Home Distiller

I was wondering what is the best material to make a still?
I was thinking on Stainless Steel but I ask this because I see that many stills are made using cooper as primary metal.
Is cooper for anything reason necessary?

Thanks in advance

copper helps remove some of the off flavors.. and nasties that you dont want in there ... if you decide to go with SS it might be a good idea to use a couple copper scrubbers in there somewhere..

Now, that´s clear

Thanks a lot.

Copper removes sulphates on contact. If you use stainless steel, you'll still want your spirit coming into contact with some copper at some point in the process.

That’s perfect
My condenser will be on copper, hope this help to remove these sulphates.

Thanks,

Copper, while safe, and preferred, to put in the vapor trail, may not hold up as well if it is submerged in the boiling mash. Copper will etch in a highly acid environment, as will aluminum. Stainless steel is preferred as a boiler because it is easier to clean and will stand up to many, many uses.

make sure you do not use solder which contains lead when you work your copper!

NO LEAD IN THE SOLDER

I am looking at building a pot still and running scotch 99% of the time. I love the look of an all copper still, but will just having the non-boiler portion copper be more than enough for sulfate reduction?

In a similar vane, I seem to be a bit leary going with a keg with a sanikey/2" hole. I really have this desire to be able to get into the boiler to clean it well with a good 12" hole. Do I really need to fret over this?

Most of what I make is Scotch in a pot still rig like you are describing. It has a SS boiler and short copper column and copper liebig condenser. No problems with sulphides just sweet malt whisky.

Duds, you got a photo of your column?

I would be interested too in what sort of wash/mash you are using cos I am a scotch/whiskey fan as well
pm me if you think this may hi-jack the thread

duds, what's your take on the 2" sanikey hole vs a larger cleaning/access hole?

Yeah, I will 2nd the request for a photo.

Hookline
I've got photos but still have to post them to a site so they can be viewed here.

Alchemist
I'm using a 25 litre SS paint tin type boiler from Still Spirits so the whole lid comes off. In your situation, well it comes back to what you intend making because if you get anything burnt on, a 2" hole is hard to get through.

Duds, I think I said (could have been another thread), but mostly if not exclusively scotch style whiskeys. Am I apt to burn those? Seems like maybe. Maybe more to the point, what tends to burn and require heavy cleaning? I don't require seeing that in my reading, but hell, I've read reams lately

I will have a look and still spirits - thanks for the lead.

If you let the mash settle out properly before you decant into the boiler you shouldn't have any problems. Just make sure you clean the boiler out as soon as you have finished distilling so that none of the foam has a chance to stick to the sides.

Damn that was fast. Thanks. Sounds like a plan, or at least the knowledge I need. I am a long time home brewer and am kind of obsessive about cleaning my equipment properly (hence the questions) and immediately.

I asked this somewhere else, but haven't yet got a response (I think it was overlooked in the banter). Why doesn't it seem to be traditional to boil your wort for scotch mashes? Is there any reason not too? Seems an especially nice way to keep the boiler clean.

You know, I have seen a LOT about how hard you folks are on newbies, but I have to say you have been great to me. Thanks!

And I am going to delicately bump the boil question, but have another if anyone with experience knows.

Can you solder Stainless and copper? I saw no brass and stainless, but don't recall if stainless is solderable.

Alchemist wrote:And I am going to delicately bump the boil question, but have another if anyone with experience knows.

Can you solder Stainless and copper? I saw no brass and stainless, but don't recall if stainless is solderable.

Sure can with right solder and flux,

I came by a good amount of scrap stainless. This is what I did with it.
I the album I show that I could weld the 22 gauge but too difficult for for this project. It is all constructed from 22 ga. except for the bottom which is 18.
It is all soft soldered with lead free silver content tin. The structural part is stainless rivets, bucked in the aircraft style.

That's nice Pint. I wish I had even a percentage of your metalworking skill, lol.

~r~

Man, that is some sweet work.

OK, I see you did that (at least show it) with a soldering iron. No flame? Is that what makes is soft soldered or something else?

When you solder a long seam, like down the side of the boiler, do you work a few inches at a time or get all of it hot?

See this post for the explaination of soldering stainless steel sheet.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 52#6729452