Home Distiller

I wanted to be able to remove cord and controller from boiler ,planned on a short pigtail and some twist loc plugs , till I saw the price 25-35$ each . How have you guys protected the end of the heating element and made a quick connection without having to unscrew the wire's

You can use heat shrink tubing, it isnt the best but it works. The adapters for my element kits are custom cut and welded at a local machine shop, that is the best/ safest way to go.

not sure but go to a auto/truck part store,,they should have a boot that goes on a plug for block heaters,this mite fit..also one for a trailer plug mite (large like trucks use)also work.

I did the heat shrink from an underground splice kit. Then came up to a cord cap M and F 120 plugs and wired those in.

The underground heat shrink works great. Damn sounds though

I'm good at making stuff , I want it small,really not to intrusive, I will post what I come up with . For the quick connection have been looking at different plugs like the one's golf carts and scrub machines use ... amps ok but not sure how voltage 48vdc vrs 240ac would work out

vinper wrote:I'm good at making stuff , I want it small,really not to intrusive, I will post what I come up with . For the quick connection have been looking at different plugs like the one's golf carts and scrub machines use ... amps ok but not sure how voltage 48vdc vrs 240ac would work out

They should work fine. The problem would be they normal only have two contacts. So something would be needed for a ground. You can get them with three conductors. Gota look a little harder. Or you can get a modular system. Where each conductor has a separate housing that will slide together to make as many connections as you want. See attached pic.

I'm assuming you are talking about SB50 connectors? The 50 is the amp rating by the way. I stock SB175 and SB350 connectors on my work van.

Here is my temp. connection a female pvc 1-1/4" conduit connector and wire clamp, they do not make this fitting for metal conduit, so I started making one from copper I took 1" pipe and split it open and welded 2 pieces together added a tab for a set screw and ground wire. Not done with it yet. But I like it will match the rest of the rig ... I ended up with twist lock connectors for the quick connection

What kind of twist locks did you find? can you post a picture?

Its an L6-30R ,These are expensive this one is 32.00. The reason I decide to use it is because I found this at garage sale for 6$ ,so I only have to buy the male plug . Personally I think the twenty amp version would have worked fine . My 5500 watt pulls 24 amps max. and you only need it there for a short time , mostly your pulling 15 amps or less.

Personally I think the twenty amp version would have worked fine

Still best to follow codes and ratings. They are there for a reason. I dont want people to start reading this shit and thinking they can under rate electrical components. Even if only a few amps.

What MK said. It's amazing how picky the insurance inspector can be after a fire.

here is connector progress , soldered on a ground wire lug and put a grommet on the wire inlet

If you got the male and female for $32 it was a bargin. I use a 30 amp twist lock on my boat. The boat receptical is $85. Shore power cords start at $65. I have repaired them before. A repair end is $25

heartcut wrote: It's amazing how picky the insurance inspector can be after a fire.

Won't matter none. Insurance will be null and void once the inspection is complete.


I agree with MK as well. It is NEVER a good idea to undersize on electrical components.

well I got the 30a male for 19.00 the female for 6.00 ,I be installing them next .... Now if you ran a 4500wtt on a 20 amp double pole breaker you could use the 20 amp connectors couldn't you

Here is how my setup ended up . I added a 1/2" 45 for the strain relief , my quick connectors . And I put my controller on a work table and clamp the wires in place so the wires cant be tripped on and pulled to the floor

How the heck did you get the element wired in that tiny space?

If you notice there is just enough slack to slid the copper back toward the quick connection ,then access the element . I did make it to short but I dind't want to cut another foot of my feeder

I found some people using these. which are cheap and compact http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Swi ... fe9Q%3d%3d" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow