Inline Parrot build
Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 5:46 am
So I got tired on my first parrot, http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 32&t=35997 for many reasons but mostly because the beak that came off the cup of the parrot went out horizontal with a slight down slope, this made the collection point for whatever vessel I was using inconsistent and dependent on the flow speed of the distillate, ie if I was running the still hot the distillate would arc as it came off the beak and be a different point then if it was just dripping. For this reason I wanted a beak that came off the cup for a bit and then curved straight down, making the collection point the same no matter how hard I was running the still. I also wanted the parrot inline/attached to my condenser/still thinking that by doing this I am making my stilling environment more safe not having something that is not anchored. This meant that the parrot that was attached/inline with the condenser on my Pot Still (#1) had to be modular/detachable like the rest my pot still and be able to be stored away outta sight.
Besides being modular/detachable I also wanted the parrot to be able to drain off the foreshots (or anything I didnt want) without them contaminating the column of the parrot. After searching around at what other had done I decided on putting a drain valve on the bottom of the parrot (kind of copied the parrots from retail sites).
The first design problem that encountered was that I needed a valve at the bottom of the parrot that when closed was as the exact level of the bottom of the parrot. This in my mind ruled out any needle valves, ball, gate, ect. as I thought to easily attach any of those to the bottom of my parrot (without milling them) that they would all have a little reservoir to collect distillate and possibly contaminate my runs. So I looked through a bunch of my hardware and found that I had a few 1/4" NPT drain cocks that I had from replacing drains valves on my air compressors and vacuum pumps. I thought these would be perfect since they screw in exposing holes/drains on either side of the screw and when closed are flush with the top of the threads.
Here is the almost finished parrot (minus cosmetic work) and Ill explain how I made this and my reasoning.
After figuring out the specifics of my design the first thing I needed to do was put some 1/4" NPT threads into a leg of 1/2" T. This will be the bottom part of the take off tube (down spout) that attaches to the column or body of parrot and allow the foreshots to be drained off.
I coiled some 14 gauge copper wire around some 3/8" pipe to make the filling for my 1/4" NPT threads in the bottom leg of T.
I made this coil about the same size as the threads of my drain cock. After cutting the coil to length I inserted it into the bottom leg of the T that I was using as the drain I generously soldered the whole thing in place making sure to fill the spaces between the wire with solder.
(Note that that before any step that would involve soldering/sweating, I clean and flux before the parts are assembled).
I measured the length of the threads on the drain cock and then grinded down the leg of a T to that length. I used a 1/4" NPT tap to then make perfect threads into the solder/wire/filler that I had just made.
I know there are 1/4" NPT fitting that can be bought and I have used them in the past, but after reading a post from Rad about how he makes all his fitting and that with a little selection of different size wire and/or cutting up some tube and pounding it flat, you can pretty much make any connection you need and after thinking about this and getting a little comfortable with copper, it made perfect sense to me and that I should start working copper to alter/make whatever I might need instead of being dependent on off the shelf fittings.
With this said I think since most people probably dont have a 1/4" NPT tap sitting around, so the reason I used 14 gauge wire and coiled it around 3/8" pipe is that this inserted into a 1/2" fitting would come very close to the the thread count/pattern of a 1/4" NPT thread and I think one could screw a fitting in and not need a tap.
The rest of the build was pretty straight forward.
The parrot uses a easy flange to attach to still. This made my choice of pipe for the down spout to the drain/parrot limited to 1/2" as this what is at the end of my Liebig and if I used anything smaller it would have been more work.
It comes off the the condenser and then goes straight down to the T and connects to a piece of 1" pipe that I cut a hole in the side of to fit the the circumference of the connecting leg of the T and used some scrap copper that I pounded out flat to make a bottom.
Then it goes straight up for about 12"-14" or so, long enough to submerge most hydrometers almost completely, and connecting to a short piece of 1 1/2" pipe for the cup. I used some 6 gauge wire to make the connection between the cup and column of the parrot (very similar to making Easy Flanges). I also soldered the down spout to the cup making the everything very solid and secure. For the beak I used a piece of 3/8" pipe in the shape and distance from the cup that I wanted (far enough away from the body to allow carboys/big containers possible for collection), exiting straight down with a 60* angle cut in the spout to the inside making a point for the distillate to drip off.
With inline or connected parrot's they need a vent, otherwise the output will fluctuate and surge and possibly be dangerous. I decided to put my vent in the highest point of the parrot, which is at the 90* connection from the still to the down spout. I soldered in piece of 1/4" tubing for a vent that also serves as a place to insert a thermometer and measure the temp of the distillate in the parrot, allowing me to accurately know my proof in real time.
Here is the finished (almost, minus polishing) parrot, a 90 degree fitting that allows me to adjust the the parrot off the condenser to make it vertical and some cork gaskets that go between the connections (since the parrot and fitting are modular/removable the gaskets need to be replaced on occasion).
I have a bunch of photos that Ive taken on how to make a gasket cutting die, jig, tool that Ill show if anyone is interested.
Comments, Questions and Criticism Welcome,
Butterman
Besides being modular/detachable I also wanted the parrot to be able to drain off the foreshots (or anything I didnt want) without them contaminating the column of the parrot. After searching around at what other had done I decided on putting a drain valve on the bottom of the parrot (kind of copied the parrots from retail sites).
The first design problem that encountered was that I needed a valve at the bottom of the parrot that when closed was as the exact level of the bottom of the parrot. This in my mind ruled out any needle valves, ball, gate, ect. as I thought to easily attach any of those to the bottom of my parrot (without milling them) that they would all have a little reservoir to collect distillate and possibly contaminate my runs. So I looked through a bunch of my hardware and found that I had a few 1/4" NPT drain cocks that I had from replacing drains valves on my air compressors and vacuum pumps. I thought these would be perfect since they screw in exposing holes/drains on either side of the screw and when closed are flush with the top of the threads.
Here is the almost finished parrot (minus cosmetic work) and Ill explain how I made this and my reasoning.
I coiled some 14 gauge copper wire around some 3/8" pipe to make the filling for my 1/4" NPT threads in the bottom leg of T.
(Note that that before any step that would involve soldering/sweating, I clean and flux before the parts are assembled).
With this said I think since most people probably dont have a 1/4" NPT tap sitting around, so the reason I used 14 gauge wire and coiled it around 3/8" pipe is that this inserted into a 1/2" fitting would come very close to the the thread count/pattern of a 1/4" NPT thread and I think one could screw a fitting in and not need a tap.
The rest of the build was pretty straight forward.
The parrot uses a easy flange to attach to still. This made my choice of pipe for the down spout to the drain/parrot limited to 1/2" as this what is at the end of my Liebig and if I used anything smaller it would have been more work.
It comes off the the condenser and then goes straight down to the T and connects to a piece of 1" pipe that I cut a hole in the side of to fit the the circumference of the connecting leg of the T and used some scrap copper that I pounded out flat to make a bottom.
With inline or connected parrot's they need a vent, otherwise the output will fluctuate and surge and possibly be dangerous. I decided to put my vent in the highest point of the parrot, which is at the 90* connection from the still to the down spout. I soldered in piece of 1/4" tubing for a vent that also serves as a place to insert a thermometer and measure the temp of the distillate in the parrot, allowing me to accurately know my proof in real time.
Here is the finished (almost, minus polishing) parrot, a 90 degree fitting that allows me to adjust the the parrot off the condenser to make it vertical and some cork gaskets that go between the connections (since the parrot and fitting are modular/removable the gaskets need to be replaced on occasion).
Comments, Questions and Criticism Welcome,
Butterman
Gotta weld mine up today but I got all the pieces ready yesterday! Will post a pic up when I mount it to the still. Your Fabrication skills are excellent!