Shotgun Design

Anything cooling/condenser related.

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Getsmokin
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Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

Can a shotgun style condenser have to many tubes?
bellybuster
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by bellybuster »

if it interrupts the water flow or has too thin of water flow around the tubes, yes
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

bellybuster wrote:if it interrupts the water flow or has too thin of water flow around the tubes, yes
Couldn't one adjust the the inlet flow/pressure to accommodate less dead space? I was looking to build one with 11 3/8s tubes in 2 inch pipe.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Bushman »

I drew it out on my cad and it will work however the more pipes the more solder the more work, why not go with 1/2" and use fewer pipes?
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by pfshine »

I made mine with nine 3/8" tubes in it. Let me tell you it can take damn near anything you can throw at it.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by DAD300 »

It can have too many tubes.

If they are too small they will clog and spit.

If they are too close there will not be enough water flow/mass around them.

And, the ability to put them inside the shell will be limited by your welding/soldering ability or equipment.

Most commercial 2" shotguns have 7- 3/8" tubes and 12" -20" in length.

If your worried about power handling, just add to the length.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by shadylane »

Four was too many 3 was just right. 1/2" tubes inside a 29 inch long, 1-1/2" jacket.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

I have no real reason to use 11 3/8s other than I have them and the fit pretty nice in 2". There should be an 1/8" min around every tube by my measurements. Tiging an extra 3 or 4 tubes at this point is really no extra time.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

Does anyone have some real life specs on what a 2" pc with 7 3/8s tubes will knock down?
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by pfshine »

That depends on how long it is. If it were 1'-6" then you would have 148.44 square inches of cooling. That would knock down 5000 watts easy.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

Here is what i ended up building a 24" x 2" with 7 3/8s tubes. Is there anything else i should add before sticking her together?
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by aquavita »

Is that stainless?? DIY - Wow - nice! :clap:

I'd add a strike-mark like you would find for timing an engine - on the edge of both tube plates on the same tube.

That'll help you keep the tubes straight.

If the tubes are twisted, it might restrict the cooling waters.

I am now running a stainless shotgun - I will say that it seems to drive a bit different from my copper liebig - not bad, just different.

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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

aquavita wrote:Is that stainless?? DIY - Wow - nice! :clap:

I'd add a strike-mark like you would find for timing an engine - on the edge of both tube plates on the same tube.

That'll help you keep the tubes straight.

If the tubes are twisted, it might restrict the cooling waters.

I am now running a stainless shotgun - I will say that it seems to drive a bit different from my copper liebig - not bad, just different.

Aqua.
Yep, all stainless. i have thought about twisting the ends to make some turbulence to improve cooling. Was just a thought tho.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by The KYChemist »

I'm sure it will become clear, as you post more pics, but what are your plans for the takeoff? From where I sit, it looks like you used two tri-clamp end caps for end plates. With a shoulder machined on the outside, in order to fit into the main body of the shot-gun. What are you going to connect to the output side, for the take-off? Two ferrules welded up, spool style, with another end cap with a hole drilled in it? I'm curious to see. Good idea on the end caps. Probablly saves a bunch of weight. As my shot-gun sits, its a little weighty at about 6.5-7 lbs. We have two 1/4" machined rounds for our end plates, my partner and I.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

The KYChemist wrote:I'm sure it will become clear, as you post more pics, but what are your plans for the takeoff? From where I sit, it looks like you used two tri-clamp end caps for end plates. With a shoulder machined on the outside, in order to fit into the main body of the shot-gun. What are you going to connect to the output side, for the take-off? Two ferrules welded up, spool style, with another end cap with a hole drilled in it? I'm curious to see. Good idea on the end caps. Probablly saves a bunch of weight. As my shot-gun sits, its a little weighty at about 6.5-7 lbs. We have two 1/4" machined rounds for our end plates, my partner and I.
I haven't got the parts for the takeoff yet but was planing on a vented 2" x 3/4 reducer to a parrot maybe. I haven't weighed mine yet but i would be surprised if it was more than 3 lbs.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by still_stirrin »

How about baffles in your water jacket?
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

still_stirrin wrote:How about baffles in your water jacket?
ss
I did think of baffles, but decided that with the small diameter outer tube that it may not be necessary. thanks for the input tho
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

Here is the assembled unit. (still could use some polishing)
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by firewater69 »

Very nice work!!!
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

firewater69 wrote:Very nice work!!!
Thanks. Deflag is up next.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by W Pappy »

OK OK OK yours is bigger shady. :oops: hahahaha
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1428421549049.jpg[/attachment] Somemore condenser pics. Would a baffle inside this deflag be necessary?
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1428422062119.jpg[/attachment] here's another
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by carbohydratesn »

I don't think it could be considered necessary at all, but it would definitely improve performance. It's up to you whether or not that's important. That looks like a giant shotgun, baffles would 'stretch' - lengthen and narrow - the water's path considerably.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

It has dual inlets and outlets as well, but I may look around for some scrap for baffling.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by googe »

Nice work.mate, very neat!. What's the dephleg for?, looks big!. I've found baffles and all that stuff unnecessary , my best dephlag is fewer larger inner tubes.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

googe wrote:Nice work.mate, very neat!. What's the dephleg for?, looks big!. I've found baffles and all that stuff unnecessary , my best dephlag is fewer larger inner tubes.
thanks. Its for a 4" bubble column i'm building. hopefully 3x3/4 inner tubes and 6x1/2 outer tubes are not to much at 11" long. You make some pretty neat pieces yourself.
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by Getsmokin »

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1428540349404.jpg[/attachment] assembled pic
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by googe »

nice work!. That's really big though!, usually for 4" there around 5" long with 5or so 3/4" inners. Mine is 4" long with 4 x 1" inner tubes and I can.achieve full reflux with bigger all water flow. When there bigger it makes reaction times when adjusting the rc valve slow. And having different sized inner tubes might cause the vapor to choose the path with less resistance (bigger inner tube), I don't know if you've used a dephlagmator before?, but you'll be very very surprised how.little water flow you need, when im taking product my rc valve is barely turned on, just a slow trickle. Good luck with the build, looking forward to seeing the rest, should be shinny :thumbup:
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Re: Shotgun Design

Post by coastershiner »

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