Home Distiller

After watching the lid on my SS Turkey Fryer start leaking, and it's now getting worse. I have decided to ditch it and build a new one. I have ordered a used SS keg off ebay (from a distributor). Going to ditch my reflux as I don't use it now. This guy is all grains . Any way, be the 15.5 keg, with 2 inch riser 90'd over to a doubler then up and out to the trusty 20' 1/2" worm. YAY! For new build, I will spread the Cu Porn as soon as I order some in.

Oh, and after reading the pot design forum, I have also decided to switch from propane to electric. My question is, can I just get someone to weld THIS! or two onto the bottom? I know it says adapter, but if a guy wanted to tig that one would it work? I like how the milkcans are ready to go on this with just a tri-clamp.

That will be where I start is keg altering when it arrives, then drop it off at welders and start to do some CU work . Thanks guys, spent many hours in the design forums last night. Glad to be a part of a great site.

Oh, one more thing... My UJSSM and the SweetFeed recipe's have turned out the best YET!!! Tried and True FTW!

The adapter you linked to is what you mount the element to. You will need to weld a triclamp ferrule to the keg. Then the adapter can be clamped to the ferrule with a triclamp and gasket.

I was looking at using the clamp and ferrules but instead i went with a stainless half coupling to be welded in in fact i ordered 2 1 for the heating element and one for a ball valve to drain with it is a lot cheaper than having to buy all the sani ferrules and clamps.

Now that you have put that, it's like a big ole slap in the face. I guess I brainfarted AGAIN..... Makes sense now. I think I'm going to do a dual, one to ramp up heating then one controlled for vapor heat. I used to could be an electrician, so I got that part under wraps . Thanks Pp, Really only want to do this once and make it user friendly via tri-clamps.

I am a electrician with a 5 year union apprenticeship and 20 years experience and a EPRI certification under my belt . a half coupling only cost $5 and you have 1/3 the welding seam with them compared to having the ferrules welded in i am curious as to how the tri clamp is more user friendly. and with the coupling you only have 1 seal to deal with you have 2 with the sani fitting.

roadgold wrote:I am a electrician with a 5 year union apprenticeship and 20 years experience and a EPRI certification under my belt . a half coupling only cost $5 and you have 1/3 the welding seam with them compared to having the ferrules welded in i am curious as to how the tri clamp is more user friendly. and with the coupling you only have 1 seal to deal with you have 2 with the sani fitting.

Well, I was in my truck when I posted this and must have not seen your input. As far as user friendly goes just to snap a triclamp around seems easy enough... As far as a half coupling I will have to do some googling, but I'm gonna act tough till I figure it out .

I will make it easy for you use this for your heating element
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-NPT-HALF-COUP ... 4cf1e14753" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
while you are at it add a extra for a drain valve
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-NPT-HALF-CO ... 4cf1e142ad" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
if you insist on a tri-clamp this is the best design i have seen for a element using a tri clamp.
Guard.html?shop_param=cid%3D10%26aid%3DEG%26
you will need to order one of these to weld to your keg.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Gallon-Keg-C ... 2318944dd0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
if you are a union member ask your local pipe fitters apprenticeship if a apprentice can do your welds for practice.

Well, I was just farting around but I did find them. I now, just think that the TriClamps look more sexy to me. I really am not even 100% on going electric. Might just keep my propane ways. I am not a Union Pipe Fitter though, but I am a Teamsters Freight guy . Maybe my BA knows some pipe fitters he could set me up with, great idea Thanks.

one other for you if you plan on using the PT100 thermocouple weld in a SS 8mm flair nut.