Home Distiller

Mine was a cheap Mexican 1000w unit. I knew it wasn't up to the task but I was pushing the limits anyway.

The one you have looks nice.

Mason and SC had a better explanation than me. I guess it makes sense that one leg just passes through. I didn't think how on my SSR controller you only regulate one leg of the 220. Knew someone would explain it clearer!

thepatchworkdoll wrote:Hi PNW
I see from your buddies info that only the hot wire goes through the controller. What do you do with the neutral. Do you just hook them together. And why the 4 terminals if you only require 2. Ive got one as well and have not wired it up yet. Any help really appreciated.
Regards
Patch

Yes indeed for 120 just the pins with the arrows in my pic. There are 4 pinouts for 220. Neutral goes around the SCR and straight to the element. As others have hinted use 3 prong and ground anything metal.

I found that an old SAN i had lying around was the perfect project box for this. It already had built in 5v fan. I still have to find a suitable wire for the output but I like where this is going.

$21.99 with free 2-day Amazon Prime shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Rectifier ... =10000+scr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

it has arrived.
it will be regulating a 1500w hot plate here are some pics of my new control box.

This is my second SCR. I had to rewire the cooling fan on this sucker like I did with the other one earlier in this thread. The power supply for the fans on these units are junk.

I just want to comment on the particular seller (saymlove) in the original post. I tried to order 2 of these units and no item in the mail after 4 weeks. Launched a dispute through ebay and the seller "resends" me 2 more. Again no item, and whats more, ebay closes my dispute due to lack of activity. I told ebay that I was waiting for the units but they would not reopen the case.

I finally received a refund through paypal.

This seller lies, gives bogus tracking no's, then clams up when you try to ask whats up. I just thought I would share my wonderful experience. I've ordered many items from china in the past, so my only beef is with this seller.

I still need a controller... lol

Me i need the ways to wire it 110v, to run a eating element of 1500watts in my still, cam somme one help me, thanks.

The G wrote:Me i need the ways to wire it 110v, to run a eating element of 1500watts in my still, cam somme one help me, thanks.

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Did you read through here at all? Clear picture of how to do it on third page. Wire hot in to one of the outer and hot out to the other outer terminal. Keep neutral straight to the element or you could wire the neutral to the middle two terminals. Feel free to browse a bunch of the posts in the electrical section so you know you are safe in your wiring and test it out trying to boil water first.

Edited to add the post was by PacificNorthWest

Tanks,Snackson it's perfect now , but the fan on mine is not working so i thing i Will Have to change it for a nother one,

The G wrote:Tanks,Snackson it's perfect now , but the fan on mine is not working so i thing i Will Have to change it for a nother one,

Still never read the thread did you, G?

Read this: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 0#p7336619

With 3 kid's under age, in the day Time is prety hard to do something, so for sure i will read-it in the " moonshine " hours but for now i put a biger fan, decause the one there is minuscule......And i rather it to run all the Time.

A quick question for you electronic minded folks out there.. I just found this on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-0-220 ... C110V+220V" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Its a 0-220V 50A Pulse Width Modulator up to 10000W. Tried to do a little reading on this vs the old standby silicon controlled rectifiers (SCRs) and then a little smoke came out of the ears and I mentally shut down. I also pulled up a few threads here and found punkin and pintoshine talking about a dc pwm so....like 2008 era (and above my understanding but seemingly not related to my question)

So the question what is the difference between this PWM and the SCR controller and which would be better for our purposes? I have my scr in my controller now but was looking for a backup unit when I ran across this bad boy.

Its the same thing. PWM is how SCR's work. Its simple really, think of it as a fast switch. If you stood at your doorway and flicked your light switch on and off really fast, the room would be dimmer right? Now when standing there switching really fast, if you dwelled in the off position a touch longer, it would be dimmer still right. or if you dwelled in the on position longer, brighter right? Thats what a SCR/PWM does to control power, only electronically so you dont have to stand there looking like a putz flicking the switch on and off really fast for hours.

That SMAKN brand just changed the name so you wouldnt search SCR and see that they are charging 10 bucks more than everybody else.

Jimbo wrote:... so you dont have to stand there looking like a putz flicking the switch on and off really fast for hours.

Spoken in a way I can So easily understand! notable and quotable...here I come.

I have a question, and I may have missed in as I read through this.

When wiring this up there is no mention of the grand wire, does it just pass through and head to the element?
also, is there a newer, preferred model or link on the bay for the ones everyone is using?

This I think is the last questions I need answered before I purchase one.

TXB

TxBrewing wrote:I have a question, and I may have missed in as I read through this.

When wiring this up there is no mention of the grand wire, does it just pass through and head to the element?
also, is there a newer, preferred model or link on the bay for the ones everyone is using?

This I think is the last questions I need answered before I purchase one.

TXB

You ground everything metal. Up to and including your still.

I get that. My still will be grounded. Same way my brewery is.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, there was post here that ask for some clarification, but it seems to have been deleted.

I will try to explain better:

The SCR has inputs and outputs for the 2 hot legs.

Everything I ever wired for my brewery controller, or had help wiring for my brewery controller, has either 3 or 4 lines (10/3 or 10/4 cable)

The element enclosure has a grounding lug, so that should ground the still.

I have a 4 wire service 220v @ 30a at the wall. So I can run 10/4 into the SCR enclosure, send hot 1 and hot 2 into the SCR, terminate the neutral into a grounding bar in the enclosure and tie the ground leg of the 10/4 to the ground leg of 10/3 cable and simply pass it through the enclosure and terminate at the ground lug on the element. Hot 1 and Hot 2 from the 10/3 will tie into the output of the SCR and terminate at the element. I can then ground the SCR body to the neutral bus bar.

Or, in my head that is what I think will work.
Please, if I am missing something, fill me in.

Thanks
TXB

edit because I had my Ground and Neutral backwards.....

TxBrewing wrote:Ok, there was post here that ask for some clarification, but it seems to have been deleted.

I will try to explain better:

The SCR has inputs and outputs for the 2 hot legs.

Everything I ever wired for my brewery controller, or had help wiring for my brewery controller, has either 3 or 4 lines (10/3 or 10/4 cable)

The element enclosure has a grounding lug, so that should ground the still.

I have a 4 wire service 220v @ 30a at the wall. So I can run 10/4 into the SCR enclosure, send hot 1 and hot 2 into the SCR, terminate the ground into a grounding bar in the enclosure and tie the neutral leg to the neutral leg of 10/3 cable and simply pass it through the enclosure and terminate at the ground lug on the element. Hot 1 and Hot 2 from the 10/3 will tie into the output of the SCR and terminate at the element. I can then ground the SCR body to the ground bus bar.

Or, in my head that is what I think will work.
Please, if I am missing something, fill me in.

Thanks
TXB

If you're not running anything in your enclosure or off of it at 120, wire nut it and call it a day. Hot 1/2 in from service to scr. Hot 1/2 out of scr to element. Ground in from service wired to controller housing and should even ground the SCR perforated cage, and then out to grounding but on element housing. Your boiler will be grounded via the triclamp to element housing to the grounding nut and KK the way back to your main ground.