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Hello all,
I had a quick question. Right now I connect my 2' x 48' Boka to my 1/2 keg boiler. I have an ez flange setup but I find I was getting small leaks due to the flange not being fully flat or other minor imperfections (I have flattened and shaped it several times since). I have flattened my ptfe gasket and wrapped it in ptfe tape so that it might mold better between the connections but still leak occasionally. I then end up wrapping the entire connection in ptfe tape then clamping and this does the job. Does anyone know if there is a sanke to tri clamp adapter apart from removing the sanke and welding a new ferrule in its place?

If not... I have a 2' copper ferrule that I could weld on to the boka and then just modify a new gasket to flatten one side... anyone think this will seal better? I am really looking for the stability of a ferrule/ferrule connection if possible but will settle for more consistent "leak free" connections.

The Sanke opening is ideal to mate with a 2" triclover ferrule.

So, yes...adapt your boka with the copper ferrule and get a teflon gasket (available online inexpensively...so buy a couple). Then simply sand one side flat (the side that mates with the Sanke) and the bead on the other side will fit nicely into the groove in your 2" copper ferrule.

With a triclover clamp you can easily draw it down to eliminate all leaks, since the TC joint is tapered like the TC clamp.
ss

The PTFE gaskets are really hard; I sanded down one side and wrapped it in several rounds of PTFE TAPE and it seems to be OK.
Guess you could gob some flour paste on it......

Still dragon, copper ez flange ferrule.

Everlast seal might fix things right up. They seam more forgiving than the solid ptfe seals.

B

I would cut the snake port off and tig weld a new ferrule. How ever not everyone has this option. I noticed that if you take a 2" ferrule and drop the neck side down into the snake port one could solder the ferrule to that port easily. Again that's not the way I would do it but I'm sure it would work for others.

ericrichards420 wrote:I noticed that if you take a 2" ferrule and drop the neck side down into the snake port one could solder the ferrule to that port easily. Again that's not the way I would do it but I'm sure it would work for others.

I did this on a 5 gallon snake that I converted to a 2000w/120v boiler that I use for spirit runs occasionally. It was a tight fit when beat in with a rubber mallet and could have gone without the solder but I had some Stay Clean flux on hand and the boiler works wonders.

Snackson wrote:

ericrichards420 wrote:I noticed that if you take a 2" ferrule and drop the neck side down into the snake port one could solder the ferrule to that port easily. Again that's not the way I would do it but I'm sure it would work for others.

I did this on a 5 gallon snake that I converted to a 2000w/120v boiler that I use for spirit runs occasionally. It was a tight fit when beat in with a rubber mallet and could have gone without the solder but I had some Stay Clean flux on hand and the boiler works wonders.

ericrichards420 and Snackson.... THIS WAS GOLD! Why on god's green earth it never occurred to me to put a 2' ferrule into the sanke port...I will never know.
I bought a few of these way back when...
I flipped it over and coaxed it into the sanke port with a rubber mallet.... like a glove! I will run it with h2o to see how it looks and can always solder it in if necessary.

Glad I could help out buddy!

It's amazing what you will find if you keep reading old threads!

I've always been kind of "meh" regarding the fit of the Sanke top keg with the 2" triclamp ferrule. Always seemed to kind of slide around when trying to get it hooked up. Not to mention the PTFE gaskets are too thick unless you remove one of the ridges.

I have a couple of 2" spools that I have converted into LM heads. I have no need for the top ferrule. They are a perfect slip fit into the Sankes on my kegs. I'll be doing some soldering later today!

I never liked the sanke to triclamp connection either, to fidgety since the sanke isn't tapered. This was the source of many leaks.

This led me to get a buddy to mig weld some ferrules in the sankes. Turns out he wasn't as good a welder as either of us thought. Took a few tries to get rid of leaks and they are ugly as homemade sin. I should have just soldered them.

Me being the way I am I decided to learn how to Tig weld, about to install 220 supply and buy a welder. We'll see how that works out...

Another way I saw on here somewhere was to attach a very short spool (2" tall), clamp it down good and then you have a propper ferrule to attach the column to as often as you like with out disturbing the flat seal.

This is something I wish I had heard about on day one. Whenever anyone suggests you get a Sanke keg for a boiler they should also recommend you get it "fixed". It's so easy to do and will save you grief every time you use it.

"There, I fixed it for me"

Time travelling from 2 days in the past to note that this works for all 2" ferrules (copper OR stainless) as long as the sleeve outer diameter is 2" exactly.

The ferrules that slip *on* or *in* a pipe will not fit. So basically just the weld on type. Or if you cut an end off a 2" spool or something.