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Thought I'd toss together a parts list for a controller build. This one will assume 240volts
To start, you need the main "controller"
This is the one I use, it is tested working by several members and easy to build around
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Voltage-Res ... m_sbs_hi_2

you also need a potentiometer, this one is a cheapie but should work just fine. I would order 2 or 3 just to be safe
http://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Electronics ... entiometer

next we need something to house it all, any small to medium sized electrical panel will work. Mine just happens to be an alarm box. Others have successfully stuffed everything into a PVC junction box


In order to power our controller we need some 240volt input. I solved this by using a prebuilt dryer connect like this. It is 10/3 wire, this is good for 30 amps depending on run length etc. Be safe, do the math including the run length to your plug in itself


after the box you need some more 10/3 wire to run to your keg. Use the shortest length you can get away with within reason. you could actually connect directly to the element on your keg but I chose to put in a disconnect with 30amp rated plug ends.

make sure your plugs are rated for the amperage.

This all the basic parts you need for a controller. Allot will find they want to add a fan to help cool things. I have added a simple computer fan to mine. Some find that good ventilation of the box is enough. Your mileage may vary.
I have also added an amp/volt meter to mine so I can effectively set my power to the same spot time after time. It's an easy addition after your controller is built.

Next I will do up a simple wiring diagram to show the hookup

this is an extremely simplefied schematic, as simple as it gets but should get you a working controller




If the box you are using is metal, ensure it is grounded as well.

One thing to keep in mind...
a lot of places have 4 wires in the 240volt circuit, black, red, white and green or bare. The green is your ground. The white is a neutral or return for making a 120volt circuit from 240. It is not used in a 240volt circuit and should be securely capped and taped.

I have left many small details out, if you cant wrap your head around what's shown and build a controller maybe you should seek someone to help you. No offense intended, just some folks shouldn't mess around with electricity. You know who you are.

would love to keep comments on this to a minimum in order to keep it clean for those wanting to do a build. If you see an error please let me know and I'll fix it

Looks great BB, should help out a lot of people getting started!

You forgot about the ROW(rest of the world)! 240 wiring and power worldwide is different than in the U.S.

With modern 240v in the US, we have two(2) Hot conductors of 120v @ 60hz phased 180 degrees apart, a Neutral , and a Ground. In the case of the outdated 3-wire 240v, two(2) Hot conductors of 120v, and a Ground.

When the two 120v conductors are circuited through a motor or resistance load, you get 240v.


However, ...most of the rest of the world has one(1) hot conductor of 240v @ 50hz, a Neutral, and a Ground. So they would wire circuits like we wire 120v in the US. The one Hot, circuited via the Neutral gives them 240v.

Kind of a big difference, so perhaps you should designate somewhere in any circuitry schematics, that your guide is for a US build of an element controller, to avoid a bit of confusion for the ROW. Their parts list would be the same, but their circuitry would be a little different.

Soggy Bottom Boy wrote:

Kind of a big difference, so perhaps you should designate somewhere in any circuitry schematics, that your guide is for a US build of an element controller, to avoid a bit of confusion for the ROW.

Controller schematic for both described cases absolutely the same. Only wall plugs are different.

sambedded wrote:

Soggy Bottom Boy wrote:

Kind of a big difference, so perhaps you should designate somewhere in any circuitry schematics, that your guide is for a US build of an element controller, to avoid a bit of confusion for the ROW.

Controller schematic for both described cases absolutely the same. Only wall plugs are different.

That's why the North American system was described, thought that was apparent.

sambedded wrote:
Controller schematic for both described cases absolutely the same. Only wall plugs are different.

Technically, not really the case for the input conductors, we have four wires with modern 240v here in the US. You have to know which wires are needed to be hooked to the SSR and element.

Don't you consider the line input voltage to be part of a controller schematic?

We use two 120v hots, and a ground for fault safety. The two hots are phased 180 degrees apart to make 240v when completing the circuit with both wires.

(...and a Neutral circuited to one of the hot conductors if any 120v is needed in the box, say, for a 120v fan or indicator light)
If we used one hot, the Neutral, and the Ground for fault safety, there would only be 120v to the SSR. Both of the conductors that are hooked to the element need to be hot 120v wires in order to get 240v. I would say that the conductor input should be part of the schematic, ....from the wall outlet to the element (and Ground to the boiler).

Here are some pics of partial sketches showing the difference at the line voltage input end of the circuit. They include an on-off switch though.
In the following two sketches, either one of the two hots goes through the SSR & on through to the element, and the other hot goes directly to the other element connection.
The note in the above sketch about adding a 120v components should read: "You can not safely add 120v components with a 240v 3-wire voltage supply by using the Ground to complete the 120v circuit."


European 240v uses one hot, and the Neutral to the element, and a Ground for fault safety. Only one of the conductors hooked to the element is a hot leg, the other is the Neutral.
In this sketch, the one hot leg goes through the SSR & on through to the element, and the Neutral goes directly to the other element connection.
Remember, he started this thread to make it easier for people with limited knowledge to understand the circuitry so they can build a controller. It really helps to know which specific wire goes where.

[/hijack]

Soggy Bottom Boy wrote: Remember, he started this thread to make it easier for people with limited knowledge to understand the circuitry so they can build a controller. It really helps to know which specific wire goes where.

I wouldn't recommend to start DIY controller for people with circuitry knowledge so limited that they don't know how to wire a plug. It's very dangerous. If you mess up with plug wiring you may end up with live voltage on your rig body. And this way you will have everything ready for self-electrocution.

the original post did not go into 120volt applications nor was it intended to. it was a simple diagram of a 240volt controller that will work with 4 wire, 3 wire North American or European. Simple...
Anyone who cannot decipher a schematic symbol for ground shouldn't be attempting this.

The Euro 220 volt will indeed hook up the same, the fact that we use 2 hots phased apart means nothing to the circuit.

Jimdo, feelin your pain my man, my apologies for the interruption on your thread.

bellybuster wrote: This all the basic parts you need for a controller. Allot will find they want to add a fan to help cool things. I have added a simple computer fan to mine. Some find that good ventilation of the box is enough. Your mileage may vary.
I have also added an amp/volt meter to mine so I can effectively set my power to the same spot time after time. It's an easy addition after your controller is built.

Next I will do up a simple wiring diagram to show the hookup

this is an extremely simplefied schematic, as simple as it gets but should get you a working controller

Could you post a pic of your finished controller and link to the amp/volt meter you purchased? I'm thinking this will be my controller upgrade down the road!

GM

Thanks Mulekicker for really mentoring in this area! I've read that post about a hundred times!

I was really hoping to see the ameter used for this project (or another 40am version). I'm pretty sure I remember reading that you don't want to wire it after the SSR cause the way it switches off and on would damage the ameter. My reading seemed to have mixed opinions on which ammeter worked better. Many use analog and a few members seem to have luck with the digital ones.

I've also been trying to examine how different people do their internal wiring. I found the electric brewery sites and like a lot of wiring techniques i saw on them. I wanna make my next controller the most "professional" I can and learn learn learn. Know what i mean?