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Ok guys I am not trying to sell anything with this report I promise. I just wanted to give you guys some information on the 5500 watt heat controller with a 26 gallon boiler.
I got the New boilers in this week. Last night My son and I hooked up a MK5500 Electric Heat controller (first time I have ever used Electricity) We put 20 gallons of wash in the boiler. Fired up the Mk5500 at 7:50 believe it or not at 8:30 the Hillbilly Flute was bubbling. I was very impressed with how fast this heated up a 20 gallon wash. I let the column stabilize and bubble for about 30 minutes. I turned the controller down to 18 amps and this baby ran rock solid. You can make instant adjustments with the electric. I was really impressed. By 10:30 the run was finished and we had 2 gallon of 90% ABV. I will be posting some new videos with in the next couple of weeks on the website.
I plan to make a video of the entire run from filling the boiler to running tails.
KS.

So were you impressed enough to change over to electric from gas?

Prairiepiss wrote:So were you impressed enough to change over to electric from gas?

I vote yes

can monitor the eggzact input and that makes for easier replicating

Yes I was very impressed. I really like the control you have over your run. As LWTCS said you can exactly replicate the run perfectly. I was really amazed at how well you can control your boiler. Plus the added safe feeling of no open flame. I really did not think I would like electric but once again I have been proven wrong...
I personally give electric a but thumbs up.

Sounds great KS, 40 Mins to bring 20 gal (80L) to temps. wow...

Gonna have to re-think the propane setup bro..

Thanks for the heads up...

Kentucky shinner wrote: Fired up the Mk5500 at 7:50 believe it or not at 8:30 the Hillbilly Flute was bubbling. I was very impressed with how fast this heated up a 20 gallon wash.
KS.

that's pretty damn impressive. What size element is in the boiler?
thanks for the report there KS
NChooch

It would take my propane burner 3 hours just to get it to boil

Kentucky shinner wrote: ..... I plan to make a video of the entire run from filling the boiler to running tails.
KS.

Hey KS - There are only a few months in the year when I'd be able to still outside using propane. Too cold at -20*C in winter, and too hot at +35*C in the summer. My house and basement is always kept at ~20*C - so electric is the only option I'd consider.

My 7.5usg kettle containing a 5 to 6 usg wash gets up to temp in about 35 minutes with 2 x 1650w low-density elements (actually drawing ~1500w @118v [122v no-load]) so your times with 5500w @240v on that volume are directly comparable.

I'm using 2 router speed controllers for my kettle, but I've gotta get that MK-5500 for my 15.5usg keg with a 240v 5500w element. Let us know when you have that video available. I definitely see an MK-5500 in my still room in the near future.

I bought one of mulekickers 5500w controllers a while back because our minnesota winters can be so fu*%ing cold. I can say that it is one of the best things I have purchased (along with my flute from KS). Man those things make life a lot easier (and quicker).

Great report KS,
The only reason I use a propane burner is because it was cheap and easy. I have always known that electric is the smartest option for safety. I am very cautious about having a open flame near flammable fluids. I work with high temp equipment daily.

With the quality of MK controllers, it is only a matter of time before I bite the bullet and convert to electric.

With this info about heat up times it will make it easier for me to make the big decision and convert for safety and reliability issues. Thanks.
MR

NcHooch wrote:

Kentucky shinner wrote: Fired up the Mk5500 at 7:50 believe it or not at 8:30 the Hillbilly Flute was bubbling. I was very impressed with how fast this heated up a 20 gallon wash.
KS.

that's pretty damn impressive. What size element is in the boiler?
thanks for the report there KS
NChooch

It was a 5500 watt element.

So what amperage is needed on the breaker to run a 5500 watt element?

25 push it close....30 be better IMO

What voltage you got 220, 230, 240 or 250?

Kentucky shinner wrote: I personally give electric a but thumbs up.

electric is def most crucial . . . total control

Voltage would be 230 or 240 here I believe. Might even be 220. I am up in Canadia

5500watts /230volts = 23.91amps

You really need a 30amp circuit to run it properly. I strongly suggest using a GFCI also. You just cant be to safe around water and electricity

#10 wire (minimum) also.

My dryer has a 30 amp breaker so I am assuming it would be wired with #10 wire. I am running propane in the garage now but in a few months it will get really cold here and I don't know if I can make enough now to last me the winter. Just checking out my options.
Thanks Guys

Torp wrote:My dryer has a 30 amp breaker so I am assuming it would be wired with #10 wire.

I assume while you were typing that you were bating your eye brows

Dryer gonna be a dedicated circut too.

If your laundry facility is adjacent to the garage and you can get clearance from your missus...........yer in good shape.

Just make your harness long enough (within reason) to locate your boiler in the best possible spot.

Missus is the problem. Laundry is in the basement where it is warm in the winter. She doesn't want the still in the house.

I can temporarily heat the garage with the wood stove in the winter but thawing out that 40 gallon chunk of ice with my cooling water in it will be a bitch. Can't empty it out unless I want my grass to die or I plan on making a skating rink in the yard.

Torp wrote:Missus is the problem. She doesn't want the still in the house.

I'd seek legal advice.

put all your fore shots in the tank or use some rv antifreeze.

Open garbage can full of fores might be a problem when heating with a wood stove. It gets to -40 here, would have to be 20 to 30% to not freeze I think. I definitely would not have a problem with my coolant getting too warm though

Is RV antifreeze non-toxic?

""Is RV antifreeze non-toxic?"
yes its used in water lines when storing.

I just got an idea from another thread. If I can snake a coil outside with the return coming back inside I might be able to do away with the water cooling completely for those cold months. Hmmm how do I set that up so the neighbors don't ask questions when they see me playing with copper coils on the outside of my garage?