Home Distiller

Personally, I would make it modular. Add ferrules at each major joint, so that you can break it down and rearrange it as needed. Case in point, that 2”x20” is half way to a decent reflux column, but you can’t use it like that if you’ve soldered everything solid like in your drawing. In my opinion, what you spend on ferrules, gaskets, and clamps you more than save in the long run by not having to buy materials for a whole new still head.

As Steve says modular works well

One diagram is my modular pot/ CCVM head, the other a simple pot.

Think about removing parts and simplicity

Steve Broady has a perfectly logical explanation. The vertical portion in his description keeps it modular.

Sorry Sporacle, but I don't believe that reducers need to be vertical (not horizontal). The upcoming vapor temp is so hot that it would likely vaporize it (even if it did pool/condense at all). I believe what you're talking about is 'passive reflux' which is vapor condensing and pooling in areas where it can.

I would LOVE to see someone set up a basic pot still and have a sight glass between their boiler and their riser. I'd like to see what kind of 'passive reflux' is visible falling back to the boiler. My bet is that NONE is visible. Even if there were any visible, I'd bet it would be very very little and I'd say it's just a little passive reflux. How can that be a bad thing? VERY large pot stills go WAY out of their way to encourage passive reflux which I've read is not practical to reproduce in such a small hobby scale. That's my theory anyway.

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2023 9:35 pm Sorry Sporacle, but I don't believe that reducers need to be vertical (not horizontal). The upcoming vapor temp is so hot that it would likely vaporize it (even if it did pool/condense at all). I believe what you're talking about is 'passive reflux' which is vapor condensing and pooling in areas where it can.

No, not talking about passive reflux im talking about smearing.
If the vapour condenses in a part of the still and pools there then that would cause smearing, or as you are calling it "passive reflux"

Aside from the pooling issues the forces that the original design would impart on the keg Junction would be alleviated by being vertical.

Maybe I should have addressed that

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2023 9:35 pm I would LOVE to see someone set up a basic pot still and have a sight glass between their boiler and their riser. I'd like to see what kind of 'passive reflux' is visible falling back to the boiler. My bet is that NONE is visible. Even if there were any visible, I'd bet it would be very very little and I'd say it's just a little passive reflux.

I’ve done it. Yes, there is some passive reflux visible. It’s not a waterfall, more like heavy condensation on a cold window, with the occasional trickle down the glass. Next time I set up for stripping run, I’ll add a sight glass and take a picture for you.

Dean I'd also strongly suggest that you make it all modular with Tri clamp fittings, it's a no brainer.

Once you have the keg all setup and happy, that can be the same boiler for any setup that you wish to run from that point on.

I did it this way and use all the same parts for stripping/pot runs, and then just flip it all over and add a packed column for reflux runs when needed.

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2023 9:35 pm I would LOVE to see someone set up a basic pot still and have a sight glass between their boiler and their riser. I'd like to see what kind of 'passive reflux' is visible falling back to the boiler. My bet is that NONE is visible. Even if there were any visible, I'd bet it would be very very little and I'd say it's just a little passive reflux. How can that be a bad thing? VERY large pot stills go WAY out of their way to encourage passive reflux which I've read is not practical to reproduce in such a small hobby scale. That's my theory anyway.

I run strips with a glass on top of the boiler Salt, and I see lots of reflux action as the still is coming online and for a few mins after, but once all the metal upstream of the glass is hot, it all stops.
I can make it rain again, as I discovered accidentally by putting a couple of cold wet rags on top of the riser and elbow, but the reflux doesn't last for long.

This is what I did with mine. It’s 1.5” instead of 2”, but the concept is the same. The leibig has the same flange on , so I can connect it with any other parts as I need at the moment.

Nice use of a tool/tackle box there Steve. And an understanding wife that lets you take over the laundry room.

Sporacle wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2023 9:58 pm

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2023 9:35 pm Sorry Sporacle, but I don't believe that reducers need to be vertical (not horizontal). The upcoming vapor temp is so hot that it would likely vaporize it (even if it did pool/condense at all). I believe what you're talking about is 'passive reflux' which is vapor condensing and pooling in areas where it can.

No, not talking about passive reflux im talking about smearing.
If the vapour condenses in a part of the still and pools there then that would cause smearing, or as you are calling it "passive reflux"

Aside from the pooling issues the forces that the original design would impart on the keg Junction would be alleviated by being vertical.

Maybe I should have addressed that

Yeah I guess you're right. I followed that concept with my stills too. I do have a horizontal concentric reducer as part of my VM head though. I figure since it's tapered, if anything accumulated, it would run back down the column.

I’ve heard about pooling at the top of Shottys for years . One day I just had to find out how much .
viewtopic.php?p=7699757&sid=597ae71d379 ... 9#p7699757

Steve Broady wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2023 10:03 pm

Salt Must Flow wrote: ↑Wed Sep 13, 2023 9:35 pm I would LOVE to see someone set up a basic pot still and have a sight glass between their boiler and their riser. I'd like to see what kind of 'passive reflux' is visible falling back to the boiler. My bet is that NONE is visible. Even if there were any visible, I'd bet it would be very very little and I'd say it's just a little passive reflux.

I’ve done it. Yes, there is some passive reflux visible. It’s not a waterfall, more like heavy condensation on a cold window, with the occasional trickle down the glass. Next time I set up for stripping run, I’ll add a sight glass and take a picture for you.

Well, I tried to take a picture… You just can’t see anything. There’s a thin film of liquid flowing back down the walls of the glass, but the surface tension is so low that you can’t see it in the photo. This is a spirit run on a pot still, running at about 500W. So yes, there is some minimal passive reflux. Whether that makes any difference or not is beyond my current knowledge to say.

Thanks everyone for your advice and input.

Based on that please see my updated design. Any additional critique or input is requested. I arbitrarily made the first riser off the keg at 20" inn height. In this design, I shortened that to 12 inches. Is there an optimal height for this type of pot still?

[img][/img]

The riser's height doesn't matter. You can make the riser as high as needed to make collecting product more convenient. For instance if your boiler is sitting on the floor and you want to collect product on a table or counter top, you can make the riser as high as needed to achieve that. You see a lot of people with their boiler on the floor and collecting product on or close to the floor. I don't like to squat. Some people put their boiler on a table and collect product on or near the table. You make it how you want it. The still will not behave any differently doing it one way or another.

All of that will work for you Dean, but you don't need it all.

A keg based setup to run as a pot and as a reflux still needs only the following sections:-

Packed column of an appropriate height to run as a reflux still.
Equal tee
90° elbow
8-12" spool (For a CCVM to hold the Reflux condenser)
Cap end (For the top of the tee when running as a pot)
Sight glass optional but useful
Reducer from elbow to condenser when needed

That's really about it.
Pot
Reflux

All same parts.

deanodeano wrote: ↑Sat Sep 16, 2023 12:45 pm Thanks everyone for your advice and input.

Based on that please see my updated design. Any additional critique or input is requested. I arbitrarily made the first riser off the keg at 20" inn height. In this design, I shortened that to 12 inches. Is there an optimal height for this type of pot still?

[imgIMG_1861.JPG][/img]

The only thing I would change on this design is.....
The elbow that reduces down from 2" to 1/2". I would use an extra Ferrule there making the elbow and the reducer modular. That just give you more options with those fittings. It'll give you more options to set up differently. I'd try to include as many TriClamp in the design as I could.
Good luck man.

@wildcats, thank you. That makes sense. I should have noted that tri clamps would be used at each ferrule joint along with the appropriate food grade gasket.

deanodeano wrote: ↑Sat Sep 16, 2023 12:45 pm Thanks everyone for your advice and input.

Based on that please see my updated design. Any additional critique or input is requested. I arbitrarily made the first riser off the keg at 20" inn height. In this design, I shortened that to 12 inches. Is there an optimal height for this type of pot still?

[imgIMG_1861.JPG][/img]

Like wildcats says I would make the two 2" elbows identical with another triclamp joint. Reducer after that. Now you can eliminate the 1/2” 45 degree elbow and set the angle of the leibig when you put it together.

If 45 is perfect you can tighten the clamp at that angle, if you want the spout higher or lower just turn the last 2" elbow a little before you clamp it down.

deanodeano wrote: ↑Sat Sep 16, 2023 2:01 pm @wildcats, thank you. That makes sense. I should have noted that tri clamps would be used at each ferrule joint along with the appropriate food grade gasket.

PTFE gaskets. Not food grade (silicone) gaskets.

PTFE, got it. Do you replace them with every run?

So here is my design for a matching Liebig. I've read that longer is better? I can find a way to support it. I will be using some my old beer brewing equipment and the propane burner is on a typical turkey fryer stand, plus the keg height, plus the head riser height .....and I want to get the collection vessel as far from the burner as possible.

I don't see any way to make the Liebig modular. Since it only has the water jacket and through tube with condensed spirits in it, is cleaning easier?

Again, critiques and advice are welcome.

elbono wrote: ↑Sat Sep 16, 2023 2:07 pm I would make the two 2" elbows identical with another triclamp joint. Reducer after that. Now you can eliminate the 1/2” 45 degree elbow and set the angle of the leibig when you put it together.

I was about to say the same thing. My usual setup is only three components (plus gaskets and clamps). Two elbows and a leibig. The leibig has a 1.5” TC flange on the input end and I use 1.5” on the boiler, so no need for reducers, adapters, etc. 2” would work just as well, and is what I would have used if I’d started with a keg. Sometimes, I’ll add a short riser or sight glass if I need the height or want to see what’s going on, but often I don’t bother.

With that, I can easily set the output of the leibig at any height I want, and even adjust mid run if I need to. I’ve done that before, when I switch from collecting in jars to just collecting rum tails to put into the next run, collecting them in a carboy. Minimal parts count, maximum flexibility.

deanodeano wrote: ↑Sat Sep 16, 2023 2:56 pm I don't see any way to make the Liebig modular.

Here’s what I did. On the input end, find a ferrule sized to fit the water jacket, and use a regular tee instead of a reducer tee. Heat and flare the inner product tube so that it’s a tight fit inside either the water jacket or ferrule. I used 3/4” over 1/2”, with a coil of wire inside to force the water to spiral. The water jacket is about 27” long, and I can just knock down everything that my 5,800W element can throw at it. For me, that’s a good size. Long enough to do the job, short enough to not get too unwieldy. And even full of water and holding the weight of the hoses, the triclamp is plenty strong enough to hold it securely in any position.

Edit: I just saw that you’re on propane. I suspect that you don’t actually need any extra height, just distance from the fire. Using two elbows, you can have the leibig nearly horizontal and thus build it no longer than you need to.

deanodeano wrote: ↑Sat Sep 16, 2023 2:56 pm PTFE, got it. Do you replace them with every run?

I don't see any way to make the Liebig modular.

Teflon gaskets last forever, maybe not that long if you abuse them. Even silicone will last a good while but they're putting toxic crap in your product the whole time.

I've been trying to figure out a way to make a disassemblable leibig since I started playing with distilling I don't think it's possible. Anyone that figures that out will will live forever in the halls of infamy.

elbono wrote: ↑Sat Sep 16, 2023 3:16 pm I've been trying to figure out a way to make a disassemblable leibig since I started playing with distilling I don't think it's possible. Anyone that figures that out will will live forever in the halls of infamy.

Just how disassemblable do you want it? I have some ideas.

A Tri-Clamp NPT Adapter makes it modular too. The interior is even tapered.

I soldered in place Flush Copper Reducer for the water ports. I then used a 3/8" thread tap. Lastly I just screwed in the quick disconnect fittings for the water lines. I can remove the Liebig Condenser and water lines with no tools.

deanodeano wrote: ↑Sat Sep 16, 2023 2:56 pm I've read that longer is better?

This will help figure out how long the leibig should be. Power is hard to estimate on gas but since 5500W is a common electric element size I would use that as a minimum.

On gas the main objective is distance to open flames.

https://homedistiller.org/wiki/htm/calc ... d_calc.htm

Another option is to use a stainless union to attach your liebig, the one liebig can be used on multiple stills then
I've seen a recent thread where someone was having trouble sealing with a union.
I've been using this one for ten years now ,it gets changed from still to still regularly, I've never had a problem with it or the others I own.
Buy good quality stainless and sealing problems shouldn't be an issue.

I stand to be corrected, but since the water jacket portion of the Liebig really shouldn't ever need clean as all it comes into contact with is water - I suppose a occasional 5/50 white vinegar/water flush wouldn't hurt.

What tends to build up in the spirit condensing tube? Since that is straight through, I had an idea from my jazz band playing days. I play the trombone. The rod and swab idea ought to translate pretty easily to cleaning the spirit condensing tube?

Once your proper cleaning runs are done, it's clean. I just rinse it after every use and hang it up to dry. It will get a patina with time just like any copper. You can look through the vapor tube, swab it or even use a brass brush through it on occasion. Most of the time I don't do anything with it.

deanodeano wrote: ↑Sat Sep 16, 2023 2:56 pm PTFE, got it. Do you replace them with every run?

So here is my design for a matching Liebig. I've read that longer is better? I can find a way to support it. I will be using some my old beer brewing equipment and the propane burner is on a typical turkey fryer stand, plus the keg height, plus the head riser height .....and I want to get the collection vessel as far from the burner as possible.

I don't see any way to make the Liebig modular. Since it only has the water jacket and through tube with condensed spirits in it, is cleaning easier?

Again, critiques and advice are welcome.

Dean have another look at that build thread I linked you, for the simplest way to get a modular connector fitted.
Not sure what the US copper sizes are exactly, but I'll bet you there's a combo of tube and Tri clamp size that will slide together like 22mm and 1" does in the UK.
Clean up, slide together, heat up and it solders like you are a pro.

Been researching using a beer keg and glad I found this thread. I'm going to give it a go directly to my tower with a tri-clamp. If it's starts to be a pain to fill and clean I'm thinking about welding a 4" bulkhead and getting a reducer. Hoping that will not be necessary.