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Pot still design

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 5:24 pm
by rhok
just wondering what you think, I am super new at this and I would like to make a single run whiskey/rum/brandy.
water distiller.jpg

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:22 pm
by fatman
Good job with the sketch up, but now your going to have to give these guys some dimensions so they can get you on the right track?

Size of boiler, take off pipe, height, etc. ..............

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 6:55 pm
by BareKnuckles
Details please!!!!

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:01 pm
by Usge
Keg with 4" ferrule, 4" - 2" stainless reducer, 2" pipe with ferrules on both ends...2" deplegmator, 180 over to shotgun condenser or liebig, or graham condenser. You could do this modularly using tri-clamps to connect everything making it like lego to mod.

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 11:45 pm
by ro palinca
BareKnuckles wrote:Details please!!!!
+1

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:16 am
by rhok
I would be attaching it to a sanke keg, either a 1/2 barrel or a slim quarter, which ever is easier to get, with an electric coil ( ????watts) with a rheostat controller. I am not sure where I would place a thermometer but I figure somewhere in the elbow at the top.
waterdistiller 2.jpg
Rhok

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 1:42 pm
by ro palinca
I like your sketch, but it is not complete; I will assume that you don't use any diaphragm/scrubbers etc. in the vapor path. If this is the case, then move the angle of condenser from 90 to 45 degree and it will work ok if you provide sufficient amount of cooling water.

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:03 am
by sambedded
If you are not using packing inside you column you don't need to have it 3". For 3KW of heating power 1" or even 3/4 is OK.I wold make dephlegmator at least 15" and increase whole column height to 30-40". For 3Kw condenser should be no less than 30" long. For condenser it better to have minimal gap between internal/outer pipe. So, use 1/2 and 3/4 pipes for it.

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:21 am
by Hawk_
This is exactly what my new tower is only instead of one bubble plate at the bottom I have 2. I didnt find it nessesary to have a pipe with packing above it as the plates are copper. Just ran a watermelon brandi in it the other day and it came out full of flavor.

The way you have the diagram is the way I have it set up for neutrals. Pipe above the bubble plates full of copper packing. I ran 94% with ease at nearly 2L an hour. With some adjustments to the bubblers I hope to get 3-4L per hour.

Here it is set up for whiskey and brandi

Image

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 7:59 am
by astronomical
That definately aint no pot still... That being said, the liebig is rather small for running in potstill mode, but, it may suffice when using the dephlagmater

whatcha trying to make?

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 12:05 pm
by Hawk_
astronomical wrote:That definately aint no pot still... That being said, the liebig is rather small for running in potstill mode, but, it may suffice when using the dephlagmater

whatcha trying to make?
Are you talking to rhok or me?

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:47 pm
by rhok
I am looking to build a still which can be used for several types of spirits ie. Brandy, wiskey, rum and at a reasonable rate and quality. Other than that I am very new at this and open to any and all suggestions.

Re: Pot still design

Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 11:57 pm
by Usge
Pot still. Best is copper from the boiler up to lynearm....stainless from there on out (ie., condenser, parrot, etc). Best is squat tank and open..with taper to the condenser over length.

That's the best you can do. From there...we all make compromises...based on every thing from logistics to money to (etc).