My Bits

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:21 am

Just thought I would share some pictures of a few bits I have collected that will be used on my new still.

The boiler:

Some fittings:

I'm still yet to get my copper bits. The only reason I haven't got them yet is I'm still not sure what kind of still I want to build to suit my requirements.

BW Redneck · Post by **BW Redneck** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:52 am

Froggy wrote:I'm still yet to get my copper bits. The only reason I haven't got them yet is I'm still not sure what kind of still I want to build to suit my requirements.

Well... what do ya plan on doin'? We can help ya in that department.

Many have noticed that they start using their pot head more than their reflux after the novelty wears off. Most only keep them around for fixing mistakes.

If you are just using the reflux to clean up mistakes, then build a bok inline or some other LM design.
However, if you're giving vodka out to people as gifts, making cordials for parties, or if flavored spirit ingredients are rare in your area (some can't get basic feedmill items), then a Vapor management design is going to be the most reliable, easiest to use, and most durable head you'll ever build.

It's like deciding on an AL or SS boiler, are you only going to use this thing once a month and use it gently, or are you going to use it daily and beat the sh*t out of it?
(Don't want to restart that debate again)

punkin · Post by **punkin** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 10:26 am

You're doing the right thing. Hold your bits in the shed, keep an eye out for more bits, and keep reading the forums here.
Go back through all the old posts, pages and pages of em. Read the lot.

The differences will come clear to you, and you will have no trouble deciding not only what you want, but excactly how you want it.

Get the design completely clear in your head, then draw it (good idea to post it up here) using all your joining components right down to your output height ect.

ThenGetTheGrinderOutPunkin

Safegyde · Post by **Safegyde** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 10:29 am

Froggy, In the pic with your fittings, what is that piece on the far left? Is that a built in filter?

Where did you come across those fittings?

punkin · Post by **punkin** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 10:31 am

Looks like a reducer to me.

Safegyde · Post by **Safegyde** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 10:34 am

Punkin, on the far LEFT? Not stage left, picture left. lol

Or is that what you meant?

punkin · Post by **punkin** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 10:54 am

Aaahh fancy looking joiner, either a socket with a number three screwed into it or another bit to do the same thing.
Solder to screw connection

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 4:55 pm

BW Redneck wrote:
Froggy wrote:I'm still yet to get my copper bits. The only reason I haven't got them yet is I'm still not sure what kind of still I want to build to suit my requirements.
Well... what do ya plan on doin'? We can help ya in that department.

Many have noticed that they start using their pot head more than their reflux after the novelty wears off. Most only keep them around for fixing mistakes.

If you are just using the reflux to clean up mistakes, then build a bok inline or some other LM design.
However, if you're giving vodka out to people as gifts, making cordials for parties, or if flavored spirit ingredients are rare in your area (some can't get basic feedmill items), then a Vapor management design is going to be the most reliable, easiest to use, and most durable head you'll ever build.

It's like deciding on an AL or SS boiler, are you only going to use this thing once a month and use it gently, or are you going to use it daily and beat the sh*t out of it?
(Don't want to restart that debate again)

Hi mate,

I want to build some kind of reflux still for producing straight vodka as this is all we pretty well use. I currently have a Still Spirits still which I have been learning with and we use most of our collections for soaking fruits. Of course some of it we do drink.
I have been reading a lot about the offset head valved reflux stills but so far I am put of by the collection rate. Unfortunately I don't get a lot of spare time these days for my hobbies so being able to only collect 200-250mLs an hour wouldn't allow me to run the still very often at all

To run a 20L wash though the Still Spirits still takes me roughly 4 hours once up to temp, but this 4 hours seems a lifetime as I have to keep adjusting the cooling flow every 5 minutes. I would like to build a new still so that I don't have to keep making such adjustments.

Later on in the future when I have more spare time I would like to build a pot still to try my hands at some rum. One day

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:00 pm

punkin wrote:You're doing the right thing. Hold your bits in the shed, keep an eye out for more bits, and keep reading the forums here.
Go back through all the old posts, pages and pages of em. Read the lot.

The differences will come clear to you, and you will have no trouble deciding not only what you want, but excactly how you want it.

Get the design completely clear in your head, then draw it (good idea to post it up here) using all your joining components right down to your output height ect.

ThenGetTheGrinderOutPunkin

Thanks mate,

I currently have about 30 different posts open in Firefox at the moment that I'm reading.

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:10 pm

Safegyde wrote:Froggy, In the pic with your fittings, what is that piece on the far left? Is that a built in filter?

Where did you come across those fittings?

Sorry mate, It was a bit of a poor photo. They are just 2 inch threaded fittings screwed together. Here is another photo of them apart:

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:13 pm

Where do you Aussie guys get your heating elements from? I'd like to figure out what kind of elements I'm going to use so I can get the fittings welded onto the boiler.

Thanks

Post by **HookLine** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:39 pm

Most big electrical trade suppliers will stock them. 'Stokes' is the main manufacturer/importer of water heating elements in Australia I think. Their catalogue is online.

Also check out these guys.

Get a low density, Incoloy 825 coated element, they last forever and are the same price as tin coated. If they don't have 825 then get the 800 coated. Incoloy is a type of stainless with very high corrosion resistance.

My elements has a 1" BSP thread mount on it, which means it can be mounted externally, so you don't need access to the inside of the boiler.

Also, I don't know exactly what your plans are for mounting the column to the boiler, but you might want to consider using a 50-40 BSP reducer, instead of the straight 50-50 BSP coupling you go in the photo. The 40 mm end sits straight on top of the keg opening, and the reducer section also holds a mesh retainer. Something like this:

Post by **HookLine** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:47 pm

One more suggestion: Depending on your set up, consider using a female fitting on the end of your column. It does mean an extra male-male fitting between the female on the column and the female on the boiler, but it also means you don't have an exposed thread on the end of your column.

That is one thing I would change if I did mine again.

wineo · Post by **wineo** » Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:54 pm

I had a offset head reflux that I built when I first started,but built a potstill column and ended up using it all the time.I desided to use the copper from my offset head column to build a new column that will run faster,but still get 80-90%.Well,its almost together and I made a 36 inch tall,2 inch column that I will pack with SS scrubbers except for the last 6 inches at the top.Im using a 2 inch cap with a 1/2 fitting coming out the top to connect to my condencer.It has a piece of 1/2 inch extending down into the column 4 inches.I have a dial thermometer mounted at 5 inches down so its at the vapor takeoff point.Im running a 4 ft leibeg condencer at a 45% angle downward.The leibeg is made with 1/2 inch copper with a 3/4 inch jacket.
I made this to run sugar washes and vodka.I dont know what kind of % it will run yet,but should run as fast as my potstill with a higher proof.
The old one worked fine,and would easily run 95%,but I didnt like the long run times,and dont want to strip all the flavors out so we will see.
Im waiting on another triclamp fitting for the column so I can test it out.
I have 22 gallons of sugar wash waiting.

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 1:13 am

HookLine wrote:Most big electrical trade suppliers will stock them. 'Stokes' is the main manufacturer/importer of water heating elements in Australia I think. Their catalogue is online.

Also check out these guys.

Get a low density, Incoloy 825 coated element, they last forever and are the same price as tin coated. If they don't have 825 then get the 800 coated. Incoloy is a type of stainless with very high corrosion resistance.

My elements has a 1" BSP thread mount on it, which means it can be mounted externally, so you don't need access to the inside of the boiler.

Also, I don't know exactly what your plans are for mounting the column to the boiler, but you might want to consider using a 50-40 BSP reducer, instead of the straight 50-50 BSP coupling you go in the photo. The 40 mm end sits straight on top of the keg opening, and the reducer section also holds a mesh retainer. Something like this:

Hi mate,

Thanks for the info on the elements, I'll check out those links you posted and I'll see what I can come up with.

I'm going to cut the standard fitting out of the keg and I'm going to weld in the 4 inch tri-clover ferrule you see in the picture above. This will allow me to get in and clean the keg a little easier if needed. Thanks for the tip though.

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 1:22 am

HookLine wrote:One more suggestion: Depending on your set up, consider using a female fitting on the end of your column. It does mean an extra male-male fitting between the female on the column and the female on the boiler, but it also means you don't have an exposed thread on the end of your column.

That is one thing I would change if I did mine again.

This was going to be a question I was going to ask later on when I'm about to build the column. But since we're on the subject I might as well clear it up now.
What's the idea of having the female fitting on the end of the column? I was thinking that having a male fitting on the end of the column would be better so that any liquid returning to the boiler wouldn't foul on the join.

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 1:26 am

wineo wrote:I had a offset head reflux that I built when I first started,but built a potstill column and ended up using it all the time.I desided to use the copper from my offset head column to build a new column that will run faster,but still get 80-90%.Well,its almost together and I made a 36 inch tall,2 inch column that I will pack with SS scrubbers except for the last 6 inches at the top.Im using a 2 inch cap with a 1/2 fitting coming out the top to connect to my condencer.It has a piece of 1/2 inch extending down into the column 4 inches.I have a dial thermometer mounted at 5 inches down so its at the vapor takeoff point.Im running a 4 ft leibeg condencer at a 45% angle downward.The leibeg is made with 1/2 inch copper with a 3/4 inch jacket.
I made this to run sugar washes and vodka.I dont know what kind of % it will run yet,but should run as fast as my potstill with a higher proof.
The old one worked fine,and would easily run 95%,but I didnt like the long run times,and dont want to strip all the flavors out so we will see.
Im waiting on another triclamp fitting for the column so I can test it out.
I have 22 gallons of sugar wash waiting.

Do you have any pictures of your new still?

Post by **HookLine** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 3:00 am

Froggy wrote:
HookLine wrote:One more suggestion: Depending on your set up, consider using a female fitting on the end of your column. It does mean an extra male-male fitting between the female on the column and the female on the boiler, but it also means you don't have an exposed thread on the end of your column.

That is one thing I would change if I did mine again.
This was going to be a question I was going to ask later on when I'm about to build the column. But since we're on the subject I might as well clear it up now.
What's the idea of having the female fitting on the end of the column? I was thinking that having a male fitting on the end of the column would be better so that any liquid returning to the boiler wouldn't foul on the join.

If you have a male fitting on the bottom of the column it has an exposed thread, and so can be damaged fairly easily during handling or storage of the long and unwieldy column. I have an end cap that screws over the male thread when storing the column, but it is only a partial solution.

A female fitting has an internal thread which is much harder to damage. It is difficult and costly to replace the welded fitting on the bottom of the column, while replacing the male-male coupling between them is a piece of cake.

If you seal the threads properly with PTFE thread tape then you shouldn't have a problem with much liquid fouling on the join, only a teaspoon or two at most. The join is also at the bottom of the column so even if a significant amount of liquid did catch there it wouldn't make any difference to the quality of the output at the top of the column.

Another advantage of having a removable male-male fitting is that you can get a mesh retainer welded inside it. This makes sure the packing mesh stays inside the column and doesn't fall into the boiler, but also allows you access to the mesh easily (by removing the male-male fitting).

I cannot see any real problem with doing it this way, and at least two big advantages. The only downside that I can see is that you have one more fitting to deal with.

It isn't a real big deal, my still works fine as is, but I think a male fitting on the bottom of the column is a unnecessary vulnerability.

arkansas · Post by **arkansas** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 3:02 am

Froggy wrote:
HookLine wrote:One more suggestion: Depending on your set up, consider using a female fitting on the end of your column. It does mean an extra male-male fitting between the female on the column and the female on the boiler, but it also means you don't have an exposed thread on the end of your column.

That is one thing I would change if I did mine again.
This was going to be a question I was going to ask later on when I'm about to build the column. But since we're on the subject I might as well clear it up now.
What's the idea of having the female fitting on the end of the column? I was thinking that having a male fitting on the end of the column would be better so that any liquid returning to the boiler wouldn't foul on the join.

Froggy, the reason behind the female on the end of the column is when you break it down for cleaning, there is alot less chance of bunging up the threads on the female fitting than there is on a male fitting, like hitting the side of the sink or so on.

edit: looks like hook was on this before me.

wineo · Post by **wineo** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:18 am

Heres some pics.
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... 280019.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... 280027.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... 280026.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg25 ... 0023-1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Ricky · Post by **Ricky** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 1:29 pm

wineo how you keep up with all that stuff?

wineo · Post by **wineo** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 1:53 pm

What stuff???

Ricky · Post by **Ricky** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 1:59 pm

thats what i thought.

wineo · Post by **wineo** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 2:55 pm

Alot of it is wines.Theres quite a bit of liquer there too!

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 6:11 pm

HookLine, How have you terminated your elements without having the terminals exposed?

Post by **HookLine** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 6:31 pm

The electrical junction box is held on with standard roof and gutter silicone.

http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s197/Sinker_2007/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 7:21 pm

That looks like a good idea. Is that another fitting on the opposite side of the keg? Used for a drain?

Post by **HookLine** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 7:35 pm

Froggy wrote:That looks like a good idea. Is that another fitting on the opposite side of the keg? Used for a drain?

Correct, it now has a (locking) ball valve permanently screwed into it. Get the locking kind, then there is no danger of you accidentally bumping it and opening the valve during a run.

Froggy · Post by **Froggy** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:02 pm

Thanks mate. I'll ring up in the new year and see if I can order an element.

wineo · Post by **wineo** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 4:51 pm

I got the rest of my parts today,so I will be doing a cleanout run,then I will run 12 gallons of 10% sugar wash and see what she does.Im doing the cleanout tonight,and will set it up,ready to run.Probably wont do the run till tomorow.I will post the results{%} when im done.

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