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Starting My First Boka/VM Project

Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 3:54 pm
by Hi Hopes2
OK y'all;
This is the start of my first build. I've spent many a long evenings here searching and learning. This is such a great place.
I'd like to thank Samohon for the idea of the Boka/VM project and diagram information on his post. After all the research, this seem the way I would like to go.
trying for neutral spirits, good cleaning fluid, take parts apart and maybe just go into a pot still mode.
I have spent the previous few days, bending, cutting and filing copper. I haven't had soooo much fun in my shop since a year ago, when I was building wine bottle holders for family Christmas presents. Thanks to all for the great information here at HD. It takes both the Newbies and the Mentors information to make this such a valuable site.
I have made my parts with just everyday tools. Used some stuff that has been in my shop for more then 30years. (I don't throw too much away.) Figure I might can use it some day. Fortunately, I have a very big storage area.
I'll try to make notes under the pics. Haven't cleaned the copper much yet. Hope to do that a bit at a time later.
I've done a lot of lead solder on copper pipes, but moving into the still side of things I hope to get into silver solder. Looking forward to more learning.

As someone mentioned in another post, becomming one with the copper made the job easier, and more enjoyable.

Any comments on what you see would be greatly appriciated.
My Parts Thus Far
My Parts Thus Far
Lower left in the pic is the base of the colum that will attach to the 15qt keg. I used some 6ga copper wire and flattened out. Then annealed the copper (really helps working the copper into the bend around the 2" pipe.
Center is the Boka pattern on the condenser cover.
Right is the reducer to the Brass Gate Valve for the VM portion of the project. On top of the Gate Valve is the Double wound condenser 1/4" OD tubing. (Balancing the condenser on the valve was the hardest part of the picture)
In the back is a 48" Leibig cooler for the product output. Starting long, cause it is easier to shorten then it is to lengthen. I'll make adjustments after comments, or after final dry fitting.
Flange Making
Flange Making
Making the flange was quite a fun task. Just had to try it after I saw it could be done in some other post. Wish I could give the right person credit, but I did a poor job at documenting the early part of my searching. Also was able to anneal the flange end, and make easier work of bending the 2" tube. The flange is part of a 55" colum. For some reason I want to place a sight glass at the top of the packing, just to watch the reflux. With only 2" copper, it should be a nice challenge. I'll adjust the lengh probably closer to 48 inches. Again, easier to shorten if needed.
The Wooden block is part of a chopping block I made my mother while in highschool in 1973. It only lasted about 25 years before it cracked when it was dropped so I kept the pieces in case I might could use it some day. As far as I'm concerned the storage price in all my stuff was priceless.
Marking the Condenser tube
Marking the Condenser tube
I didn't have a band saw, or compound miter saw, so I chose a more basic approach. The Boka Template I found needed to be enlarge to about 107%, and then is seemed to fit the pipe just rige. When I taped the template to the tube, I just didn't think that cutting throug the tape and paper would be very clean. So, I took a broken 1/8" drill bit, put a fine point on it, and tapped holes along the lines for the template. After removing the tape and paper, the prick points were very easy to follow while using a hacksaw. A good fine tooth hacksaw made easy work of following/cutting the many point I created. Other posts said the blade was too narrow. I used 1/2" copper pipe flattened and it fit in the hacksaw slot just great.
Ready to Cut
Ready to Cut
Shown here are the many prick points I followed with the hacksaw. I did not try to cut the both sides of the flange hole at the same time. Once I cut through the first portion of the pipe, I only cut one side of the slot at a time. This made it easier to cut straight lines, instead of trying to cut both sides at the same time on opposite sides of the pipe.
Making the Cut
Making the Cut
Following the points was easy.
Ready to Silver Solder
Ready to Silver Solder
The flattened 1/2" copper pipe fit into a single hacksaw slot perfect.

Looks like I have the limit on pics.

I understand I still need to pickle the Brass Gate Valve.

Still want to build a Parrot, until I can develop my own taste, smell, identification techniques. And, still have a lot more to learn and do. But, enjoying the heck out of it. Looking forward to the silver sodering, Boka temp, and takeoff install, Keg electric element install, electronic heat controller design and build, working all the suggestions into the project.

Many thanks to all who have kept me enthused. :D
BTW, I have had no luck viewing any link to a wiki post. I have tried early posts, and later posts and various back door attempts to get into HDwiki. As well, reviewing and searching for any wiki suggestions. Anyone have and idea what button I need to push that I might have missed. :?:

HiHopes2

Re: Starting My First Boka/VM Project

Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:17 pm
by Braz
Lookin' great so far. I like a guy who doesn't throw stuff away. You could ask my wife about that. :D I still have parts for cars that I haven't owned for 40 years.

You don't REALLY need to use silver solder, unless you want to. It is pretty expensive and needs a fair amount of heat to sweat. MAPP gas at a minimum, or Oxy/acetelyne. Lead free soft solder is good enough for most copper applications. I only use silver solder when I need to join copper to stainless. (I'm guessing you have a pretty good torch since you've annealed and made an easy flange.)

Re: Starting My First Boka/VM Project

Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:40 pm
by Hi Hopes2
Braz;
Thanks for the response. I was using Mapp gas for the flange. I don't have the Mapp/Oxy system yet.

Just unsure about the leadfree solder. How easy is it to be sure it is leadfree? The leadfree solder would likely be easier if I knew I was confident about the solder. Seems so many counterfit products out these days. I could go back and search who used what brand and part #. I'm guessing McMaster Carr, or Grainger would have it. I could talk myself into it, if I can find the right product.

I could get the heating element adapter silversolderd by a friend. I was also wanting to learn how to silver solder, but that could wait until another time, cause I still don't have the right heat for it.

Thanks

HH2

Re: Starting My First Boka/VM Project

Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:47 pm
by Hi Hopes2
Here is another suggestion I didn't get in the original post.
Condenser with Mandrel
Condenser with Mandrel
I used a piece of 1-1/4" chrome plated brass sink drain for a second winding mandrel. (had it in a junk drawer) It worked great. The chrome made for easy removal, and was just the right size to go over the first winding.
Hope this helps future condenser winders. The tube is cheap if you end up buying one. Worth the trip to the store I think. :)

HH2

Re: Starting My First Boka/VM Project

Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 8:59 pm
by astronomical
solder
http://www.amazon.com/Safe-Flo-Solder-1 ... 341&sr=8-6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

great looking still

Re: Starting My First Boka/VM Project

Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:26 am
by Pop Skull
Braz wrote:Lookin' great so far. I like a guy who doesn't throw stuff away. You could ask my wife about that. :D I still have parts for cars that I haven't owned for 40 years.

You don't REALLY need to use silver solder, unless you want to. It is pretty expensive and needs a fair amount of heat to sweat. MAPP gas at a minimum, or Oxy/acetelyne. Lead free soft solder is good enough for most copper applications. I only use silver solder when I need to join copper to stainless. (I'm guessing you have a pretty good torch since you've annealed and made an easy flange.)
Braz, when you say Silver solder are you referring to the high % silver stuff? I have some 56% Ag material, but I always get confused whether people are talking about brazing / hard soldering and soft soldering with low Ag% silver like the Stay Brite solders (http://www.amazon.com/Stevens-Internati ... -1-catcorr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow). I;'ve used the safety silv and it melts at a low temperature - so just a point of confusion for me.

Re: Starting My First Boka/VM Project

Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:34 am
by Bushman
Nice job, also nice hint on the chrome sink drain for the second wrap. I have always used the cardboard method and it works great but takes some time to remove.

Re: Starting My First Boka/VM Project

Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:56 pm
by Braz
Pop Skull wrote: Braz, when you say Silver solder are you referring to the high % silver stuff? I have some 56% Ag material, but I always get confused whether people are talking about brazing / hard soldering and soft soldering with low Ag% silver like the Stay Brite solders (http://www.amazon.com/Stevens-Internati ... -1-catcorr" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow). I;'ve used the safety silv and it melts at a low temperature - so just a point of confusion for me.
It can be confusing for us amateurs - and I am as amateur as anyone on the subject. I use Safety-Silv 45 for most applications, only based on the recommendation of my welding supply guy. As far as I know "silver soldering" and "silver brazing" are the same thing.

Re: Starting My First Boka/VM Project

Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2012 6:17 pm
by Hi Hopes2
Got a pound of the Safety-Sil, and flux today.
Had a really good afternoon in the shop. Took a shot at assembly. Soldered the Condenser-top Cap and vent, the Boak Tube, and the 2"T with the VM reducer for the 1" Gatevalve together. Wasn't as bad as I feared once I got started. Hope to have Pics tomorrow. Cleaned up the copper. Am waiting for a Tri-Clamp before I solder the Flange and wire for the base-keg adapter.
:D
HH2