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I am making a Tumbler out of an old treadmill
I have noticed some very good electrical talent on here, I am wondering if I can get some help on how to use the existing electronics .

here is the board and the components I think I need
how do I separate the crap I don't neeed and keep the stuff I do

The big black "thing" is a capacitor-
I do not understand your question, the pcb seems to be some kind of volltage regulator.
You probably need the whole circuit board....

ok..fair enough, I need the whole thing.

then what I want to do is isolate the power to the motor

and the speed control of the motor.

the incline, I do not need, the mp-3 player I do not need,
the pre programed work outs I do not need
the led screen, I do not need

pdf of the board

Frodo, the board and all the features are integrated. Just strip off the hardware you dont need, like incline, and terminate the wires with wire nuts. Id keep everything else and stuff it in a box. Could be without a display board the micro throws an error, or shit like that, for example.

I'm not an expert on motor control, but I know electronics. Like jimbo says the board is integrated and you can't do much about it.

The control console is what you want to be looking at. It appears from the diagram you posted that the speed control is looking for a digital Pulse Width Modulated signal to operate. It may also need the speed sensors in order for it to function.

Kegg_jam wrote:I'm not an expert on motor control, but I know electronics. Like jimbo says the board is integrated and you can't do much about it.

The control console is what you want to be looking at. It appears from the diagram you posted that the speed control is looking for a digital Pulse Width Modulated signal to operate. It may also need the speed sensors in order for it to function.

I think that is them 2 blue wires sticking out the side of the motor.

so my best bet, is a damn dimmer switch and a full wave bridge rectifier

who needs parts ? you pay shipping and give me 10 packs of yeast

this stuff is urin PEE PEE
speakers and comfort fan MP-3 player led screen 120 v actuature..for the incline....need a full wave bridge rectifier for this and the controler

The two blue wires coming from the motor are the thermal switch to tell the controller if the motor is over heating.
The Black and red wires power the motor.

Frodo at first glance I thought "just keep the motor and fuck off all the other electronics and make a dedicated controller"...untill I realized it was a 0-95V DC motor and you had some useful info in the PDF .

Making a high power DC controller is way more than a Sunday arvo project and it would appear that the controller pcb is actually a "dumb pcb".....all the smarts are on the console , but I think we can fuck that off and just feed a raw PWM signal back to the controller via the blue harness wire ( that inter connects the console and controller PCBs , not the motor blue wire) , and it should do as its told .

A basic PWM controller can be made from a CMOS 7555 ic for around $5 ......something like This ....although you would need a 5 volt regulator IC to run it via say the 8-12 V DC (red harness wire and use the black negative harness wire .
That way the 7555 IC would get and send the required 5 volt signal to the controller PCB .( If you follow the diagram in the link , just connect the 7555 pin 7 to the blue wire and piss off the IRFZ46 FET and motor as that's for controlling a small 12 DC motor....all you are interested in is the drive signal coming out of the chip )......and please use a 5Volt regulator IC to run the PWM curcuit because if you feed 8-12 volts up the controller you will almost certainly let the smoke out .

Also make sure you use a 7555 CMOS timer as the standard 555 timer won't do a full PWM range


BUT ...Ideally you need to know what frequency the present PWM signal is to keep things happy . If you have a CRO (oscilloscope ) you can connect it to the blue wire and measure the frequency or you may be able to connect a multimeter that can measure frequency to the blue wire and do it that way ( black lead to black , red lead to blue ) however some Multimeters that measure frequency get a bit confused on a non sinusoidal wave forms like we have here and can give a false reading but if you set the speed to as close to half 50% duty when measuring it should work

So once we know the expected frequency we can tweak the RC values in the 7555 circuit to approximate .......we could just go with an arbitrary value of around 200-2000Hz as is often used bu DC motors if all else fails and see what happens

Since the tread mill is being converted into a tumbler, see if 12VDC happens to run the motor at the right speed.
The answer to the problem may be as simple as connecting a battery charger to the black and red wires.

I have the motor hooked to a ac/dc 12 volt 6 amp simple converter

it is running at a decent speed

you want to tumble slow, about 40 to 50 rpm at the tumble canister

it is running how i want, my concern, am i hurting the motor? using a low amp converter

The motor would pull almost 13 amps under a full load on 115 volts.
Your not going to hurt the motor on 12 volts and at that low of a voltage it shouldn't pull enough amps to overload the power supply.
The question is will it develop enough power to spin the tumbler?

check back in a couple hours......

If it doesnt have the torque you need to roll the full canister at 12V, run it at a higher voltage and gear it down.

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x3c380z