popcorn2014 wrote:All of the cords are warm/hot. Even the permanently attached ones on the element.
They plug into a computer tower type plug. I thought that was a bit weird and didn’t really like it.
They are known as an IEC connector .Used a lot for electric kettles where the plugs , sockets and leads are rated at 10 amps .
Unfortunately they become the standard on computer equipment .These types are only rated at around 3 amps and explains why they get hot .
I have personal experience with this . I built a controller into an old PC power supply case .Ran fine for a long time but I knew it was running hot .
Eventually it melted and smoke come out
Baked socket.jpg
There is a lot of sense in NZchris suggesting using plugs sockets that are way higher current handling capacity than the required load .
Wait a damn minute. Are you telling me not only did I get screwed in the cords power but he made and sold me something potentially dangerous?
OtisT wrote:Do you know the gauge of the electrical wire used? Wire often has the gauge and both plugs and wire often have the V/A rating written on it. Otis
OtisT wrote:Do you know the gauge of the electrical wire used? Wire often has the gauge and both plugs and wire often have the V/A rating written on it. Otis
They all say 10 amps. 18 gauge
No wonder they got warm when plugged into 110VAC.
Your element was drawing (or trying to draw) 1600 W / 120 VAC = 13.3 amps.
But what you found out was that there was a voltage drop in your IEC cables such that your elements weren’t getting full voltage. As a result, you have power loss (significant too, I might add) in the cords. That’s a hazard with a fire waiting to happen.
ss
OtisT wrote:Do you know the gauge of the electrical wire used? Wire often has the gauge and both plugs and wire often have the V/A rating written on it. Otis
They all say 10 amps. 18 gauge
No wonder they got warm when plugged into 110VAC.
Your element was drawing (or trying to draw) 1600 W / 120 VAC = 13.3 amps.
But what you found out was that there was a voltage drop in you IEC cables such that your elements weren’t getting full voltage. As a result, you have power loss (significant too, I might add) in the cords. That’s a hazard with a fire waiting to happen.
ss
Well shit. That sucks. But I guess buying new adapter cords and a high grade extension cord still save me money on the big 220v set up.
Appreciate you guys continuing to check back and help.
Edit: Just bought two 15 amp 14 ga. Ones from amazon for $9 I’ll laugh if it’s plenty good after this. And smile I saved $450....
still_stirrin wrote:As a result, you have power loss (significant too, I might add) in the cords. That’s a hazard with a fire waiting to happen.
Hazard of a fire, not just with the cord wire being under sized, but also the wires in the wall all the way back to the breaker..
Your new cord is just on the border side providing you are not to far from the your plug-in.. anything over 15 feet is just about the limit on a 1600w draw.. 12 gauage is what is required..
Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "
still_stirrin wrote:As a result, you have power loss (significant too, I might add) in the cords. That’s a hazard with a fire waiting to happen.
Hazard of a fire, not just with the cord wire being under sized, but also the wires in the wall all the way back to the breaker..
Your new cord is just on the border side providing you are not to far from the your plug-in.. anything over 15 feet is just about the limit on a 1600w draw.. 12 gauage is what is required..
Mars
This is why I hate electricity. I can cancel the order and look for 12 ga? Or are you saying if I’m over 15 feet my EXTENSION CORD needs to be 12 ga?
How do I make it safe in the wall and back to the breaker??
Where are you getting 220VAC from? Dryer outlet, kitchen range outlet? Or, from the breaker panel from a 220 VAC breaker?
Your household wiring may become a concern depending on your plans. An electric dryer outlet is most likely a 30 amp 220 VAC circuit. Very possibly the kitchen range as well, although those are sometimes hard wired in place for installed appliances. If it is still a “moveable” electric range, it probably does have a 220 VAC outlet.
If you’re adding a breaker to the breaker panel, have your electrician set a 30 amp breaker and outlet for you. I would recommend a “twist lock” (Pass & Seymore) receptacle. Those are usually 4 wire in the US. You could also use a dryer cord (4 wire) from the big box store. It’ll be a little cheaper. But probably still 8 gage (stranded) wire.
If you’re going to upscale your element to 220VAC, then you’ll need to make sure the rest of your wiring is capable of that power rating as well. A 5.5kW 220/240 VAC element will draw 25 amps under full load. You won’t need all that power throughout the run, but you’ll use it to bring the wash up to boil.
ss
NZChris wrote:I hope you're not paying $449.00 for their controller.
popcorn2014 wrote:Controller is $380, why?
The more I see of Milehigh stuff the less I like the prices or the products in general.
Still dragon will sell you a DIY controller kit for $49.01
I have no interest in Still Dragon or their products ....I just see better value there sometimes. https://www.stilldragon.com.au/diy-controller-kit/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Hmm. Well we’re only in this house for another two months. Not sure what the next place will have for amps. This is.... a headache. Now it sounds like it’s not even safe to run my 110v with the proper cords because of something in the walls?
I don’t live in Australia. Nor do I feel safe enough to wire my own anything. I’ll solder and work with metal all day but as I mentioned I hate electricity.
popcorn2014 wrote:Or are you saying if I’m over 15 feet my EXTENSION CORD needs to be 12 ga?
If you are going to use the120v 1600w element, you need the very least a 12 ga wire, no matter what you are using..
How do I make it safe in the wall and back to the breaker??
You make it safe by checking the wire gauage at the plug.. a house is normal wired with 12 ga and 14 ga.. 12 ga is used in the kitcken because most household item used are less than 1200w draw, and 14 ga for the bedroom room and lights because lights and other items plug in those rooms draw less that 500w..
To check the wire ga at a plug, remove the cap and look inside.. there is a visible size different between a 12 ga and 14 ga.. the smaller the number the larger the wire is.. so 8 ga wire is larger than a 12 ga wire and so on..
Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "
Well popcorn.. has there been an improvement with using the 14 ga extension cord..
Mars
" I know quite certainly that I myself have no special talent. Curiosity, Obsession and dogged endurance, combined with self-criticism, have brought me to my knowledge and understanding "
StillerBoy wrote:Well popcorn.. has there been an improvement with using the 14 ga extension cord..
Mars
Forgot I had one for my welder the whole time. Gave it a try, along with my new 15a adapter cords, but there was no noticeable difference. Probably going to buy the 220v element and controller next paycheck.
After reading this thread, I have noticed there is one thing that I didn’t see mentioned here. Most electrical circuits are actually rated for 80% of rated amps when it is a constant load. A 30Amp dryer circuit doesn’t normally draw 30amps. It draws probably 24amps or less. The same applies for 50amp electric ranges and really any circuit in your home. The full amp rating is for short term use. Will a 30 amp load trip a 30 amp breaker? Maybe, maybe not. A 33amp load might even hold for several seconds. But the breakers bi-metal strip or tripping mechanism will get too hot and give it up. This is also hard on the breaker and it may become overly sensitive and cause nuisance tripping on lighter loads too. At least it errs on the side of caution.
My advise on using existing home circuits is to first kill the power to the circuits used. Then remove receptacle and check the connections to make sure they are sound. The same goes for the wiring in the breaker panel (including the neutral wire in 120v circuits). The neutral is usually the one to burn up. Also make sure the receptacle used is not old and sloppy.
If you have a bad connection, it will developer heat and deteriorate and get even worse than it was. Your breaker doesn’t know you have a bad connection. It just sees it as a load. <<<This is where fires start<<<<.
I’ve been an electrician by trade for 24 years, I’ve seen some scary stuff!
If you not 100% sure of your knowledge of electricity, then use or hire a licensed electrician to do your work.
50amp = 8 gauge wire
30Amp = 10
20amp = 12
15amp = 14
Breakers and receptacles should also match the wire.
If using a long cord, up the wire size to the next gauge up.
Factory extension cords have 15 amp ends.
All cords and cables have a grounding wire in them. Use it! Ground your equipment.
Don’t burn your house down, you’re already making flammables as it is.
popcorn2014 wrote:Probably going to buy the 220v element and controller next paycheck.
Getting a cheap multimeter is highly recommended also. To measure the true resistance of your heaters, and the voltage going out of your controller vs the voltage going in to your heater.
A multimeter is so cheap it is really no excuse not to have one. Go to your nearest car parts dealership.
There is a lot of sense in NZchris suggesting using plugs sockets that are way higher current handling capacity than the required load .
