Still built, trial run complete, appreciate advice
Posted: Wed May 30, 2007 10:03 pm
Well, I got my still built. I took a 15-gal keg, put a teapot (instead of the stainless bowl) atop the keg. Out of the teapot spout is a 4'4" lyne arm, inclined at 35deg, that gradually reduces from 1.25" to 3/8" at top. Then 3/8" copper tubing runs 3' down and 7' is submerged in icewater inside a 5-gal bucket.
There's no scrubbers inside the arm, but I figured a long arm would have a fair amt. reflux anyway (especially because, as it narrows, the surface area to volume ratio is large). I can always cut down the arm length if I'm getting too much reflux.
I decided to run through 5 gal water, to clean it and as a trial run. Here's my results:
- Was able to max out my electric heat without producing vapor at the end. Water came out at about 110deg F (estimation).
- As it was a quick test, just snugged everything up, not soldered. Used teflon tape on the exterior to fix the subsequent leaks.
- Water didn't come out drop by drop; rather, it came out 1/2 teaspoon full at a time. I'm guessing the last cooling coil was flat as opposed to slanting downward.
- Surface tension resulted in the water traveling back along the tubing, rather than just dropping into the collection vessel. I'm guessing a 45 degree bend fitting would solve that.
Questuions:
1. If cooling capacity is sufficient for water, it'll necessarially be sufficient for ethanol, right?
2. As the teflon tape is airtight, is it acceptable for use with a potable liquid?
3. Step two is to run some cheap alcohol through as a further test. The cheapest I could find was mouthwash ($1.25 for 1L; 22% ABV). The adulterants are: Eucalyptol (boiling point 176C), Menthol (212 C), Methyl Salicylate (222C), Thymol (232C). Since all these are much higher than ethanol (78C) or water (100C), removing the adulterants shouldn't be too hard, right? Do I still need to toss out foreshots or did the mouthwash manufacturer already do that?
Thanks for your help.
There's no scrubbers inside the arm, but I figured a long arm would have a fair amt. reflux anyway (especially because, as it narrows, the surface area to volume ratio is large). I can always cut down the arm length if I'm getting too much reflux.
I decided to run through 5 gal water, to clean it and as a trial run. Here's my results:
- Was able to max out my electric heat without producing vapor at the end. Water came out at about 110deg F (estimation).
- As it was a quick test, just snugged everything up, not soldered. Used teflon tape on the exterior to fix the subsequent leaks.
- Water didn't come out drop by drop; rather, it came out 1/2 teaspoon full at a time. I'm guessing the last cooling coil was flat as opposed to slanting downward.
- Surface tension resulted in the water traveling back along the tubing, rather than just dropping into the collection vessel. I'm guessing a 45 degree bend fitting would solve that.
Questuions:
1. If cooling capacity is sufficient for water, it'll necessarially be sufficient for ethanol, right?
2. As the teflon tape is airtight, is it acceptable for use with a potable liquid?
3. Step two is to run some cheap alcohol through as a further test. The cheapest I could find was mouthwash ($1.25 for 1L; 22% ABV). The adulterants are: Eucalyptol (boiling point 176C), Menthol (212 C), Methyl Salicylate (222C), Thymol (232C). Since all these are much higher than ethanol (78C) or water (100C), removing the adulterants shouldn't be too hard, right? Do I still need to toss out foreshots or did the mouthwash manufacturer already do that?
Thanks for your help.