Home Distiller

Sooo Ive decided to go for it and ordered all the copper ill need. got enough that when Im done with building the pot still i have planed i can move on and make a reflux. not picked up the keg yet but i have one in the wings that ill collect after the copper has arrived. haven't quite got my head around the electrics yet but i figger that's a challenge for when it comes, a nice long conversation in the hardware store will put me in the right direction. or ill just go propane for now.

is a flange and tri-clamp the only way to go or is there any other option? (i know ill get grilled for this)

looking forward to getting some photos of my work up as it comes together

eck

i have been looking at this controller i would appreciate it if some one can advise me on it. would it work in the uk i believe that we use 220/240v. if its good ill put the order in today

http://www.eachbuyer.com/4000w-high-pow ... m_content=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow[Consumer+Electronics]&utm_campaign=[PLA]England%28EN%29&gclid=CjkKEQjwy9GbBRC5uNDVx7q0nv4BEiQAFOb6eDANs7ow4-KSZQlW3UGkoPDccUUm8rGdbtFBpZ1XJ9rw_wcB

eck

Hello WooTeck. This is the controller I built the link has every thing you need. I went with a bigger box that way I had more room for the electronics and less cramming the wires. http://www.brewhausforum.com/showthread ... ed-control" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Also the electricbrewery.com has good info.
If using a pot lid you could buy a copper flange to fit your copper pipe then bolt the flange to the lid w/ teflon /cork/food grade silicon gasket in between.

For the Keg connection look up easy flange in the HD Google search. The 4 gauge copper wire flange is super easy!

Looking forward to seeing your build mate, flange and tri clamp is the prefered way, its just so easy to stick the gasket on, stick the column on, and clamp it up!. If there was a easier way, everyone would be doing it. Only other way I know thats sort of easy is if your keg has a thread, or get one welded in, in to put a nipple on the base of the column to screw it into the keg, but much more expense that way. There's probably other ways to, just have a look around at fittings and get the grey matter working, you might discover something new. Good luck.

+1 on what has been said, I like the idea of a larger controller box as my wires and electronics are pretty crammed and when I went to replace the ammeter it was a PITA.

WooTeck, that controller would work if you limit the size of the element in the boiler... it's only 4,000 watts. Most folk are running 4500 to 5500 watts, or even more. The controller would run VERY hot, and my guess, it'd fail sooner rather than later.

Google search 10,000 watt SCR controller and you'll find others better suited. Generally, - you get what you pay for.

I'm a huge fan of the potentiometer-controlled solid state relays. There are a dozen builds here that show how it's done. Scary easy to do, two parts, the relay and the potentiometer, wires and plugs as needed.

Good luck!

thanks for the responses guys. really psyched to get this on the go. thinking I might even start up my sacrificial wash and my fist run

MoonWhisky wrote: For the Keg connection look up easy flange in the HD Google search. The 4 gauge copper wire flange is super easy!

I know there's hunneds of flange tutorials on here so I don't feel ill be having any problems in that area.
ill be checking out your links and extracting as much know how as I can.

googe wrote:Looking forward to seeing your build mate.

me to... me to.


eck

BigSwede wrote:WooTeck, that controller would work if you limit the size of the element in the boiler... it's only 4,000 watts. Most folk are running 4500 to 5500 watts, or even more. The controller would run VERY hot, and my guess, it'd fail sooner rather than later.

Google search 10,000 watt SCR controller and you'll find others better suited. Generally, - you get what you pay for.
!

im fairly sure the majority of immersion heaters ive been looking at here in the uk are around 3000w so I was thinking id double up. I get that if you want quality you have to pay for it. I am a little short at the moment so cheap will do for a controller in the short term.

eck

WooTeck wrote:
im fairly sure the majority of immersion heaters ive been looking at here in the uk are around 3000w so I was thinking id double up. I get that if you want quality you have to pay for it. I am a little short at the moment so cheap will do for a controller in the short term.

eck

Keep in mind, it's nice to have a little "overhead" in your controller, like a 8,000 watt job powering a 4,000 watt heater.

Here's a 9,500 watt job (looks protected with a fuse) for $31 U.S. so about 20 GBP. I'm sure eBay.uk has similar. However you proceed, good luck!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/151296988320" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

WooTeck wrote:thanks for the responses guys. really psyched to get this on the go. thinking I might even start up my sacrificial wash and my fist run

MoonWhisky wrote: For the Keg connection look up easy flange in the HD Google search. The 4 gauge copper wire flange is super easy!

If your using 2" riser, DON'T DO IT!

Sorry Moon whiskey, but I did both. Definitely go with a SS Ferrell. I so wanted my easy flange to work, I really did. Spent a week or 2 on it. Finally bought a Ferrell, and was done in 5 minutes.

BigSwede wrote: Here's a 9,500 watt job (looks protected with a fuse) for $31 U.S. so about 20 GBP. I'm sure eBay.uk has similar. However you proceed, good luck!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/151296988320" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

that's awesome thanks for the link ill get that ordered in the morning or one very similar to it. yeah i suppose having a bit of leeway is always good

ShineonCrazyDiamond wrote: If your using 2" riser, DON'T DO IT!

Sorry Moon whiskey, but I did both. Definitely go with a SS Ferrell. I so wanted my easy flange to work, I really did. Spent a week or 2 on it. Finally bought a Ferrell, and was done in 5 minutes.

i am using 54mm so 2.12" just to be a dick. allot of people have had good results with a flange and clamp. cant find anything on Google for SS Ferrell. wondering how hard or if it would be possible to join with a coupler.
http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/compressio ... g-9635.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
something like that. may bring up new problems but i am looking for it to be removable so i only have to source one keg for now.

thanks for the messages this site is a very valuable tool and the people so helpfull

eck

Auto correct...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835 ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

It was under 10 when I ordered it...

This method is super easy! And cost $1.69 (4 gauge copper grounding wire per foot)
Takes about 20-30 minutes

EBAY always has some listed and they are in expensive.http://www.ebay.com/itm/SANITARY-2-304- ... 1002912080" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

ShineonCrazyDiamond wrote:Auto correct...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835 ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

It was under 10 when I ordered it...

so your saying this what i should be looking for?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/51MM-2-OD-San ... 4897.l5659" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
thanks corene1 for pointing me in the right direction.


MoonWhisky i think ill go your way because that looks like when it completed there's a hella sense of achievement. But also buy from the link posted just to have a back up.

eck

Plus 1 moonwhiskey, so easy to do, and cheap!. It is satisfying woo tech, even if things go wrong, there's heaps of help.here, and even more satisfying when you nail it . Look, I.made this with my bare hands .

i hear you googe. i cant imagine things going to off coarse. because if i do as every one says read, read, read. i will all ready know where and what caused others problems. ive also got 1.5m of 2" copper pipe coming my way so there is plenty of room for error.

that's the controller and clamp ordered. may not arrive until mid June

eck

I will be the first to admit that there is something about doing it yourself, and we all have to wear a badge of honor we earn. Mine was the"easy flange". I also was determined to do it, and it was the hardest part of my my build. Tried 2 different flanged, one was cut too short, the other I couldn't flatten enough to get my gasket to fit with the tri clamp. I finally listened and ordered the ferrule.

But I'm not here to discourage, I hope it works for you!

I look forward to seeing your progression through your build. Keep us up to date!

My friend I am going to attempt to do it myself but if I fail I have a ferrule on it's way just incase.


Try, try, try again. Then give up and go with the easy option.

WooTeck wrote:My friend I am going to attempt to do it myself but if I fail I have a ferrule on it's way just incase.


Try, try, try again. Then give up and go with the easy option.

Awesome. That just means you deserve to win. Keep going. Good luck! And remember, it's worth it!

Ok today is now the best day ever. I'm currently at a beer festival. There's a place out back that distills gin. After long talks and questions I've been lucky enough to acquire a empty 200l ethanol barrel (I'll post pictures latter). Needs a bit of checking out but they may have more that they are willing to sell. I was lucky as the owner traded mine for a cigarette.

Keep smoking kids

Eck

My whole column is made with 4 gauge copper wire ez flange fittings
The tip here is to wrap the wire around the pipe, mark the wire where the wire meets up. Use a hacksaw and cut on the mark. You now should have about a 1mm gap between the wire when it's on the pipe. This is OKAY! Use a "c" clamp to close the wire gap and solder the 4 gauge copper wire together. Now it won't fit on the pipe but that okay! Now file the inside of the wire with round file until it fits on the pipe (doing this also provides a better soldering joint) it shouldn't take much. Now that it fits file or grind the angle 20 degree angle on the wire before soldering on the pipe then solder it on the pipe. Lastly file or sand the bottom flat for a better seal.

200l boiler. God only knows if it's plastic lined or not. Ether way it's making for a great boiler or at least fermentation device.

Eck

Good find on the 200l barrel, keep trying the easy flange, I can bang one out in 5 minutes no sweat, I made all my t's and reducers it's not hard just a little time consuming and that badge of honor and confidence will have you building all kinds of stuff my current project is a reflux tower for neutrals. That build bug spreads a virus you can't escape. Keep up the good work and good luck. Check googes links he's quite the builder.

Im not worried about the flange. Just need to work out what the barrel is coated in. The cap was not a metal colour (i feel like an idiot saying that)... It was some bage colour coating. May need to cut a whole and scrub the whole thing clean.

What's peoples thoughts. It was originally used to contain 96% ethanol. should i be worried? Anybody have any experience with these cans. Looking to the semi pro/pro members or any one that can help.

eck

Just thought I'd throw my 2 cents in on the easy flange topic... Unfortunately there seems to be a real lack of availabity of 4gua copper wire here in canada... So that option was out. I've since done 2 different methods. Both are easy and work very well. This is both on a 2" type L. Cut a 2" hole in a 2x4, put the pipe 1/4" protrusion from the wood... Hammer flat (after annealing). This works fantastically, although you will need to have some pretty thick gaskets to make it vapour tight. The other method I used was to solder a 1/4" copper refrigerant pipe around the 2". Works like a charm. Easy peasy and cheap.

Thanks for your input tap. but can I stress that I'm not worried about flanges. If I fail at doing it myself then I have two furrules coming in the mail with my clamp and gasket.. that I ordered.

What I'm most interested in/ worried about is the coating that may be in barrel that I have gots my self.

God I hope that someone has some know how.

Suppose it would do as an impressive fermentation device but I would really like to be able to quadruple my capacity of boiler without having to do lots of extra work... With out having to scrape it out that is. It's got a beautiful threaded top connection. Easy as, to just screw a column to with a new few parts that Id be able to buy.

With no one able to inspect the barrel, you're a bit on your own there, I'm afraid.

You should be able to detect any sort of lining. If the barrel is a proper stainless steel, a magnet won't stick, or it'll be very, very weak compared to regular steel. I can see in my mind how companies might ship industrial ethanol, and it might be regular carbon steel lined with some polymer, because it's so much cheaper than stainless. I hope that's not what you have!

If that's the case, it'd probably work great as a fermentation vessel, so it's not all bad. If it's stainless, there'd normally be no reason to add a coating inside.

BigSwede wrote:With no one able to inspect the barrel, you're a bit on your own there, I'm afraid.

You should be able to detect any sort of lining.

yeh there defiantly is a lining of some kind
haven't been home since the beer festival and this is my first opportunity to post any images... this is the barrel. when I get home tonight ill test with a magnet, post a photo of the lining and test the lining against fire/heat

Eck

Thought you were talking a wood barrel lol. We call them drums here. If say its a metal drum like Swede said, most liners are a epoxy for chemicals ect, so they don't damage the metal. Would make a ok coolent tank with the liner in it.