Hey Guy's Made a New Pot for Strippin....
Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 12:42 pm
Hi guy's 3 week's since I posted, been busy though... Theres a bit of lens distortion, i'll fix it later but for now it'll do. She is perfectly verticle with the arm comming off at 45deg. Ok Here she is, simple, dainty and easy to use....
ingredients:
40L SS Stock Pot
1 2in End Cap
500mm 2in Copper Tube
2in to 1in Reducer
12in x 1in pipe (45deg Bend)
1in x 90deg Elbow
2in x 1in copper nipple
1in x 1/2in Reducer
4 ss M4 (4mm) Nuts and Bolts
************************************************
Liebig:
2off 1/2in x 8mm reducer
800mm x 8mm copper pipe
1in x 24in copper pipe
2off 1in x 1/2in x 1/2in Tees
2off 1/2in x 1.5in nipples.
6in x 1/2in copper pipe
************************************************
Made it to practice my soldering before I make my Bokakob LM still.
Heres a rundown.....(Ill start at the bottom)
Lid Connection...
---------------------
The connection to the lid was the first thing I tackled. I decided that, as I had a couple of Endcaps for 2in
lying around I would use one as a connector to the top of the pot. I cut a 1.5 inch hole in the endcap, leaving
1/4 in for the flange rim inside. I then traced the vapour hole and bolt holes to the SS with a sharpie. After cutting and drilling the holes with a Dremel tool, I fastened the endcap to the lid with a seal made from gasket paper and flour paste, and tightened the 4 M4 stainless Steel screws. I then cut them to length with the Dremel tool....
Worked a treat....
Vapour Pipe...
----------------------
For this I cut a piece of 2in copper tube at 500mm. Since the reduced pipe at the top would be 150mm tall this would give me an overall height for the still at 600mm. I then soldered a 2in coupler at the top and inserted a 2in OD reducer into the couplar (This will be a tight fit with some PTFE tape. (Worked a treat).
I soldered the 1in pipe to the 2in x 1in reducer, soldered the 1in 90deg elbow to the bent (45deg) pipe and soldered the nipple to the elbow, 1in x 1/2 in reducer to nipple, 1/2in x 2in nipple to reducer and place male compresion connector onto pipe followed by copper olive to attach Liebig. The brass 1/2in compression joint was pickled in a Paroxcide/Citric solution to removed the surface lead they use to machine the brass with. There was no problems with the soldering, I used all the information that is available here on HD.
Soldering Tip:
----------------------
Once the surface of the mating areas have been cleaned, do not touch them with your fingers. This imparts oils, dirt and other nasties and the solder does not flow true. This can be said for both capillary and solder joints.
The Liebig condenser...
----------------------
This was very straight forward, although the number of parts makes it look quite daunting at first.
The first thing I done was to prepare the vapour chamber (Internal Pipe). I done this by connecting the 800mm x 8mm pipe to the 1/2in pipe by means of a 1in x 1/2in x 1/2in tee. I then prepared a 1in x 1/2in x 1/2in tee by filing the internal rib of copper that keeps the two sizes from flowing throught the fitting. For this I needed the 1/2in pipe to flow through the tee so I used a small bastard file on the inside. Once in place, I left 2in of copper to connect the other half of the compression joint. I then soldered the tee inplace to the 1in pipe, 1/2 vapor chamber and 1/2in collant nipple.
I performed the same operation at the bottom of the liebig using a 2in nipple for the cooland and the cooland sleeve. I them prepared another 1/2in x 8mm reducer with the bastard file and soldered that in place. This left me 300mm of 8mm copper to bend into shape for the take off.
Simple, Small and it works.....
Cleaning...
----------------------
I cleaned the whole rig with a 60(vinegar) 40(water) solution for an hour and a half. I then put 10 ltrs of 40% feigns through her. On saturday I will strip 25L of a 10% abv sweet feed wash and Sunday 20L of Rads All Bran wash. I'll let you know what the outcome was.
Conclusion...
----------------------
Theres no frills with this still, it works and I only made it for strippin, but I'll definately be trying some flavoured beverages as my experience grows. Cant wait to get into the Bokakob, definately got the copper bug.
Acknowledgments...
----------------------
Where to start: Rad, Hook, Husker, Kentucky Shiner, Toofless, Joe, Ect; Ect; Thanks guys, HD is the place to be. Forget everthing else, if you want to get into this hobby, you really need the expertise and experience of HD. There no better out there... Thanks again...
S
ingredients:
40L SS Stock Pot
1 2in End Cap
500mm 2in Copper Tube
2in to 1in Reducer
12in x 1in pipe (45deg Bend)
1in x 90deg Elbow
2in x 1in copper nipple
1in x 1/2in Reducer
4 ss M4 (4mm) Nuts and Bolts
************************************************
Liebig:
2off 1/2in x 8mm reducer
800mm x 8mm copper pipe
1in x 24in copper pipe
2off 1in x 1/2in x 1/2in Tees
2off 1/2in x 1.5in nipples.
6in x 1/2in copper pipe
************************************************
Made it to practice my soldering before I make my Bokakob LM still.
Heres a rundown.....(Ill start at the bottom)
Lid Connection...
---------------------
The connection to the lid was the first thing I tackled. I decided that, as I had a couple of Endcaps for 2in
lying around I would use one as a connector to the top of the pot. I cut a 1.5 inch hole in the endcap, leaving
1/4 in for the flange rim inside. I then traced the vapour hole and bolt holes to the SS with a sharpie. After cutting and drilling the holes with a Dremel tool, I fastened the endcap to the lid with a seal made from gasket paper and flour paste, and tightened the 4 M4 stainless Steel screws. I then cut them to length with the Dremel tool....
Worked a treat....
Vapour Pipe...
----------------------
For this I cut a piece of 2in copper tube at 500mm. Since the reduced pipe at the top would be 150mm tall this would give me an overall height for the still at 600mm. I then soldered a 2in coupler at the top and inserted a 2in OD reducer into the couplar (This will be a tight fit with some PTFE tape. (Worked a treat).
I soldered the 1in pipe to the 2in x 1in reducer, soldered the 1in 90deg elbow to the bent (45deg) pipe and soldered the nipple to the elbow, 1in x 1/2 in reducer to nipple, 1/2in x 2in nipple to reducer and place male compresion connector onto pipe followed by copper olive to attach Liebig. The brass 1/2in compression joint was pickled in a Paroxcide/Citric solution to removed the surface lead they use to machine the brass with. There was no problems with the soldering, I used all the information that is available here on HD.
Soldering Tip:
----------------------
Once the surface of the mating areas have been cleaned, do not touch them with your fingers. This imparts oils, dirt and other nasties and the solder does not flow true. This can be said for both capillary and solder joints.
The Liebig condenser...
----------------------
This was very straight forward, although the number of parts makes it look quite daunting at first.
The first thing I done was to prepare the vapour chamber (Internal Pipe). I done this by connecting the 800mm x 8mm pipe to the 1/2in pipe by means of a 1in x 1/2in x 1/2in tee. I then prepared a 1in x 1/2in x 1/2in tee by filing the internal rib of copper that keeps the two sizes from flowing throught the fitting. For this I needed the 1/2in pipe to flow through the tee so I used a small bastard file on the inside. Once in place, I left 2in of copper to connect the other half of the compression joint. I then soldered the tee inplace to the 1in pipe, 1/2 vapor chamber and 1/2in collant nipple.
I performed the same operation at the bottom of the liebig using a 2in nipple for the cooland and the cooland sleeve. I them prepared another 1/2in x 8mm reducer with the bastard file and soldered that in place. This left me 300mm of 8mm copper to bend into shape for the take off.
Simple, Small and it works.....
Cleaning...
----------------------
I cleaned the whole rig with a 60(vinegar) 40(water) solution for an hour and a half. I then put 10 ltrs of 40% feigns through her. On saturday I will strip 25L of a 10% abv sweet feed wash and Sunday 20L of Rads All Bran wash. I'll let you know what the outcome was.
Conclusion...
----------------------
Theres no frills with this still, it works and I only made it for strippin, but I'll definately be trying some flavoured beverages as my experience grows. Cant wait to get into the Bokakob, definately got the copper bug.
Acknowledgments...
----------------------
Where to start: Rad, Hook, Husker, Kentucky Shiner, Toofless, Joe, Ect; Ect; Thanks guys, HD is the place to be. Forget everthing else, if you want to get into this hobby, you really need the expertise and experience of HD. There no better out there... Thanks again...
S
