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I know these are all over HD but I'm the type that needs to put it on paper to wrap my head around it. Could someone please look this over and see if it's correct. All advice welcomed. Based off a SD DIY Controller.

That's pretty much it. The 30 amp breaker drawing is a little ambiguous though.

The only question/comment is have is: your positive lead for adapter shouldn't connect to breaker. Instead should connect to SSR. I believe it's common practice to only connect a single wire to a breaker. Also: if the box is metal, use a single grounding screw. That's the same setup I am making and have had an electrician look it over. Do you intend to wire directly to another breaker in the box?

UnSub wrote:The only question/comment is have is: your positive lead for adapter shouldn't connect to breaker. Instead should connect to SSR. I believe it's common practice to only connect a single wire to a breaker. Also: if the box is metal, use a single grounding screw. That's the same setup I am making and have had an electrician look it over. Do you intend to wire directly to another breaker in the box?

I personally think having everything switched is a must, I want the whole system dead when the switch is in the off position.

My SSR does not go all the way down to 0 so having both hot wires go through the switch is a must. I used a dual pole single throw switch to kill all power when I want it off.

The other thing is if you install a volt/ammeter the volt meter needs to be connected to the upstream side of the SSR.

I just built this wiring setup with the addition of Auber's self powered ammeter. It works like a champ and I agree on putting both hot wires through some sort of switch to cutoff power to the element.

Thx for the advice everyone, and yes I will run both hot wires through the breaker to make sure it is completely drawing 0 when it's not in use but still plugged in.

cranky wrote:

UnSub wrote:The only question/comment is have is: your positive lead for adapter shouldn't connect to breaker. Instead should connect to SSR. I believe it's common practice to only connect a single wire to a breaker. Also: if the box is metal, use a single grounding screw. That's the same setup I am making and have had an electrician look it over. Do you intend to wire directly to another breaker in the box?

I personally think having everything switched is a must, I want the whole system dead when the switch is in the off position.

My SSR does not go all the way down to 0 so having both hot wires go through the switch is a must. I used a dual pole single throw switch to kill all power when I want it off.

The other thing is if you install a volt/ammeter the volt meter needs to be connected to the upstream side of the SSR.

Cranky, I agree. What I meant was run the 110 leg post breaker. The drawing is ambiguous as said already. Instead of using a breaker, I'm using a 110v/220vac contractor (recommended by my electrician)

UnSub wrote: Cranky, I agree. What I meant was run the 110 leg post breaker. The drawing is ambiguous as said already. Instead of using a breaker, I'm using a 110v/220vac contractor (recommended by my electrician)

I realized that a few minutes ago. Mine has a separate circuit for the fan because my extension cord is only 3 wires but also because I like to keep the fan running for a while after I kill the SSR, so if it were me I would actually connect the fan to a switch prior to the breaker so I could turn it off after everything else has gotten a chance to cool down.

What if the potentiometer itself has a low voltage disconnect switch (rocker)? Wouldn't that accomplish keeping the fan operational and eliminating the current output of the SSR?
or is it zero resistance is full power- I dont remember now...

UnSub wrote:What if the potentiometer itself has a low voltage disconnect switch (rocker)? Wouldn't that accomplish keeping the fan operational and eliminating the current output of the SSR?
or is it zero resistance is full power- I dont remember now...

If I remember right the less resistance the more power, having the fan switched separately probably isn't really necessary.

I planned on using the Auberin High Amperage Main Switch/Breaker. It's actually 32amp.

It looks to me like you are running a 240v to the fan and no ground to a 12v fan.

Halfbaked wrote:It looks to me like you are running a 240v to the fan and no ground to a 12v fan.

That was one of my concerns about the setup. So it should be neutral and ground and not neutral and hot?

Fan wiring is fine.

Neutral and one hot leg will give you 120v.

12v adapter is probably only 2 wire anyway so no ground is ok.

Kegg_jam wrote:Fan wiring is fine.

Neutral and one hot leg will give you 120v.

12v adapter is probably only 2 wire anyway so no ground is ok.

Yes it is just a two wire adapter. The more I try to read up on the 4 wire system the more I get confused on the neutral wire.

Only reason for the neutral in this case is to provide 120v to your accessories.

(No ground for transformer is ok but you still need a ground for the keg- I think that's what that means?)

Okay I tried to cleanup my second grade schematic. Hopefully this will clear things up and you all will be able to help me out a little better. The link below is the breaker I want to use. It states I can run both hots through the breaker.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=580" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

You still need a hot leg to go to the 12v adapter.

It was right before. So one neutral and one hot will give you the 120v for the adapter.

Kegg_jam wrote:You still need a hot leg to go to the 12v adapter.

It was right before. So one neutral and one hot will give you the 120v for the adapter.

So run the ground straight to the box and hot wire to adapter and I should be good correct?

Google "multiwire branch circuit".

In the US in your breaker box you'll have a 240V breaker, that breaker is actually two 120V breakers on both legs of your house service, then you have your white neutral wire which bypasses the breaker and is tied to your house grounding.

Each 120V leg is 180 degrees out of phase so each leg in reference to the neutral is 120V but in ref to the other hot is 240V. So you dont really have 240V service to your house, its only two 120V lines.

Your bare copper ground is STRICTLY a safety ground and should NEVER EVER be used as part of a circuit to carry power. The bare copper ground is a "chassis" ground and goes to your metal outlet boxes and breaker box surround. The ONLY place ground and neutral should ever touch each other is in your main breaker panel.

The white neutral wire is used as the return for both 120V hot legs, the hots are usually black and red. In fact because the neutral is common to both, if you have two branch 120V loads of exactly the same power usage it's possible for the white common to not be carrying any current at all because the two out-of-phase 120V legs are cancelling each other out, which IMO is kind of cool.

Jneef88 wrote:

Kegg_jam wrote:You still need a hot leg to go to the 12v adapter.

It was right before. So one neutral and one hot will give you the 120v for the adapter.

So run the ground straight to the box and hot wire to adapter and I should be good correct?

Correct. Connect the green ground to the same lug on the box as your other grounds. If you use an old school analog voltmeter you can connect it after the SSR and monitor the voltage going to the element.

Thank you everyone for the help! I think I might have a clue now. Parts will be coming in over the next couple days. I had an electrician look this over today and he said to run the ground coming in straight to the box ground other than that he said it looked good. I'd still like others opinion on it.

I'm not really sure what I was seeing. I didn't see the 12 volt adapter. I thought you had 2 hot 110 v wires going to it. I'm not exactly how I could have missed that

Halfbaked wrote:I'm not really sure what I was seeing. I didn't see the 12 volt adapter. I thought you had 2 hot 110 v wires going to it. I'm not exactly how I could have missed that

No worries! It made me research and read into HD more and learn a lot. I just know building a controller is a much cheaper option than buying one. Only problem is wiring is not something I have much know how of. Just wanted to make sure what I thought was right actually is right before I burn down the house.

Why not just put a heatsink on the top and get rid of the fan

I have a heat sink with a fan..
Actually purchased 5 of them:)

I have my heat sink mounted on the outside with the SSVR mounted to it. Haven't had any issues with the still box of my brewing box that has 3 SSRs and no fans. As long as the heatsink is large enough you don't need the air

Saw the comment about DPST breaker switch. I've spent the morning on the Google looking at DPDT switches with thoughts of having the option of 110 or 220 depending on my work area.
Does anyone else do this? I can't find any 30 amp DPDT rocker switches.
For reference, below link is closest I've found...

http://m.ebay.com/itm/DPDT-Double-Pole- ... nav=SEARCH" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow


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That is a pilot duty switch for controlling relays.

AC