I did it! I have officially started the journey.

[Not sure]

Nice work

[Mashable]

Today’s fit up is going well, the burr grinder bit worked well, nice fit. Now I need to size the 2” shell, point the inner tubes, and grind the outlet end. Also up next is the inlet and outlet cooling water ports, I’ve heard many have gotten excited and missed this step. Cheers for now.

Today’s fit up is going well...

[Not sure]

Today’s fit up is going well, the burr grinder bit worked well, nice fit. Now I need to size the 2” shell, point the inner tubes, and grind the outlet end. Also up next is the inlet and outlet cooling water ports, I’ve heard many have gotten excited and missed this step. Cheers for now.

B9C03933-8FAA-4F03-A79A-A041F59D4535.jpegToday’s fit up is going well...


4C486D3C-C602-4A37-9AE1-AD3249A16CA9.jpegEC264E7D-C2B3-4357-8E01-BFBA25B12DF7.jpeg642D578F-5C0F-49EC-A84B-540988B4E365.jpegFBA9D170-96A6-4092-9BFE-C995732AE357.jpegE023BEE9-5B24-463E-B382-15C3ED6577ED.jpeg

Very nice shotgun condenser I used the same wind chimes for the one I have

[Mashable]

Today’s fit up is going well, the burr grinder bit worked well, nice fit. Now I need to size the 2” shell, point the inner tubes, and grind the outlet end. Also up next is the inlet and outlet cooling water ports, I’ve heard many have gotten excited and missed this step. Cheers for now.

B9C03933-8FAA-4F03-A79A-A041F59D4535.jpegToday’s fit up is going well...


4C486D3C-C602-4A37-9AE1-AD3249A16CA9.jpegEC264E7D-C2B3-4357-8E01-BFBA25B12DF7.jpeg642D578F-5C0F-49EC-A84B-540988B4E365.jpegFBA9D170-96A6-4092-9BFE-C995732AE357.jpegE023BEE9-5B24-463E-B382-15C3ED6577ED.jpeg

Very nice shotgun condenser I used the same wind chimes for the one I have

I was going to attempt my own end plates and baffles, Twisted B’s chimes are just too sweet! Really a no brainer! Chimes for the win.

[Twisted Brick]

Glad to see they made it all the way to Toronto and beyond, Mashable! Looking good!

It's nice that the properly-spaced baffles act perfectly as a 'jig' to hold the vapor tubes properly aligned for soldering. The input endplate can then be perfectly adjusted to allow the optimal recess that Deplorable mentioned.

Quick tip: I pound my 1/8" solder flat and cut it lengthwise with tin snips to reduce the size since the amount of solder needed is miniscule. If you heat the tubes just below the plate the solder gets drawn into and around the flange gap in about half a second. All four tubes should take about 30 seconds total and you're done. Same when soldering the endplate into the shell.
.

Soldered endplate

[Mashable]

Lots of material removal, but it all fits up nice. Just waiting for the stay clean flux....

[Deplorable]

Are you planning to cut the ends of the vapor tubes flush the the face of the ferrule?
I didn't see a 2X1/2 inch reducer in your inventory. What do you have planned for the end of that shotty?

[Mashable]

Are you planning to cut the ends of the vapor tubes flush the the face of the ferrule?
I didn't see a 2X1/2 inch reducer in your inventory. What do you have planned for the end of that shotty?

The 2” x 1/2” reducer is on route from fleabay.

[Mashable]

Couple more progress pics. More copper! Got some 3” type m. Have not settled on my 3”- 2” reduction yet, cheapie tri clamp or go with a nice copper reducer and tri clamp ferrules. We know the answer. Copper fever!

[StillerBoy]

Mashable.. a word of caution on soldering the ss ferrule you have on hand.. those ferrules will be difficult to solder cause of their length.. they look as if they are the long one, if it were me doing it I would shorten then down by half at least, as you don't need more that 1/4" been soldered to the copper.. and much easier to solder without affecting the other area close by..

Matching the pieces is the easy part, soldering them in place will be the fun.. for soldering ss to copper, especially the ferrules, using a low flame/heat and take the time to warm it up to soldering temp..

A tip on holding a ferrule in place if the fit is on the lose side.. cut some fine copper wire and make some V pin, place 3 pin in position and then lightly press the ferrule in place..

Mars

Pin and ferrule ready for soldering

Gauge for cutting ferrule

[Mashable]

Mashable.. a word of caution on soldering the ss ferrule you have on hand.. those ferrules will be difficult to solder cause of their length.. they look as if they are the long one, if it were me doing it I would shorten then down by half at least, as you don't need more that 1/4" been soldered to the copper.. and much easier to solder without affecting the other area close by..

Matching the pieces is the easy part, soldering them in place will be the fun.. for soldering ss to copper, especially the ferrules, using a low flame/heat and take the time to warm it up to soldering temp..

A tip on holding a ferrule in place if the fit is on the lose side.. cut some fine copper wire and make some V pin, place 3 pin in position and then lightly press the ferrule in place..

Mars
Picture 0041.jpgDSC016731.jpg

Thanks for the tips! I was thinking about the collar length on the ferrules, I had ordered some extras and have a selection of long and shorts now, I had been wondering which would be the best.

[Twisted Brick]

Have not settled on my 3”- 2” reduction yet, cheapie tri clamp or go with a nice copper reducer and tri clamp ferrules. We know the answer. Copper fever!

Nice job so far! You're gonna have a masterpiece when you're finished (for the time being)

[tader]

Hi Mashable,
A couple of tips for your soldering journey. I recently finished my modular build and I learned a couple of things the hard way.
Patience! I used propane for my entire build. It takes a bit to heat things up.
I found after a couple of tries that the Bernzomatic TS8000 is a really good torch for this job.
Make sure all your pipe and ferrule cuts are square and make sure they are square before and during your soldering.
Make sure everything is super clean. Sand everything and wipe down really good with acetone before applying your flux.
When soldering on your ferrules take your time, be patient. Heat everything up as evenly as you can but don't get it too hot. I did it by heating,, removing the flame from the joint then touching the solder to the joint. Repeat frequently until the solder melts and is sucked into the joint. At that point is is a simple thing to work your way around the joint using the same method all the way around. It is important not to have the flame and the solder on the joint at the same time.
Clean your fresh solder job immediately, as soon as it cools. I used a hot soapy brush followed by an acetone wipe. That liquid acid flux is a bitch to clean out if it sits for any time. You will be glad you did this when it's time to do your cleaning runs.
Follow Twisted Bricks advice on how to solder your shotgun. I did and it went very smoothly, no leaks, first time.

[Mashable]

Hi Mashable,
A couple of tips for your soldering journey. I recently finished my modular build and I learned a couple of things the hard way.
Patience! I used propane for my entire build. It takes a bit to heat things up.
I found after a couple of tries that the Bernzomatic TS8000 is a really good torch for this job.
Make sure all your pipe and ferrule cuts are square and make sure they are square before and during your soldering.
Make sure everything is super clean. Sand everything and wipe down really good with acetone before applying your flux.
When soldering on your ferrules take your time, be patient. Heat everything up as evenly as you can but don't get it too hot. I did it by heating,, removing the flame from the joint then touching the solder to the joint. Repeat frequently until the solder melts and is sucked into the joint. At that point is is a simple thing to work your way around the joint using the same method all the way around. It is important not to have the flame and the solder on the joint at the same time.
Clean your fresh solder job immediately, as soon as it cools. I used a hot soapy brush followed by an acetone wipe. That liquid acid flux is a bitch to clean out if it sits for any time. You will be glad you did this when it's time to do your cleaning runs.
Follow Twisted Bricks advice on how to solder your shotgun. I did and it went very smoothly, no leaks, first time.

Appreciate the feedback, all very sound advice that I will employ. I have held silver brazing tickets in the past, along with several different pressure tickets for multiple weld processes and positions, hopefully this will serve me well on this journey. Ideally I’d tig (even copper to SS)weld everything, however I’m not in the shop and do not have the capability at home, so silver solder it is. It’s like baking cookies, follow the steps (recipe) the same every time, and you can generate consistent results. Cleanliness is godliness, good fit up, take your time, wet rags to manage heat, and slow consistent heat till melting point, then let physics do its work! Clean, clean, clean.

[tader]

Hi Mashable,
A couple of tips for your soldering journey. I recently finished my modular build and I learned a couple of things the hard way.
Patience! I used propane for my entire build. It takes a bit to heat things up.
I found after a couple of tries that the Bernzomatic TS8000 is a really good torch for this job.
Make sure all your pipe and ferrule cuts are square and make sure they are square before and during your soldering.
Make sure everything is super clean. Sand everything and wipe down really good with acetone before applying your flux.
When soldering on your ferrules take your time, be patient. Heat everything up as evenly as you can but don't get it too hot. I did it by heating,, removing the flame from the joint then touching the solder to the joint. Repeat frequently until the solder melts and is sucked into the joint. At that point is is a simple thing to work your way around the joint using the same method all the way around. It is important not to have the flame and the solder on the joint at the same time.
Clean your fresh solder job immediately, as soon as it cools. I used a hot soapy brush followed by an acetone wipe. That liquid acid flux is a bitch to clean out if it sits for any time. You will be glad you did this when it's time to do your cleaning runs.
Follow Twisted Bricks advice on how to solder your shotgun. I did and it went very smoothly, no leaks, first time.

Appreciate the feedback, all very sound advice that I will employ. I have held silver brazing tickets in the past, along with several different pressure tickets for multiple weld processes and positions, hopefully this will serve me well on this journey. Ideally I’d tig (even copper to SS)weld everything, however I’m not in the shop and do not have the capability at home, so silver solder it is. It’s like baking cookies, follow the steps (recipe) the same every time, and you can generate consistent results. Cleanliness is godliness, good fit up, take your time, wet rags to manage heat, and slow consistent heat till melting point, then let physics do its work! Clean, clean, clean.

Ahh, you are very lucky to be starting out with some real experience. I had to start from scratch and make all the newbie boo-boos. I even learned to tig but decided I wouldn't want to look at the product of my lack of experience. I can tell people I can tig but can't say that I do it well. The silver solder turned out looking pretty good and I believe it is plenty strong for what we are doing.

[OtisT]

I’m really enjoying following this thread. Keep up the great work. Otis

[Mashable]

I’ll apologize now for the photo orientation! Sorry, can’t seem to get right...

Some more filing, grinding and fit up. Close to soldering, I swear!
Bench is getting messy!

[Mashable]

I’m really enjoying following this thread. Keep up the great work. Otis

Thanks man, I’m really enjoying it too! Bit of a copper obsession! I’m getting some Kramer vibes! Some legit Kenny Rogers Chicken type stuff going on!

[Not sure]

Looks to be coming together good job

[Mashable]

First test solder joint was a 2” elbow fitted with a ground copper sleeve type K ( lots of material removal) and the SS long ferrule. I used propane torch with Stay Brite 8 and Stay Clean liquid flux. Worked out really nice, I can see the solder wicked up to the top of the inside joints. Happy so far.

[Saltbush Bill]

Nice build mashable.

[Mashable]

These went really nice, a little lick of heat from above the joint and applied the solder from below, wicked in real nice.

[Mashable]

Death by a thousand pictures! Here is a couple more, output end plate and hydrostatic next, then ferrules once watered up. I soldered the inlet end plate and tubes all at the same time, I’m sure it’s water tight, wish I had done it prior to inserting, oh well......

.

[Deplorable]

Looks good. Nice solder joints, but you should have aligned the water ports between two of the vapor tubes. It looks like you have them aligned over the top of one of them.

[Mashable]

Looks good. Nice solder joints, but you should have aligned the water ports between two of the vapor tubes. It looks like you have them aligned over the top of one of them.

I thought on that one for a bit, I orientated them the way I did because of the baffling, I wanted the inlet and outlet ports centre to the inboard and outboard for maximum flow disturbance, going with inlet between to tubes I thought would shorten the flow path and potentially create low flow area’s. Just my crazy thinking, beauty thing is if it’s an issue, it’s fixable down the road.

[StillerBoy]

And also lost 20% of the cooling ability by positioning the water ports so far away from the ends plates..

Mars

[Deplorable]

It'll still run fine and you'll love it like a child. They're over efficient anyway.
How I did mine was, I located them an inch back from the end plate, then clocked the first baffle with the opening opposite the water port. Staggering the baffles 180 degrees through the stack.

[Mashable]

And also lost 20% of the cooling ability by positioning the water ports so far away from the ends plates..

Mars

Thanks for the feedback Mars, I placed the ports a little closer to the end plates than first and last baffles which are spaced at 2-1/4” while the ports are about 2” from the end plates. I assumed equal spacing for everything was the ideal setup. Kinda just got going, wish I paid a little closer attention, but still happy with the end product, so far anyway. I learn more from making a few mistakes than getting it right first try, so that’s a positive. Cheers!!

[Mashable]

It'll still run fine and you'll love it like a child. They're over efficient anyway.
How I did mine was, I located them an inch back from the end plate, then clocked the first baffle with the opening opposite the water port. Staggering the baffles 180 degrees through the stack.

I was close to the same, except I placed my ports at approx 2”. Lesson learned. I’m sure I’m in for a few of those.

[Not sure]

Hell you got close enough itll work fine just prolly run a little hotter depending on your cooling system looks good man