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Closer!

I cleaned my boiler up inside and out for a trip to the welders tomorrow. I was happy to have that drain hole in it.
I hope to get it back this week.

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Thanks to everyone who posted and helped me out.

I am glad I have a drain on the bottom. Wheels would be great on a smooth surface but I will be in the gravel floor of a barn. So I kinda did it in a way that will work for me. who knows I may build another one after I get the hang of it. So now its waiting for my son to come out and wire my 220 and then I am off to the races.

Looks real nice!

My keg is currently with the welder waiting to see how much he wants for putting on a couple of ferrules. I'm still hesitating about a drain, I like to be able to run on gas for small runs and a drain on the bottom makes that a bit tricker.

Nice looking build. I can't wait to get my first test runs on electric done.

Well NormandyStill, if a bottom drain is a problem then consider a side drain.

TomKat, looks like your guy used MIG to weld on your parts. It isn't an issue so long as the keg (or at least the area being welded) was properly purged / back gassed. Have you looked inside to see if there's any sugaring? That would be billowy looking deposits opposite the weld location. I only ask as these should be cleaned off if they exist and kept an eye on as they will be a location where corrosion could occur. If your guy was good you should have no problems.

Zed255: I plan on running it a few times like this, and then I'll see about a side-drain. I'm putting a 4" port on the top for cleaning access so if I'm feeling to tired to lift, I can always siphon the contents out.

TK.. those welds need attention cause corrosion will occur if they are not passivated..

SS need to passivated where the welding was done, using a citric acid solution and a scrub pad, and will require to be done ever so often..

https://www.pureflowinc.com/wp-content/ ... vateSS.pdf

Mars

In my experience stainless will naturally passivate so long as the chromium and nickel haven't been cooked out and the weld area was properly shielded. Manual cleaning and treatment with a mild acid or an actual passivating product will expedite the process and make it more durable for sure, but a weld properly executed is not a problem. Contrary to popular belief stainless can be welded with almost any process, not just TIG. There's even gassless flux core MIG wire for stainless.

The welds on TomKat's boiler look typical of the MIG process and not badly done, though the heat affected zone is a little wide. If they were TIG welded I'd say they were over heated. In my humble opinion and already expressed is the importance of proper back purging and wether or not proper purging was done.

I wasn't able to see inside the connections but the one showing the ferrule looks like there is a bit of sugaring on the inside. If so you will want to sand it smooth and then passivate as stiller boy described. Just curious , did the welder purge the vessel while doing the welding?

I am not sure. They have been Iin business for over 50 years. They seem to be pretty knowledgeable.

Tom Kat wrote: ↑Sat Feb 06, 2021 7:40 pm I am not sure. They have been Iin business for over 50 years. They seem to be pretty knowledgeable.

Just look at the inside of the weld. If it has rough and grainy spots that raise up a bit from the smooth surface just polish it smooth and passivate afterwards.

Looking good
I like the garden hose fittings on your condenser
What size heating element are you going to use?

5500 watt. Luckily my son is an electrician. He will add a 30amp circuit and all wiring I need. I bought a cheap controller on Amazon

I have a good supply of rural water to use for cooling. I will need practice to set my flow right.

I fabricated a boiler elevation system today. The cost was very attractive.