies reading material, no offense taken, just great information. Thank you for taking the time

No sir, thank you for taking the time for yourself k2-61, time well spent on yourself!
Ga Flatwoods

Wise words, Flatwoods...

Thanks for the information.

Colorado_Kid wrote:Thanks for the information.

Thank you, always happy to hear from people this post helped.

Even if it's stuff you think you know it's nice to have it all collected for rereading.

Angel_Kefka wrote:Even if it's stuff you think you know it's nice to have it all collected for rereading.

It is, I even find myself going through it from time to time because it is a handy place to find all those links.

cranky wrote:
#6 use of small diameter tubing for a worm condenser. The absolute bare minimum size for a worm style condenser is 3/8 inch inside diameter. Even that is considered too small by many. 1/2 inch is better because it will allow air to go into the still while still allowing vapor to collapse on it's way out. They need room to pass each other or you run into problems and if your still pukes small diameter tubing will clog and cause pressure to build and blow the lid off and possibly cause a fire or injure you. Safety in this hobby is paramount. Nobody here wants to see you hurt and keeping this hobby safe keeps it moving in the right direction toward legalization.

This part confuses me. I wasn't aware that air went back into the still during operation. Is this exaggerated by running faster? Does it mean that you should have a larger diameter condenser if you were running 5500w as opposed to running 2500w? To stop it blocking up.

As the still comes to temperature, a lot of uncondensable gasses will evaporate first.
At this point the distiller will discover a slight draft and the charateristical smell of "green apples" (sort of).
Naturally hot gasses will expand and take more space, similar to a hot air balloon.
So there will be a very slight amount of overpressure within the still and through the condenser.
The ambient barometric pressure however, will try to equalize with the pressure from inside the still.
Furthermore...as the still comes into operation and temperatures allow ethanol to evaporate, other factors come into play.
The vapor takes up a certain amount of space inside the boiler and condenser.
Now as the vapor condenses on the cold walls of the productcondenser (no matter what type), it liquifies and takes up less space than in vaporform...thus a "gap" is created.
The ambient barometric pressure, will once again try to fill that "gap" and equalize the pressure.

Edit: And to answer you question...yes. Look at my aftercooler in this link: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 87&t=54834
The relatively small productpipe, is only adequate for cooling liquid in a LM construction. ( http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... r#p7322711)
For a VM or potstill setup, one would have to condense vapor and the small pipe wouldn't be sufficient.

Monkeyman88 wrote:

cranky wrote:
#6 use of small diameter tubing for a worm condenser. The absolute bare minimum size for a worm style condenser is 3/8 inch inside diameter. Even that is considered too small by many. 1/2 inch is better because it will allow air to go into the still while still allowing vapor to collapse on it's way out. They need room to pass each other or you run into problems and if your still pukes small diameter tubing will clog and cause pressure to build and blow the lid off and possibly cause a fire or injure you. Safety in this hobby is paramount. Nobody here wants to see you hurt and keeping this hobby safe keeps it moving in the right direction toward legalization.

This part confuses me. I wasn't aware that air went back into the still during operation. Is this exaggerated by running faster? Does it mean that you should have a larger diameter condenser if you were running 5500w as opposed to running 2500w? To stop it blocking up.

That particular bit has been an issue for others as well. I really over simplified it and should have said something like "to prevent over pressurizing" or something like that. Danespirit actually explained it very well.

A couple months ago I did write an improved version of that paragraph but don't know how to edit it at this point but the new improved version is this

#6 use of small diameter tubing for a worm condenser. The absolute bare minimum size for a worm style condenser is 3/8 inch inside diameter. Even that is considered too small by many. 1/2 inch is better to keep the boiler open to the atmosphere or you run into problems with pressure build up and if your still pukes small diameter tubing will clog and cause pressure to build up and blow the lid off and possibly cause a fire or injure you. This is also the reason the exit path of any condenser should always continually point down hill. This is one of the reasons I personally always recommend a liebig condenser, Flake stand/worm style condensers often have problems with high spots causing smearing and other problems. If you do use a worm condenser you need to make absolutely sure every bit of it goes down hill. Safety in this hobby is paramount. Nobody here wants to see you hurt and keeping this hobby safe keeps it moving in the right direction toward legalization.

cranky wrote:

Monkeyman88 wrote:

cranky wrote:
#6 use of small diameter tubing for a worm condenser. The absolute bare minimum size for a worm style condenser is 3/8 inch inside diameter. Even that is considered too small by many. 1/2 inch is better because it will allow air to go into the still while still allowing vapor to collapse on it's way out. They need room to pass each other or you run into problems and if your still pukes small diameter tubing will clog and cause pressure to build and blow the lid off and possibly cause a fire or injure you. Safety in this hobby is paramount. Nobody here wants to see you hurt and keeping this hobby safe keeps it moving in the right direction toward legalization.

This part confuses me. I wasn't aware that air went back into the still during operation. Is this exaggerated by running faster? Does it mean that you should have a larger diameter condenser if you were running 5500w as opposed to running 2500w? To stop it blocking up.

That particular bit has been an issue for others as well. I really over simplified it and should have said something like "to prevent over pressurizing" or something like that. Danespirit actually explained it very well.

A couple months ago I did write an improved version of that paragraph but don't know how to edit it at this point but the new improved version is this

#6 use of small diameter tubing for a worm condenser. The absolute bare minimum size for a worm style condenser is 3/8 inch inside diameter. Even that is considered too small by many. 1/2 inch is better to keep the boiler open to the atmosphere or you run into problems with pressure build up and if your still pukes small diameter tubing will clog and cause pressure to build up and blow the lid off and possibly cause a fire or injure you. This is also the reason the exit path of any condenser should always continually point down hill. This is one of the reasons I personally always recommend a liebig condenser, Flake stand/worm style condensers often have problems with high spots causing smearing and other problems. If you do use a worm condenser you need to make absolutely sure every bit of it goes down hill. Safety in this hobby is paramount. Nobody here wants to see you hurt and keeping this hobby safe keeps it moving in the right direction toward legalization.

Cranky, if you can no longer edit the post, ask a Mod to do it for you - maybe Bushman.

I'll do that this afternoon.

Ok. Thanks. That clears it up.

I keep coming back to this post for the links I need to find as its so much easier than searching all the individual post I got book marked.
thanks cranky
. JB

Well apparently some mod saw our conversation and fixed it. I got home this afternoon and sat here and typed a PM asking one to fix it then just after hitting send went back and looked and it was already corrected. So problem solved.

Prolly halfbaked. He's on top of this stuff.

It would be interesting if the OP always retained control. For example, builds change over the years while the OP gets locked. The OP is where the product lies. When the product changes or is improved, so could the OP be amended. I don't really want to search through user posts for updates from the OP, and mod's shouldn't have to either. Especially when the OP actually wants to do some of that work.

I understand keeping the continuity of a thread intact, and that is why the OP loses control after x amount of time. However by using amendments instead, that would allow for the thread to be updated even years later without losing any continuity.

One way that plays out in other forums is by reserving an optional editable post under the OP. As a common courtesy the user who posted the OP will include a change log when making any edits. XDA forums uses that system and it works very well in keeping the highest quality information accessible to the community. Another way would be to require mod permission after submitting the change. That way the moderators work load is reduced to a quick review, and both the parties share control.

I agree that this thread should be somewhat editable because with this subject especially things can change and evolve over time and rather than reading through multiple pages to see any additions or revisions. I've always looked at this thread as everyone's thread because so many people did so much to make this thread even possible.

Your being a lil too modest cranky.map makers don't build roads but they still deserve credit for helping wayward travelers safely find their way.
jb

thanks Cranky, You provided direction when I was directionless.

You don't know me, but when left directionless, I tend to meander aimlessly looking for direction
Bad things happen at times. If no direction is given with in a certain amount of time.
I start acting like "I got this" which can lead to the proverbial "here hold my beer"
And "watch this"
these are not good things

frodo wrote:thanks Cranky, You provided direction when I was directionless.

You don't know me, but when left directionless, I tend to meander aimlessly looking for direction
Bad things happen at times. If no direction is given with in a certain amount of time.
I start acting like "I got this" which can lead to the proverbial "here hold my beer"
And "watch this"
these are not good things

Which can also turn into a exploding garage......