1/4 keg Heating Element?

[Redeye]

I am looking to convert my 1/4 keg boiler to electric. Most of the elements talked about fit the full size kegs. I was just going to buy one of those and a bend it up slightly and just leaving enough room to be able to tighten it without it hitting the bottom. I know that is overkill for a small keg but i didnt want underkill if you know what i mean. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Maybe if i understood what wattage would be enough to boil about 5 gallons of water i would be fine. I am going to be using the HF controller. I found this on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camco-02203-200 ... 53f5431937 This is 2000 watts with a minimal of 9 inch tank diameter. Thats a 2500 watts under the normal ones that are talked about on HD. Thank you for your help

[Coyote]

You can buy short elements for 220 volt and run them on 110 if you like

Coyote

[Prairiepiss]

2000 watt on 110v is more then most home circuits can handle. Most circuits are 15 amp. You would need to make sure you have a 20 amp circuit to run it. Safely. A2000 w element on 110 will draw 18 amps. 1500 watt will run on a 15 amp circuit. 1500 w on 110v is 13 amps. you could run two 1500 watt elements. Just make sure you plug them into two separate 15 amp circuits.

[Redeye]

I would definitely run it on a 20 amp circuit with 10/2 wiring. If I ran to elements that would mean i would need 2 controllers. Thats what i have run in my workshop.

[Redeye]

I have read your Mr P's 110v Harbor Freight controller duel element setup completely a few times now i think i am ready to convert. I have the HF controller and i am starting to put the larger heatsink on it. I build PC's so i have alot of these laying around

[rad14701]

With two elements most folks run one with full mains power and one through a controller...

[Redeye]

So basically one is directly connected to an outlet. Will that scorch the wash with it on full
Power just wondering? I just want to make sure I am understanding that correctly. I have been reading so much sometimes things start to run together. And I am a measure twice cut once kinda guy. Don't like to make unnecessary mistakes. I know you and prairie have been doing this stuff for a while so I am going to listen to what ever input you guys have thank you.

[hilbilly]

I recently converted a pony keg 8 gal (32 l) to electric and used 2 1500W 120V elements and they are the short ones. I put one on each side of the keg so they are pointing at each other and there is enough room so they don't come close to touching. I run the 2 elements on 2 different circuits. One element is controlled by the HF controller and the other is just run full power for heat ups. I have found that the best set up for my outfit is to run both elements at full power until the wash starts to boil and then I just unplug one and run the still at 1500W. This is for a 2" Boka with a 50" column that is packed to the top and well insulated. The keg is also insulated. I also have a pot still that is used for stripping runs and I use 3000W for that. With this setup it takes about 40 minutes to come to a boil.

I have found that I do not need to use the HF controller but I am still glad I have it. I am relatively new to this hobby too and only have about 6 or 7 spirit runs under my belt. And about 3 times that many stripping runs. Anyways that is my experience with my setup. Your setup may operate differently.

Edit - if I was to start using the pot still for running flavored spirits then I am sure I would need to use the HF controller to get the heat lower but for neutrals, which is what I make, I don't need to use the controller.

[Redeye]

Thank you hillbilly I will do that. I was just at Home Depot today and they only have the 2000watt ones. If I run one direct for heat up and the other on the HFC I think that should be fine. What do you think?

[Prairiepiss]

The HF controller can't handle the load of a 2000 watt element. It's only rated at 15 amps.

[Redeye]

Thank your prairie I will find the 1500's on line or check lowes tommorrow. I want it to be right. Thank you.

[Redeye]

This is where i got confused i thought if i was only hooking it up to 110v it would not run at full power.....



Mr P's 110v Harbor Freight controller duel element setup.
by Prairiepiss » Sun Mar 04, 2012 3:44 pm

--MOD EDIT--
Here are instructions for modifying a common router speed controller for use as a 110v electric heat controller. Please read and understand what you are doing before attempting. Improper use could result in loss of life or property.


I have had a lot of inquiries about my heating elements and controller setup as of lately. So I figured I would post a rundown of what and why's. I posted this in my build thread. And thought it may be seen more if it had its own thread.

I am only providing this as an alternative to a 220v phaseangle setup. Or any controller builds available on HD. The phaseangle controller at 220v would be one of the best setups you could use. So if you have 220v available I would suggest that controller over my setup any day. It can be used on 110v also.
viewtopic.php?f=46&t=17383

I opted to go with the 110v setup because of one main reason. I didn't have good access to 220v to run my still. I currently live in a mobile home. Not much room. Less room to be stealthy. So I opted to go 110v. Cost was another factor. The Harbor Freight controller was $17.99. Had to at least try it. And simplicity plug and play. So I thought. But found out later not a good idea with this controller. More on that in a bit.
THIS SECTION HERE
Ok on to my current setup. I have 2 5500w 220v elements mounted in my 15.5 gal keg. One is a straight one and the other one is of the wavy type. The 5500w 220v elements will run at approx 1375w in 110v. I mounted the lower one as low as I could in the keg. Taking into account it is the wavy one and needs a wider path to be screwed in. The upper one is just above it so to give me enough clearence that they won't touch. With this mounting configuration it takes approx 5 gallons to just cover the elements. So 6 gallons is what I figure for the minimum amount of water that needs to be in the boiler to run both elements. And keep them covered.

[Redeye]

Ok the Homedepot by my work had the 1500 watt shorties. So now i am just waiting on the 2nd locknut from bargainfittings.com.

[Redeye]

Ok got my nuts mounted and every thing is running. I am running it now I started both 1500 watt elements off at full blast. I believe it scorched it a bit. I am getting a slight burnt taste. I think I am going to run the one on the controller 3/4 next time until the wash heats up a bit. Than kick the other one on when it gets heated up a bit. Hopefully keep it from scorching. Thank you everyone for your help. Now it is time to play with some settings.