Home Distiller

hey there,
I am considering switching from an open flame still to an electric setup, and would like basic advice for someone who hasn't done this before. Will I have to put holes in my keg? what are the different components invloved (element, controller, anything else?) does the element go inside of the keg or outside? what are the pros and cons of the various setup choices that seem to be out there? I heard mention of harvesting parts from an old electric stove- is this safe/advisable? Are there any step by step build photo series of putting an electric heating system into a 15 gallon keg? is electric heat even a good choice for a half barrel, and what are the comparative approx. energy consumption of electric vs gas vs wood heat? there seems to be a lot of posts on specific controller setup topics but evey one i open immediately seems to launch into complex issues that are all greek to me. Maybe I havent dug deep enough. Thanks for any advice!

best way i reckon is to weld a socket on the side of your keg down low



then use a screw in element around 2400W (240V) for 50L is enough




and have it wired to a cable with plug with a nice safe housing over the back of the element
use larger than need wire thickness


then it's just plug in and go (this one has two)

once you up and running then start looking at power control

the screw in allows you to easily swap out the elements if needed to something else
get a second socket put in for a drain

Prairiepiss has an excellent thread on this setup. He uses a router speed controller. Search his threads or just search for router speed controller. I'm actually in the process over converting as we speak.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

thanks for your help fellas, sometimes the biggest challenge for me is finding the starting line.

My old 110v setup thread can be found in the new distiller reading lounge.

Here is what I would recommend. A 5500w 220v element with a phase angle controller. MK makes a nice one. This is if you have access to a 220v plug. This would be the best setup to give you the most. It van also be setup to run on 110v but would be 1375w. If money is an issue then my setup is a good cheap alternative. But I would still make it so you could easily upgrade to 220v later. If your electricly inclined there are some good threads in building a controller. And a controller is a must. No mater what kind of still you run. That is if you want the best performance you can get.

There are many ways to mount the element. The one posted above is about as basic as it gets. And works well. There is a bolt on flange. And there is a thread on it somewhere. You can go with a 2" triclamp ferrule welded in with a triclamp ferrule element adapter. Few sites sell these setups. Pretty nice. I have just installed a different method on my new brew kettles that I haven't posted yet. I used a 1" NPT coupler for easy removal of the element. Not that that is needed. I just wanted the option of easy upgrade or change out. And I had the parts.

So you have many options. It all depends on what you have available to you.

McMaster-Carr has the correct SS 1" locknut for heating elements. Weld it on an go. Or you can find complete kits for right at $300 with RTD probe and alarm etc.