This question of what is a vodka can get you into a lot of heated discussion in many places. Originally the US definition stated that it had to be made from grain, as were all potable spirits. Of course this meant that many overseas vodkas were banned from import because they were often made from other substrates, such as potato starch. Tempers ran hot between the BATF (now TTB) and those overseas makers who wanted to break into the lucrative US vodka market (Vodka is the most popular liquor among Americans, who last year (2005) spent about $10.8 billion on it, according to data from the Distilled Spirits Council, an industry trade group).
Eventually sanity prevailed, and the BATF revised the definition of vodka. It now reads thus...
"Section 21, class 1(a) of Regulations No. 5 defines vodka as neutral spirits distilled from any material at or above 190 degrees of proof, reduced to not more than 110 nor less than 80 degrees of proof, and after such reduction in proof treated by one of the three methods set forth therein so that the resulting product would be without distinctive character, aroma, or taste."
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Note the use of the words "any material". This means that if all the other parts re proof, taste etc. are met, then vodka can be distilled from any substrate, be it grain, cane or beet sugar, or anything that can produce potable spirit.
However you cannot put it in a barrel, as it would pick up colour, and thus would no longer fit the definition. This was tested recently and the ruling by the TTB was this...
"Rev. Ruling 55-552
Grain Neutral Spirits Stored in Wood may not be Labeled as Vodka
Advice has been requested whether grain neutral spirits, which have obtained a light golden color from storage in wood and which are treated with carbon, may be labeled as vodka if, when bottled, the distillate retains all or part of the light golden color.
Section 21, class 1(a) of Regulations No. 5 defines vodka as neutral spirits distilled from any material at or above 190 degrees of proof, reduced to not more than 110 nor less than 80 degrees of proof, and after such reduction in proof treated by one of the three methods set forth therein so that the resulting product would be without distinctive character, aroma, or taste. That section requires that the distillate, after treatment, be stored only in metal, porcelain, or glass containers or paraffin lined tanks.
It is held that a product with a "light golden" color would not conform to the above definition. Accordingly, such a product may not be labeled as vodka.
27 U.S.C. 205; 27 CFR 5.21 (27 CFR 5.22) "
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Another ruling that's been made concerns the so-called "flavored vodkas". It reads thus...
"Rev. Ruling 56-98
Flavored Vodka
Section 21, class 1(a) of the Regulations relating to the Labeling and Advertising of Distilled Spirits, issued pursuant to the Federal Alcohol Administration Act, prescribes the standards of identity for vodka. It provides, in part, that if any flavoring material is added to the distillate it shall be designated "flavored vodka" and may be further classified with the name of the flavoring material used. Held, the use of sugar not exceeding two-tenths of one per cent and a trace amount of citric acid in the production of vodka would not materially affect the taste or change its basic character. Therefore, a product containing such ingredients within the limitations stated may be designated and labeled as vodka. However, if any flavoring ingredients are used, the product must be designated and labeled as "flavored vodka." The addition of any material to the vodka, including sugar or citric acid, will result in taxable rectification through compounding.
27 U.S.C. 205; 27 CFR 5.21 (27 CFR 5.22) "
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We must not forget to cross the taxman's palm with silver.
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