Home Distiller

Bout to get underway with this effort , malted a quantity of oats . I still can't find the DP of oat malt so I'm going to just guess that its low . I'm thinking about vaguely basing this recipe on Wineo's oat whiskey and method but going with 50/50 oat malt to rolled oats . Seems no one has posted on this anywhere so no foot prints t follow

Cool, Got a starch test kit , and some 6-row handy just in case?
Be prepared

NcHooch wrote:Cool, Got a starch test kit , and some 6-row handy just in case? Be prepared

Nup kinda figured if it all turns t poo on me I'll just boot it down to general store and get some of that Saunders malt extract but that would be only if nothin else worked , really want it to be just oats if I can . I did find out there is a mob over your way Chicago I think doing several styles of single malt oats ,Koval and they call it Lions Pride so must be doable ,... some how

I think that if you go 50/50 with the malted oats and rolled oats you should be in good shape.

Big R

thought so but dnderhead has done some research into the DP of oats and it doesn't look so good , might be a near as all malt deal . No real big deal the kids might have to start getting in to porridge when they come here to use up all these rolled oats though

you could git some enzymes for backup.

Yeah ok think I can get that tomorrow Live about 15 20 min for the regional city they got a home brew shop there spect they'd sell them there in fact I'm pretty sure the do

make it as you were,,if it dont convert,,add enzymes..better than throwing it out..and you will have a idea what/how and when.

Ok I can up the malt as in use it all I'm sure not hung up on drying any as i got a whole sack here it was 7.8 kg reckon thats something like 17lb malted so do you think it my pay to up the ratio of malt as to use it all probably make it something like 70 /30

from my understanding more malt the better.

May thanks Dnderhead I guess I will still loosely base it on wineo's method but the quantities and ratio's will be varied some what I'll report how it went , fingers crossed I won't need to adulterate it with a barley product (I hope)

a bit of encouragement..
'Malt', in the whiskey business, usually refers to malted barley. Up until the 19th century, however, Irish distillers also malted oats. E.B McGuire, in his book, Irish Whiskey (1973), reports that oats were said at the time to produce a better flavoured whiskey.

The practice of malting oats died out when a duty was imposed on malt. Since the duty was assessed on a volume basis, and since oats swelled far more during the steeping process than barley, it made economic sense to abandon oats.

Thanks yeah that is encouraging , old ppl now long dead told me the best whiskey starts with oats , If I could go back thirty yrs I'd ask can ya jus write down how ya do it before ya go , anyways I'll have a guess at it who knows might get lucky first pop

one thing with malted oats you do not have to do a glucan rest.apparently most was used when it was malted.(glucan is what makes oats/wheat/rye turn to a sticky goo ,,,"thank wallpaper paste")
you still need to heat slowly to keep it from burning,,and lots of stiring,,mite want to have something like a paint stirrer on a drill.maybe a plate under the pot (heat spreader)

Yep I got a plaster mixer I used on jack hammer (one that can also drill) to do the figs (figs are the devil to mash) might be over kill but should work and some of those near useless 2 ring camp burners should heat up real slow .

im just making sajestions..i dont like to stir for 1 hour.i dont like to be looking for a paddel or what ever 1/2 way threw a mash.having things at finger tips, even if not needed is better than looking for it when needed.

Yep I will mostly have it all set up in the middle of my not quite finished lounge room (as my still house is not fully clad yet)and just stay there with it til done . One of the bonuses of the missus leaving me is I can get away with that sorta shit now like welding in the kitchen , she just come along to drop the kids off and looked and said yeah I don't miss this bullshit too much

Ok well literally hundreds of hrs trying to find the lintner degree of oats has come to jack . However looking at the analysis of several varieties and comparing it to similar grains looks to me that the diastatic properties might not be so bad . one small malthouse claimed that some varieties approach the DP of 6 row , coase if they had writ what the DP was might of be more inclined to take it as gospel .
Basically this is my formulated recipe so far for 80 ltrs / around 20 gal
17lb malted oats , gristed
8lb rolled oats
18lb sugar
150g yeast
Mash at 140f for 1hr then 150f for 1 hr and then 160f for 1 hr allow to cool . Add sugar to hot water in the fermenter allow to cool some , add the mash to the fermenter , add cool or warm water to get to pitching temp and add the yeast
EDIT just played around with figures might do 145 +155 +165 might just convert better , thoughts ppl

the rolled oats can make your mash thick,,id do a rest between 95-113f ,then the others.

yeah ok , do you think It would be of any benefit to boil the rolled oats first to gel them a bit before adding the malt
and which temps do ya think would work better the first or second set .
Edit seems I might have made an error in my rests . oats are high in Protease thinking I might need to squeeze a rest in at somewhere between 122' and 129' thinking 1/2 hr at 113 and then1/2 hr at 125 what would you suggest

thecroweater wrote:Ok well literally hundreds of hrs trying to find the litner degree of oats has come to jack.

While it may be just a typo here, you'll have better results searching for "lintner" than "litner"... I've had similar problems, and I consider myself to be an above average speller...

Ha yep typo my spelling is not so hot , I'll fix it up

I think the enzymes from the homebrew are alpha amylase, which work between 149-167f, which will make dextrins.
You need amyloglucosidase from a distilling supply, which works below that range for a highly fermentable wort.

Here is a list of enzymes used in brewing.
http://www.cbsbrew.com/Fiches/Fiches_ht ... zymes.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

yeah I went to the hBS and said what I was doing and that I need the appropriate enzyme for a back up plan first I got blank stares but (they deal mostly with brewers) but to their credit they started going through books and eventually got on the phone and spoke to the boffins at the supply companies listed what they had in enzymes and was told what to give me for the job . It was an enzyme designed to make low carb diabetic beer but were told if my mash won't convert fully I can add it do get it done and not expect it to alter the flavor . Hoping not to need it anyway but a back up plan is a good idea

thecroweater wrote:yeah I went to the hBS and said what I was doing and that I need the appropriate enzyme for a back up plan first I got blank stares but (they deal mostly with brewers) but to their credit their started going through books and eventually got on the phone and spoke to the boffins at the supply companies listed what they had in enzymes and was told what to give me for the job . It was an enzyme designed to make low carb diabetic beer but were told if my mash won't convert fully I can add it do get it done and not expect it to alter the flavor . Hoping not to need it anyway but a back up plan is a good idea

What is the name of it? See my last post.

yeah very little detail on the packet "low carb dry enzyme" by Copper Tun . So god only knows ,but not ya normal brewing enzyme . Just what the boffins thought was the best out of what they had to do the job and I need to get cracking on it if I want to avoid drying/halting the malt

thecroweater wrote:yeah very little detail on the packet "low carb dry enzyme" by Copper Tun . So god only knows ,but not ya normal brewing enzyme . Just what the boffins thought was the best out of what they had to do the job and I need to get cracking on it if I want to avoid drying/halting the malt

You know that's for the ferment not the mash.

yeah I tries to make that point to them but they seem to think or were told it would work for the mash not so sure myself . truly hoping not to need it anyway but......EDIT hmm the more i think about it the more I think you might be right wish they'd write what it is o the packet

enzymes will work in the ferment,if below temp.but they work slower..the temps listed are the ones most efishent/fastest,anything below them will work..if temperature at some time is higher then they will be deactivated,,so once heated above the enzymes max temp.there is no going back.unless you add more enzymes.

Yes I'm thinking if that is alpha Amylase enzyme it should be good to 161'f before being denatured . Just got to get some testing iodine and I'm ready to start . I'll probably start mashing in an hr or 2 thanks again for all your assistance , will keep you posted on the progress