Home Distiller

Hi Guys,
I just got off the line with the folks at JB Weld after reading through their material data sheets. They say that once the product is fully cured ( as per directions) it will remain chemically inert untitl the weld reaches its upper temperature range. I specifically mentioned butyl, methanol , ethanol and some of the other "lovelies" we can encounter. The folks at JB Weld assure me that they will remain chemically and temperately inert until they approach the materials destruction point. The JB Weld product will resist temperatures up to 500 F, while the stick and quick weld will resist up to 300F. They said if I wanted to feel safer about it, I could use the Marine weld which is specially formulated to resists salts and acids, but that the regular compound would work for nearly anything.

I was wondering if anyone has used this to any resolve. Im still liking my soldering, but I was wondering about this.

SB

It's gonna take more than their say so to make JB weld fly around here.

Post a scientific study showin' that JB weld leaches NADA into hot alcohol vapour or liquid and we can talk about it more. Until then...

I fully agree. I was just wondering if anyone had ACTUALLY pursued this line of thought and asked them to produce proof. I will get in touch with them and see if I can get their HAZMAT documentation.

Well call me a witch and burn me at the stake...
http://www.sciencenews.org/view/generic ... ue_to_grow" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Apparently Bisphenol-A is one of the major components in the resin compound in JB Weld.
Think Im sticking with simple silver solder and pressure couplings. Gonna wear gloves when working with stuff from now on too.

Mackeral, I can definitely tell you that JB Weld would not leach NADA...but as for other chemicals...

Thanks for indulging me. If I find any other seriously harrowing news about it, I will post it up so we can have definite references.

SB

ScottishBoy wrote:Mackeral, I can definitely tell you that JB Weld would not leach NADA...but as for other chemicals...

Sorry, we all speak Spanglish here in the mountains of Northern New Mexico... nada just means "nothin' ".

theholymackerel wrote:

ScottishBoy wrote:Mackeral, I can definitely tell you that JB Weld would not leach NADA...but as for other chemicals...

Sorry, we all speak Spanglish here in the mountains of Northern New Mexico... nada just means "nothin' ".

Probabaly should have been written like so...

<dry/geek humor>
Mackeral, I can definitely tell you that JB Weld would not leach NADA...but as for other chemicals...
</dry/geek humor>

I know it means nothing...

to save anyone else desperate enough to try:
I've read enough on here to know better, and tried to follow the rules, only used stainless pot, stainless bowl, stainless sink drain as adapter to copper pipe. ptfe as gasket for sink drain. I soldered all my copper, and tested for leaks, no issues at all, except for one spot that I could find no proper adapters, or fittings. I was forced to make one.

The drain had a brass nut that would normally pull the plastic drain pipe tight, but the $25 copper adapter I bought to replace that appeared to have the right threads, but in actuality, it didn't fit snug, and no amount of ptfe tape, or monkey wrench tightening would fix the leaks.. My custom-made adapter with the brass nut, and a copper pipe with soldered flange(then all soldered together) didn't quite grab the threads enough to allow a ptfe gasket to work(that nut really didn't have enough threads for modification), and was not going to solder properly. I attempted to use jbweld here, due to finding lots of information on the web about it being food safe, and inert.

I ran some vinegar cleaning runs through, and the distillate was blue. thought this was from my new copper pipe, until I opened the still up the next day after leaving overnight after the run. the jbweld had rusted. brown, nasty coat over every spot of jbweld. This could be from a bad mix(not enough of one tube, too much of another), but I went immediately to strip all the jbweld off, and find a replacement. I cleaned all my copper pipe, and still parts thoroughly again, after doing more research, I found that jbweld steelstik is what I should have used. advertises alcohol resistance, and is for plumbing, heat resistant up to 300. I used that as my replacement, and much better results. no degradation, no rust, and is hard as a rock..amazing product really.
I want to add, that the surface area on the steelstik that is exposed to the inside of the still is very small, and I would love to see some tests done on this, as when ptfe was first mentioned. I think there is the need for a safe epoxy, or glue that is not on the list of safe materials currently. But since I'm a newb, I will undoubtedly get flogged for this post, so bring it on. As I said, I did try to do it right, but we all have to rig something eventually.

Will JB weld stand behind you if you do something illegal with it or pay you for your losses or give your family money if you die while you do something illegal with it? I don't think its a good idea. JMHO

We dont all have to "rig" somthing eventually. I bet there was a hundred different ways to do what you wanted without jb weld. Solder brazing rod ptfe flour paste a wet noodle welding it on the list goes on forever. Even ditch the strainer and flair the pipe slide it up and in and solder. I wonder if that tube of jd weld says its safe for human consumption on it. There is a difference between alcohol tolerance at room temp and degrading at 200 degree hot alcohol vapor.