Home Distiller

Hi all, I'm looking to get you guys/girls opinions on a new reflux still to restart my homemade hootch hobby. Previously I used a home made pot still from a 30l dairy container and 1.25" copper with worm condenser. The rig is now in somewhat disrepair with the condenser falling apart so I'm looking for something new. Something better.

I'm thinking of purchasing a reflux instead of building as components are rather expensive here in Canada and my experience with larger diameter piping etc on the minimal side. ( if anyone is in Toronto and wants to help me build one that would be awesome!). I have narrowed it down to a few options;

1. Nixon-stone 2"
http://www.olympicdistillers.com/copper ... olumn-only" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

2. Boka style 2" using reducers
http://www.olympicdistillers.com/copper ... olumn-only" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

3. Boka style 2" using slated plates
http://m.ebay.ca/itm/2-in-1-Copper-E85- ... nav=SEARCH" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

4. VM 2"
http://m.ebay.ca/itm/3-in-1-Copper-E85- ... nav=SEARCH" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

5. Combo of 3 and 4 for extra charge


Does anyone have experience with either supplier? Out of the stills listed which would be the best to go with? Olympic Distillers looks like a pretty solid offering but its more expensive to go through them but over all looks like a more complete and "professional" setup with s fancier spun coil etc. It will be going on an 8 gallon boiler, potentially 13 gallon

On a side note. Taking into account boiler size, what are your opinions regarding 2" vs 3" columns? Will run times of the 2" be horrible? On my pot still, a run would take 6 or 7 hours.

Thanks everyone!

What the heck are you heating with....straw? 6-7 hours for a potstill run on a 30 liter boiler....SLOWWWWWW.

For a 30 liter boiler, I would recommend the 2" column, simply because you'll run fast enough with a higher reflux ratio on a LM. It would be less expensive to buy/build a 2" system than a 3" system...pipe, fittings, valves, etc.

The advantage of a 3" column comes into play if you've got a 15-20 gallon boiler because of the increased production rates possible for a larger still charge.

And speaking of boilers, if you're electric you'll have a fine control of heating and vapor production. A propane burner works but it is harder to "fine tune" the heat input.

I would suggest that you read a lot more before you commit dollars to the endeavor. Buying is an option...but you can gain skills by building your still. Plus, with building, you'll become intimate with your tools and the still itself. It will help you understand the "quirks" of your system, and how best to overcome them.
ss

Thanks for the reply still-sturrin. It was over a banjo burner and run really slow for spirit runs. I don't have the most experience with distilling or fabrication and continually read through this forum to learn more.

Whats your opinion on a boka style vs the offset? Is one better than the other since the offset costsore to build or buy?

stefan416 wrote:...Whats your opinion on a boka style vs the offset? Is one better than the other since the offset costs more to build or buy?

The Bokakob will give you high proof neutral....but it's slooooooow. The Nixon-Stone (offset) will get you there too and it's a little faster than the Boka, but not much. In fact, most LM are quite slow, especially if you're running a high reflux ratio. They'll give you high proof (if that's what your goal is) and may be detuned a little to try to push more flavors through, but not much.

For the best rate of product and flavor diversity, the VM is a great choice. It's a lot easier to run too...set your reflux ratio, stabilize and start the take off. And the CCVM, the condenser controlled vapor managed still is easy to build and will produce the variety of product.

Its your choice...which style you want and how much you want to spend.
ss

I have only run my 2" vm but I have learned a ton about reflux ratios. My thoughts is that you can build a better still then any of the ones you listed.
My 2" vm can take off a liter of 86% for a 6 1/2 gallon charge in about 2 1/2 hours. That's including removing fores and heads. From start to flame out.
My point is you can do better if you try. Good luck!

still_stirrin wrote:

stefan416 wrote: The Bokakob will give you high proof neutral....but it's slooooooow.
ss

It's HOLY SHIT I'm still here slow.... 6-7 hours for a 10 gallon charge was my average! Back then I was young in the hobby and enjoyed watching the drip, drip, drip of high proof EtOH but now.... F**K that.

still_stirrin wrote: I would suggest that you read a lot more before you commit dollars to the endeavor. Buying is an option...but you can gain skills by building your still. Plus, with building, you'll become intimate with your tools and the still itself. It will help you understand the "quirks" of your system, and how best to overcome them.
ss

All good advice above but this is the best so far if you can realize what is being said. I am always willing to pay good money for something that I have researched and find to be a quality product that is exactly what I want. You need to decide what you want out of the still: I want to make XXX, I want it to be versatile, I want it to be modular, I want it to grow with my knowledge of the hobby.... All these answers are here somewhere... don't piss away good money before ya know what your pissing on.

The dual reducer LM is the fastest of the LM bunch listed here and is middle of the road as far as required components and probably the easiest from a build complexity standpoint... It can also be built as a concentric... Not to mention that they also seem to be easier to get 95% neutral spirits out of...