My take on Sour Mash Corn Likker
Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 11:43 am
This recipe was inspired by my need for a stronger corn flavour, and the basic recipe was based on “Traditional Sour Mash Whiskey” chapter 13 from “Making Pure Corn Whiskey”. Stillin' and aging are my main adaptations.
Recipe for 46L (12usg) wash:
60L (16usg) water
1T gypsum
2t citric acid
11Kg (24lbs) cracked corn
7Kg (15lbs) table sugar
½C baker’s yeast
2t G-A enzymes
Method:
Use chlorine and chloramine-free water (I treat my town water using Potassium Metabisulphite to to remove both chlorine and chloramines)
Add 1T gypsum, stir well and aerate for 30+ mins
Place 24lb cracked feed corn in 20usg fermenter and add water to cover
Simmer 15lbs sugar in 7.5L/2usg water for 20-30 mins (with 1T citric acid added on 1st gen. - Use backset and omit citric acid in subsequent gens)
Add to the fermenter and top up with a further ~38L/10 usg water
Check pH is 4.0+ (4.5 to 5.5 range is best) - adjust up with calcium carbonate if/when required
Aerate for 30 minutes
Ensure temperature is less than 38*C (100*F).
Stop aeration and sprinkle ½ C (125mm) bakers yeast on surface
After 15 minutes add 2t G-A enzymes and stir in.
Resume aeration for 30 mins.
Cover and fit airlock. – mine bubbles (slowly) immediately. Within 60mins the fermentation is very vigourous, and complete within 3 days (though the G-A and yeast will continue a very slow fermentation from the grain bed/lees.
Maintain heat at 27*C/80+*F throughout the fermentation.
Subsequent 3 generations:
Do not remove/replace trub
Stir up all the trub vigourously at the beginning of each new fermentation
Reuse 100% of the back-set, using calcium carbonate to maintain at least 4.0pH. in wash
Cool the backset and the inverted sugar so that 38*C/100*F is not exceeded when added to fementer with water to bring up to ~46L/12usg above the corn
After 4 (or 5 maximum) generations, remove ALL the grains and trub. Add fresh corn, gypsum, yeast and G-A …..BUT….. reuse ALL the back-set from the previous generation
Always add 4 or 5L water to fermenter after removing 45L/12usg for a strip rum
Freeze ALL back-set for future use and discard grains/trub if the fermentation will not be restarted within 2 days.
Filter wash through EZ filter into boiler
I make no cuts on my strip runs using 3000w internal elements.
On a 23L pot-still spirit run I collect fores at maybe 1 drop per second using ~250w, heads at ~2 drops per second using maybe 350w. After collecting 1L I switch to my parrot, collecting in 250ml jars down to 80%abv using maybe 500w. I then increase the power to about 1200-1500w and collect in 1L jars down to 70% abv.
I then switch to 250ml jars and collect down to 60%abv. I check all the above (except the first 1L of fores/heads which goes in the “alcohol cleaner” jar) for possible blending after 2 days under a coffee filter. Unwanted heads also go into the "alcohol cleaner" jar.
From 60% down to 40% I ramp the power up to 3000w. Nothing much I like the taste/smell of here (unless I am missing something?) - It all goes into my tails jar for future refluxing.
From 40% down to 15-10% goes into my “Corn Oils” jar for reuse in future spirit runs – much the same as Pugi’s pugirum recipe/method. Some of this smells/tastes really good to me, and I think it is a major benefit to the Corn Likker I am now producing, some 15 generations on.
I oak maybe 11L (3usg) at 65%abv on 10g light toast chips, 15g medium toast chips, 75g dark toast chips for a slightly lighter-than-average colour, opening the cork bung an swirling it around vigourously whenever I think about it. This is still being experimented on (and a barrel or two is in my future plans). After a month or two I start adding add distilled water in 0.5L stages per week to bring it down to 45-50%abv for use.
Friends, much more knowledgeable than I about corn whiskey, rate it very highly, and it has become my “drug of choice” – I never thought a good single malt Scotch (or Irish) would ever be replaced as my likker of choice.
Edited typo (from 80*C) to 27+*C/80+*F - It's the oak that's toasted, NOT the yeast!!!
Recipe for 46L (12usg) wash:
60L (16usg) water
1T gypsum
2t citric acid
11Kg (24lbs) cracked corn
7Kg (15lbs) table sugar
½C baker’s yeast
2t G-A enzymes
Method:
Use chlorine and chloramine-free water (I treat my town water using Potassium Metabisulphite to to remove both chlorine and chloramines)
Add 1T gypsum, stir well and aerate for 30+ mins
Place 24lb cracked feed corn in 20usg fermenter and add water to cover
Simmer 15lbs sugar in 7.5L/2usg water for 20-30 mins (with 1T citric acid added on 1st gen. - Use backset and omit citric acid in subsequent gens)
Add to the fermenter and top up with a further ~38L/10 usg water
Check pH is 4.0+ (4.5 to 5.5 range is best) - adjust up with calcium carbonate if/when required
Aerate for 30 minutes
Ensure temperature is less than 38*C (100*F).
Stop aeration and sprinkle ½ C (125mm) bakers yeast on surface
After 15 minutes add 2t G-A enzymes and stir in.
Resume aeration for 30 mins.
Cover and fit airlock. – mine bubbles (slowly) immediately. Within 60mins the fermentation is very vigourous, and complete within 3 days (though the G-A and yeast will continue a very slow fermentation from the grain bed/lees.
Maintain heat at 27*C/80+*F throughout the fermentation.
Subsequent 3 generations:
Do not remove/replace trub
Stir up all the trub vigourously at the beginning of each new fermentation
Reuse 100% of the back-set, using calcium carbonate to maintain at least 4.0pH. in wash
Cool the backset and the inverted sugar so that 38*C/100*F is not exceeded when added to fementer with water to bring up to ~46L/12usg above the corn
After 4 (or 5 maximum) generations, remove ALL the grains and trub. Add fresh corn, gypsum, yeast and G-A …..BUT….. reuse ALL the back-set from the previous generation
Always add 4 or 5L water to fermenter after removing 45L/12usg for a strip rum
Freeze ALL back-set for future use and discard grains/trub if the fermentation will not be restarted within 2 days.
Filter wash through EZ filter into boiler
I make no cuts on my strip runs using 3000w internal elements.
On a 23L pot-still spirit run I collect fores at maybe 1 drop per second using ~250w, heads at ~2 drops per second using maybe 350w. After collecting 1L I switch to my parrot, collecting in 250ml jars down to 80%abv using maybe 500w. I then increase the power to about 1200-1500w and collect in 1L jars down to 70% abv.
I then switch to 250ml jars and collect down to 60%abv. I check all the above (except the first 1L of fores/heads which goes in the “alcohol cleaner” jar) for possible blending after 2 days under a coffee filter. Unwanted heads also go into the "alcohol cleaner" jar.
From 60% down to 40% I ramp the power up to 3000w. Nothing much I like the taste/smell of here (unless I am missing something?) - It all goes into my tails jar for future refluxing.
From 40% down to 15-10% goes into my “Corn Oils” jar for reuse in future spirit runs – much the same as Pugi’s pugirum recipe/method. Some of this smells/tastes really good to me, and I think it is a major benefit to the Corn Likker I am now producing, some 15 generations on.
I oak maybe 11L (3usg) at 65%abv on 10g light toast chips, 15g medium toast chips, 75g dark toast chips for a slightly lighter-than-average colour, opening the cork bung an swirling it around vigourously whenever I think about it. This is still being experimented on (and a barrel or two is in my future plans). After a month or two I start adding add distilled water in 0.5L stages per week to bring it down to 45-50%abv for use.
Friends, much more knowledgeable than I about corn whiskey, rate it very highly, and it has become my “drug of choice” – I never thought a good single malt Scotch (or Irish) would ever be replaced as my likker of choice.
Edited typo (from 80*C) to 27+*C/80+*F - It's the oak that's toasted, NOT the yeast!!!
