Home Distiller

Making a 2" LM column (bokakob) on a keg boiler. Been collecting parts and studying, and found a mentor. Learning to sweat copper as well - let us just say that I can only get better here. Anyway, this will be my ongoing "first rig" thread, and I'll add pics as I go.

So far I bought a new keg (on sale) and a lot of fittings, stainless/PFTE Parker needle valve, a bit of pipe, some lead free solder supplies and also silver brazing supplies for attaching flanges to 2" L cu pipe. Already had my home plumbing box full of tools, pipe cutter, sand cloth, flux and what-not.

Rig specs:
48" x 2" L column w/2" TC flanges both ends with cu mesh packing. Will TC clamp to keg.
2" bokakob-style LM head w/ 8" double coil using 1/4" OD cu. for coil and output that will attach to column with tri-clamp.
Keg will get 4" TC flange for cleanout and 2" TC flange for heater element (240V 5500W Camco LWD element). Heat will be controlled by SSR circuit of my own design.

Cooling plumbing will be 3/8" PEX.
I am also going to make a simple potstill head using a Leibig condenser. I will make a 2 foot Leibig using 3/4" x 1/2" pipe, and a second using 1" x 3/4" pipe.

Last week I made the reflux double coil (8" 1/4 OD), and today I made a small 1/2" over 1/4" Leibig to cool the boka output. Hope the output cooler isn't too long - it is about 20" long.
Here's the keg, reflux coil (hand wound), and product cooler:


Cheers.

Hey. Your doing almost the exact same build as I am. Only I found some 3"L, so I'm going that route. 48" of packing, all TC. I never did come up with anything for the drain besides having a 1/2" SS 90 tig welded to the bottom, 8"SS nip, 1/2"SS ball.

I'd be interested in seeing some info on your controller- THAT is what I don't have (and haven't ordered the 5500w element..)
Looks like you'll be in business in no time! Just make sure you do your cleaning (and extra cleaning) to be safe:)

I ran out of MAP gas tonight, just as I got my "harbor freight" controlled 1500w going in my super small capacity (1gallon) X 1-1/2 boka and of course, I find a small leak after soldering a stud on for a ground... Argh...

The circuit is well known one using a variable SSVR, and there are plenty of examples on-line. Forgive me if don't cover it in this thread. The main thing is to build it correctly (i.e. safe) and insure the SSR has sufficient heat sinking, and the enclosure is wired correctly and grounded. I am an experienced EE electro-whiz and know what I am doing, and the tech is covered well elsewhere, anyway.

Trying to figure out how best to connect PEX to the 1/4" OD condenser tubes. Not a lot at the big box in this regard. It only carries water so any material is cool. Guess I could use clamps but I'd like something neater.

jawjatek wrote: Trying to figure out how best to connect PEX to the 1/4" OD condenser tubes. Not a lot at the big box in this regard. It only carries water so any material is cool. Guess I could use clamps but I'd like something neater.

Went the big box route with the push to fit connectors - they work but I'm not happy with them changing the whole setup to 3/4" triclamps

It would take a few fittings but I bet there is a threaded end you could crip onto your pex, and then attach air line quick disconnects

I had some time this weekend, so I sweated 2 copper TC sani flanges on my reflux column, which is 48" of 2" L pipe. Next I will construct the boka condenser head. I found a shop to modify my keg, which will get a 4" ss TC flange in the middle for cleaning, and a 2" ss TC flange near the bottom for the heating element, TIG welded.

Also started collecting some mashing supplies, DADY, yeast nutrient, and a enzyme ez mash kit. Still need to buy some more stuff next time I go by the homebrew store. Also looking for a suitable container to use for a mash tun.

You might want to consider fill and drain ports while you're at the welder. I skipped them with mine because I was in a hurry and didn't think it would be a big deal, but now I really wish I'd had them done.

raketemensch wrote:You might want to consider fill and drain ports while you're at the welder. I skipped them with mine because I was in a hurry and didn't think it would be a big deal, but now I really wish I'd had them done.

+1

Ordered some stuff for my heat controller today and also got all the copper fittings for a pot still head I am making for stripping and rums/whiskeys etc.

My 15 gal keg will have the Camco 5500W ripple ultra-low watt density element, which should be overkill for a 2" LM reflux and plenty for the pot still. I will be using a digital controller to burst fire a Crydom D2440 (40A) SSR which will handle the full load easily on the big heatsink I am using. A digital power controller (similar to PID controller in manual mode) is way more repeatable than a phase-angle SSVR+pot, just set the duty cycle, no meter needed. In control theory parlance this is a resistive load with a large thermal mass, for which burst fire SCR control is well-suited to, and is RFI-free.

I notice there are some good threads in the electric forum for those who are not an EE like me and are wanting more info, but there isn't much there I don't already know due to being an EE for a long time. I already knew what I needed so I just ordered the parts and will build from scratch.

More pics soon...

So pretty boring thread... having a friend doing my keg at work, but, you know, they've been too busy to get to it for 2 weeks now.

I did build my boiler power controller. It is based on an Auber boiler control module running a Crydom D2440 40A SSR. The control module is manually set from 0-100% and digitally regulates power to the side receptacle in either time proportional or burst mode, which I think is better than phase control for this application, and generates no power line RFI. You just dial 0-100% on the front with a knob, and it is repeatable so settings can be recorded in the recipe. Plugs and receptacles are Leviton 6L-30 twist-lock on 3-10 SOOW cable.

I ordered my SSVR and pot from Auber as well since the Amazon route was almost a month lead time with shipping from China.
Auber had the parts to me in 3 days.
Same Leviton twist loc plugs and a plastic NEMA hinged box from Amazon.

could you detail the ssr control please? part numbers, links, maybe a quick drawing?

i have been using a resistive controlled ssr with a 500k pot and it is anything but linear and finnicky as shit. i'd love an upgrade.

How about this one?

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=559" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Temp or % power control.
ss

geez, i dunno. that seems like it would do everything for 67 bux. i was hoping to find something a lot more expensive that did half the job.

how come i've never seen that on the forum before?

thank you.

Auber has a great selection and they are located in Georgia.
Temp control is their specialty
They are very helpful on the phone.
You'll pay more for their SSVRs and pots, but their items are paired up to work with each other, unlike the crap shoot you get with Amazon.

Thanks for the post. I am just getting started in the learning process around controllers. I understand the need, but not the required components. This helped me a lot.

I'm using the Auber DSPR1, and a Crydom D2440 SSR from Mouser, instead of the homebrew SSVR circuit I was thinking of using. Auber is local to me, so no shipping charges, just sales tax. When I went over, they also had the box with heat sink so I grabbed one, saved me from having to cut and drill some DIY box I was going to use. You can download the wiring diagram from the website. Saved me a lot of time and works great, though I have not made a run yet, still working on the rest, and waiting on my fuel license.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=444

My friend did a great job TIG welding the ferrules. I may add a drain later; I have some pumps around that will handle that for now. I also wired up my 5500W stainless Camco heater element in a 2" TC adapter that will go in the lower ferrule (yes, its grounded, and will make a good enough connection to the keg thru the clamp). Now to add a 240V 30A breaker and 6L-30 receptacle to my shop panel. Then I can hook it up and test by boiling some water.

Just to confirm - is that a stainless keg? I only ask because it looks just like an aluminium one I saw last week...

Brand new Kegco stainless. I wouldn't use aluminum.

Mikey-moo wrote:Just to confirm - is that a stainless keg? I only ask because it looks just like an aluminium one I saw last week...

Don't know about you, but I have never seen a stainless ferrel welded to an Ali keg look that pretty.

jawjatek wrote:Brand new Kegco stainless. I wouldn't use aluminum.

Coolio

Ran a boil test today with controller and keg and ran into first problem: side 4" TC flange leaks pretty bad, 2-3 drops/sec. I made sure the clamp was pretty tight, using a 4" TC cap and PFTE gasket. Tightening clamp doesn't seem to have much of an effect, so I think maybe the flange is warped. Don't think it is leaking at the weld. I'll wait for it to cool down and take a look. I may go to a different gasket here, like a FDA EPDM or FEP over silicone type that is softer and seals better (it's below the wash line, so not in vapor path). Comments?

Congratulations. Try an everlasting gasket to alleviate the drip.

Should have known - teflon tape was the simple answer. The PTFE gaskets are hard and don't seal as well as the softer materials, so I just spiral-wrapped the PTFE gasket (mummified it) with the tape, viola, no leak, and I didn't have to tighten the clamp too tight. I did find a slight ding in the clamp on one side that I squeezed in the vise a tad. Anyway it is GTG now.

So on with the boil test: I put in about 8-9 gal water and fired up controller on 100%. I put a kitchen thermometer in the water.
In 18 min temp was at 173 F. In 30 min I was boiling water. Controller heat sink never got more than slightly warm. Think my boiler is good to go, except for maybe a little insulation. I am super happy with how it turned out! The bottom half of my rig is done!

Now I need to finish my dang boka head and PS head... one thing at a time. With luck I'll be doing cleaning runs soon. Got a couple big bags of sugar to make a simple wash for the cleaning run. Gonna keep some for killin' fire ants.

OK work has been busy, so not much time to work on hobbies, but I got my pot still built. I cleaned it well, scrubbed and brushed inside with vinegar. Looks super shiny and clean inside! Getting ready to do cleaning runs. Gonna run 1:2 white vinegar water first in the morning, steam her out real well. After that, I am running a simple turbo sugar wash for the sacrificial run (to be discarded, hence the turbo for convenience). After that she should be ready to run.

Vinegar run went well, and the controller worked perfectly. I let the steam rip on 100% (all 5500 W) 'till the vinegar smell was too much. Then I turned on the water a tad and went to 50%. My Leibig knocked down all the steam and I got a pretty good output of distilled vinegar that felt cool. Water coming out was quite warm but not too hot. I distilled about a half gal of vinegar and it was perfectly clear, so I called it good. Now for the sac run.

Looking good!
ss

p.s. - I see the sweet feed and cracked corn in the background...make sure you study up on tips with those, i.e. - how to gelatinize the corn, proper crush, enzymes, and temperatures, etc. It'll help ensure your "mash success".

I'll be using the Tried and True recipes. The SF doesn't really get converted much, mostly it just flavors the sugar wash, and I'll be doing Booner's with the corn using pintoshine's enzymes. My first (hopefully) keeper run will be 2 batches of Odin's cornflakes recipe: a virgin run to strip low wines, then a second run with 25% backset and the low wines from first run added.

jawjatek wrote:Brand new Kegco stainless. I wouldn't use aluminum.

Same keg as mine, I bought off EBay, 304 ss. I'm using the top 2" for the drain and welding 2-4" furrels in the bottom, One for loading so I don't have to remove column And of course the other 4" is for the Bokabok Column. Bought a 4x2" reducer almost like a bowl shape so I can use a 2" Bokabok first. Welded in 2-1-1/2" furrels for the 2-1500w elements. I would love a controller for the elements but I have no clue about anything electrical. I'm a high pressure welder/fitter not an electrician. One thing that I have done that I feel is very important is to fit all furrels with a small gap so I could put a full penetration root in all joints, this leaves no exposed edges for crudd to sit and bacteria to grow. This is the way food piping is done. I might also weld another 2" furrel in in the centre so I can put in one of those high pressure cleaning heads to clean it crystal clean after emtying the spent wash. But I have not bought that as of yet, it may be 1-1/2" fitting. got a little long with this post