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mainly from this site/forum.

i read about inline,off head and vm(lately).
i recently was aiming for a inline then recently saw a a very elegant VM column.
Bokakob design are cost effective and proven true.
VM i dind't saw much about it "yet" except that just looking at one logic tell me they are very good, mostly cause of there simplicity.(down side is the gate valve that should be stainless steel not cost effective)

lucky me a had some lab glass doing nothing mixed with a cheap ss pot a hotplate and some imagination i get 92% at 250ml/h
that keeps me happy will i design/build a real column.

anyway all that to ask if that a VW column worth it over a simple bokakob.

and in the long run ill probably end up making a potstill and using the column only to recycle the tails and stuff.

some would say think about what you like then aim for that.
i like a lots of stuff gin,rum,scotch,vodka,some liqueur .... etc

so i probably need both a column and a potstill.

gonna aim for column first, not too good with fermentation yet, used to make kit wine that a monkey could do.and BW that also can be done by a monkey.(thank you birdwatcher that recipe is so easy)

if i do go for the Bokakob design the one with plates soldered in the column since i have no idea where to get a plate of copper, think i can use a piece of the 2" pipe cuted length wise and hammered down to a plate?

sorry if this post is a bit confusing been sampling the stuff...

thank you
pikluk

Pikluk wrote:think i can use a piece of the 2" pipe cuted length wise and hammered down to a plate?

thank you
pikluk

That's what I did. Copper is pretty soft so it's not as hard working it as I thought it would be.

if i go for the inline.
i saw that you can remove most of the lead from it with a treatment,(surface)
but what about the rubber seal i know that the distillate shouldn't really go that far.
but any idea of what can be used to replace it?
ptfe sound good but a source would be nice.

thanks chev i knew copper was really tender just never worked with.
i did work a lot with brass(that is a lot more brittle)while i was a locksmith,
but never worked with copper.

Pikluk wrote:mainly from this site/forum.

gonna aim for column first, not too good with fermentation yet, pikluk

i have a simple reflex i've used for 7 years. use a simple wash. 5 gals of water, 15 lbs of suger, one pack of Superyeast Express. it has all the food the yeast needs in the pack. works in 7-9 days and makes 20 percent. and my reflex takes in to 93-95 percent. cut and flavor to what i feel like making

Hey Homer... a good rule of thumb is one percent abv per lb sugar in a 5 gallon wash.

So 15 lbs of sugar made up to 5 gallons would yeild a wash of aprox 15% abv. (Not 20%) If the 15 lbs of sugar was added to 5 gallons of water the total volume would be more than 5 gallons and would that way yeild less than 15% abv when fermented.

If yer just fermentin' sugar to make moonshine I suggest ya save ALOT of cash and go with cheap bakers yeast and some tomato paste for nutrients. The turbo yeast is expensive and ferments rough and stinky. Drop yer abv to 10% buy usin' only 10 lbs of sugar and it will ferment fast and clean and yer final product will be orders of magnitude better (and less expensive too !)

i'll give it a try holymac. have one really to run now. but will drop to 10 lbs. i did start with kitchen yeast, but it work forever it seemed. i tried turbo once and was happy w/ the speed it worked. maybe i been around it long enough to like the smell. wife says different. BUT, willing to cut back and see. (that suger/water is from the packages directions)

Homer wrote: (that suger/water is from the packages directions.

I hear ya Homer.

Turbos are fun at first 'cause they truly do ferment fast and violent, but after awhile you'll want to make the finest booze ya can. At that point turbos will be out.

i tried to make search in the forum about this,
read a lot of stuff learned a few thing but still dont know if a VM colum worth buying a expensive ss gate valve.
but in a other hand bokabob use a brass neddle valve from wich you should replace the rubber seal(i know i read somthing about someone replacing it with something but cant fint the treat again).