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I'm in the process of gathering all the materials for my first still build. I’m looking at buying copper pipe from Menards. They have 2”x5’ section of pipe in either type DWV for $40.99, type L for $68.99, and type M for $57.49. My plan is to buy 1 section and build a boka and a pot still using a 15.5 keg. Which type should I use?

All types are suitable for boka. So buy the cheapest one.

Are all types ok for a pot still as well? from my understanding the different types just mean different wall thickness for higher pressures.

Never built a boka but the DWV is a drain, waste and vapor pipe. When copper was cheap is used to be put in houses for plumbing vents and such. I would use L or M. I'm not saying DVM would not work. Its just real thin. Your pices sound a little pricey. I would check ebay or amazon or local scrap metal yard to save a little $. L and M are wall thickness.

DWV is fine for any still we'll be building, even 4". Good advice about the scrap yard, I've done well in those.

+1 almost all my stills are built from scrap

Thanks for the clarification. what's the typical price for 2" L or M pipe by the foot? I thought the prices were reasonable with no shipping costs

I think they are high but I am a cheap ass and I over do over build 100% of everything.

I'm the same way. But I'd rather overbuild something and make it last rather than redoing it a couple times in the future.

Isn't there a thread in the must read new distiller reading lounge pretty much titled what copper to use? I know its a sticky around here somewhere.

Copper is copper.

DVW pipe has a larger ID,so if you plan on soldering a tri-clamp ferule on the copper it will be too loose of a fit. Don't ask me how I know that

cornsqueezer wrote:DVW pipe has a larger ID,so if you plan on soldering a tri-clamp ferule on the copper it will be too loose of a fit. Don't ask me how I know that

This depends on the Ferrule manufacture. There are many accounts of Ferrules working perfectly good in DWV pipe. The OD of the Ferrules aren't all the same.

I already checked the must read section before I posted it. would you have worry about the thin copper pipe warping over time due to the heat of the still? especially at the flange area where it attaches to the keg.

I would say not, it might be easier to ding but not warp

ANY copper tube is fine for building a still and warpage should never be an issue... If it was then sweat soldering would cause it to warp, not operating the still... Outside diameters are consistent so it's the inside diameter that varies based on wall thickness... The same copper fittings fit all of the different types of copper tube...

ok, thanks. time to start gathering materials

big what you gonna gather pipe wise?

I built a 3" boka last year with DVW, saved a bundle on dollars, works great, just treat it tenderly, i know, i banged mine one time and it got a small dent but functionally it is excellent.

now i have a large chunk of L grade 4" for my next ... instrument... and that stuff is heavy duty. we will see how it goes with that.

good luck.

Rastus

Not sure I would use DWV copper from a scrap yard. As a plumber I see first hand what people put down these pipes. Cleanable?? maybe, but I would never take the chance....one thing to keep in mind on pipe/tube sizing...tubing is sized on OD, pipe is sized on ID (std schedule/ type M/ect)..ID's on pipe/tube will change biased on light or heavy wall/schedule. A 2" tube tri clamp will fit nicely inside 2" type M (OD = ID), fit lose inside type DWV (thinner wall is compensated on the ID of the pipe). Just my 2 bits...

I agree, Ozone, but all the scrap pipe I've bought has been new, cutoffs and such.

I called around all the local scrap yards and couldn't find any copper pipe so I am just going to order mine from menards. it may cost a little more but that's the only option I really have. i'm also having a tough time finding a 15.5 gal keg in my area as well.

craigslist. Be patient someone will list one

I ran into the same confusion looking for copper to build my still.

I did research on the different classifications. First thing i learned is that copper is copper is copper. The different classifications refer to thickness and hardness of the pipe itself. I just went with the cheapest pipe i could find. When it arrived, it all seemed in good shape to me. Good thickness, good quality, i don't have any complaints.

There is hard copper as in sticks like most do plumbing with and soft copper as in rolls of copper like you make coils from or heating and air or ice makers on the frige or even gas pipe. Different classification refer to thicknesses not quality. The thicknesses are usually for pressure that might be put on the pipe or applications. I don't know the chemical make up of hard copper or soft copper but I would not think it is the same. I could be wrong. It could be the same if we are talking annealing it but I don't think so. Just my opinion. I offer no warranty with my opinion!

bighuss14 wrote:I called around all the local scrap yards and couldn't find any copper pipe so I am just going to order mine from menards. it may cost a little more but that's the only option I really have. i'm also having a tough time finding a 15.5 gal keg in my area as well.

The only plumbing supply outlet that carried 2" copper in our area (that would sell less than 20') carried Type M... I think it was $10/ft. The copper pipe is the single most expensive piece in my Boka. Type M is very thick and I had to buy a butane torch to solder it... my propane torch would not get hot enough (could be my torch... others report success using propane).

Keep an eye on Craigslist for a keg and be ready to bargan on the price... folks expect to get a lot for them in my area ($50+). Post a listing that you're looking for a keg... that's how I found mine and got a decent deal on it ($35). I made an easy flange, PTFE gasket, and use a tri-clamp for my keg connection.

Keep it safe!
John.

you know, I see the appeal of a keg. Stainless steel, solid contruction, but, I'll never get one. Not being able to easily get inside the can for cleaning purposes just doesn't work for me....cutting a hole in the top doesn't appeal either....

I find it simple.to clean, were not brewing beer so no need to be a clean freak.

googe wrote:I find it simple.to clean, were not brewing beer so no need to be a clean freak.

I'm not a clean freak, but, i would prefer to be able to stick my hand inside with a scrubby, and make sure it's clean.

There is no need to scrub a boiler. Unless you scorched something in it. A good rinse with hot water is all that is needed. The hot backset is a good cleaner. That's why many toss their Scrubbers in it. To clean them. Then a good rinse and they are nice and clean.

A lot of people get fixated on this. For no good reason.

Doesn't steam and boiling slightly acidic wash get the inside clean enough...??? Don't think a problem into being when there isn't one to begin with... Take off the apron, Nancy, the boiler is clean enough...