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Hi guys,

I need a little help from the big brains.

I read somewhere that UJSSM should not be finished to “dry” Is that correct?
Usually my ferments are still a little sweet when they quit working any way.

General question, On most washes is it better to finish sweet then to risk having to much nutrients trying to finish to dry?

This time of year where I live it is still cool outside. I ferment indoors so my mash is warm enough to work. Even with that most of my wurt’s take 4 -5 weeks to finish. I read many times that a slow ferment is cleaner so I am patient. When my wash is finally done working I set out where it is cool to cold for it to clear for a couple of days to a week. Should UJSSM be cleared ?

When I am ready to distill I siphon the wash into my boiler. I then put a couple of gallons of cold water on the yeast bed while I distill. Should I be adding warm water instead of cold to the yeast bed after I siphon of the beer?

Here is my problem. My next mash is really slow to start. I use 25% backset and sugar concentration to SG 1090. I now have a PH meter so I will check my next UJSSM wash.

Last time it was still not working after several hours so I started overnight growing up more yeast using a cup of wash. A Full 24 hours after I had nocked it up it was finally going. I had yeast ready to go so I added it anyway.

I love UJSSM. Cracked corn is not easily available so I use corn meal. I cook the corn meal. I am getting a nice corn flavor but wonder if I am using enough to provide the nutrients for my distillers yeast?

One more question. If I add Beano to the wash, will it convert some of the boiled corn meal? Would that change the nutrient needs?

Thanks. Mash Rookie

Lets do one at a time.
your wash should finish dry,it is best if it has used up nutrients but if not then its not bad either
as long as their not in extreme excess

slow ferments are "cleaner" than fast,but when you distill you can remove any off flavors. so if you do a fast ferment and have off flavors you just remove more when you distill.
and most mash is low ABV anyway so they finish in a day or so.

I like to "clear" my mash ,some dont. I thank it gives a bit cleaner product.

adding water to yeast should be about the same temperature as the yeast bed is ,this is to prevent "shock"to the yeast.

Beano converts higher sugars not starches so it wont do any good,if you want to add nutrients use one for a mash
such as fermaid K or a bit of DAP.but grain usually have all that is necessary.

A lower gravity wash should have no off flavors from a fast ferment, only moderate to high gravity washes... A wash fermenting for 4 - 5 weeks is going to be too prone to infection, regardless of gravity...

Thanks for the advice. I will use it.

1 I will use a little warmer water next time and try not to shock my yeast
2 I will add more corn meal to my next run for added nutrients. Maybe a couple vitamins.
3 I will attempt to ferment a little warmer so it finishes dry in a week or so.

Dnderhead
What are the higher sugars you speak of? Are the present in the wash?
If so wouldn’t a little beano help it finish to dry?

Because I have heard beano mentioned many times, I am trying to understand how and why it is used and to what advantage.

Higher sugars are in some,used to some advantage in beer/wine. these do not ferment so they tend to leave a sweet taste.
this has no place in distilling as sugar will be removed anyway.some fruits,vegetables /honey have these as well as grains that have
been "caramelized" they shuld not be in a sugar wash so no advantage in adding beano to a sugar wash.