Home Distiller

well iv made the colum part. but i havent figured out how to attach it to a stainless steel pot yet.

heres the specs
3 feet of 2 inch copper going to a 2"-1" reducer. 6 inches of one inch and 2 inchs of it going up past the top reducer. and 7 feet of 5/8" for the coil inside the top part witch is 18 inches of 2 inch pipe

Nice work, Sleepydog. And tall, too!
Don't you want a valve of some kind on the product take-off tube?
What kind of boiler do you have in mind for this beast? A beer keg?
Be sure to post some more pictures of the finished still, narcolepticpug.


Really nice work. It certainly puts my first still to shame.
Fester

well this isnt my first . but it will be my first complete still. on friday i tryed to tig weld it together. but it just looked like crap cuz the color chance from the heat. and it would have taken just to long. so after one joint i scraped it.

iv got a pot right now that will do about 3 gal. but i dont know how to attach the colum to the stainless pot.
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS??? i want to attach a female 2" fitting to the stainless lid. i dont want to put the colum on permenently cuz i will be putting it on a keg eventuly

oh, and what are the benifits of a valve? all i could think of would be the negative. like say forgetting to open it and then being forced to remodel after half your house is destroyed by copper shrapnall

first the still should be vented,above the reflux condenser,then it cant build up pressure.
the valve controls the amount of reflux or take off, depending on type of still

so i should drill a hole on the cap of the condenser?

and should i pack the whole 3 feet with ss scrubbers?

yes you should have a vent in the top, nothing should git past the condenser.
yes the more "packing" you have the more reflux. it should be about 1in. (25mm-) below where you take off or as
I thank your still has a reducer Id pack 1in (25mm) below that.

thank you....
what about ideas on how to attach my still to a stainless steal lid for a pot.. i cant get a answer on how to do that anywere

Rig would work better with little larger volume pot ... not to mention that its going to be top heavy..

new_moonshiner wrote:Rig would work better with little larger volume pot ... not to mention that its going to be top heavy..

Pretty well every still column should be supported at the top to, say, a clamp on the wall, to be sure it is unable to fall.

I thank a neat way whould be to use two "easy flanges" one on the pot and one on the column, and when you git your keg it will mount right on.

where do you get easy flanges

you make it---http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 92&start=0
then all you need is a clamp, some home brew stores have them, used on conical fermenters.
mile high,brew Hus. Ill look as someone was making them.

hear is another way http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 4#p6807049
Festers makes them .

oh yea. j/k im a retared. we have a machine at work that will turn flanges like that. lol

if you use the the flange it will fit on your keg when you git it.

but what kind of clamps and how do they work (do you have any pictures)

or i could weld some threded studs to the lid and get some wingnuts

like this--http://www.hosexpress.com/sanitary/clamps.htm

thank you very much... what about activated cabon filtering... is that needed... im trying to make 90% acl. so i wouldnt think so but should i?

narcolepticpug wrote:oh, and what are the benifits of a valve? all i could think of would be the negative. like say forgetting to open it and then being forced to remodel after half your house is destroyed by copper shrapnall

If you don't have a valve then you don't have a way to control the reflux ratio except for controlling the heat.

narcolepticpug wrote:thank you very much... what about activated cabon filtering... is that needed... im trying to make 90% acl. so i wouldnt think so but should i?

If the wash is fermented properly, and distilled properly, making proper cuts, there should be no reason for the added step and expense of carbon filtering... In short, do it right and nix the carbon...

an easy way of making your own flange is to get a copper end cap that'll fit your column, drill a large hole in the centre, making sure you leave about 10mm around the edge. finally, drill 5 or 6 6mm holes for your bolts, and matching holes on your boiler. bolt the flange to the boiler with some stainless 6mm nuts and bolts and your done.

finally found the thread i got this idea from, a picture is better than a thousand words as they say . it's about halfway down the page.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... =17&t=5829