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I am getting ready to build my 2" boka and have some 2 inch sanitary flanges coming but am looking for options to attach the flanges. As I understand it, the flanges will have a 2 inch od, the same as the tubing. Other than having them tigged on, has anyone soldered them on with a strip of copper around the circumference, essentially forming a "sleeve" with 16 Oz copper sheet, held tight with some hose clamps to solder them together? I thought that some stay-clean flux and 95/5 would be the trick to tack them together. Am I missing something much easier?

Most 2" tri clamp ferrules I have used slide right into the piping. You may need to heat the pipe up and tap it in, but should be a snug fit.

This is 304 stainless tubing with an od of 2", will the standard 2" flanges butt up to it or is the ID of the flange 2"? They are these fittings. The tubing is .065
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262454340052?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I had thought originally that 2" copper couplers would work, but they are 2 1/8" ID. I could wrap some copper wire around the pipe for a snug fitting and solder/braze them on, but I thought a more elegant solution may present itself with some properly lubricated thinking.

Messy.

Best solution is to take them to a sanitary welder and have them TiG welded. The ferrules are designed for butt welds to the stainless tubing. I'd just "bite the bullet" and dig into the pocket book. You'll be sorry if you "cheap out".
ss

p.s.- If a copper coupling is 1/8" too big on the ID, how about copper pipe? See if type M is available, its the thinest walled pipe, besides DWV.

I've got "many" feet of the 304 at a very attractive price, so looking for a solution for that. I know the welding option is certainly the best, but I've got enough stock to play with. Maybe swaging copper is an option to look at.

Okay, so you're going SS to SS instead of copper. I've done that once on my original Mile High dual column I bought. The top was open and a rubber bung went into it and I soldered a stainless ferrule in so I could put a tri clamp end cap on it with a small hole drilled in for the thermometer to take its place. Anyways, it is plenty strong and worked well. Like still stirrin said, best bet is to cough up the dough and get it tig welded so it will last a lifetime.

EEZY PEEZY,, GSP, not too worry about your ferrules. They will slip right into 2 inch Type M tubing. Solder away, Sir !!!!!!

http://www.petersenproducts.com/Specifi ... opper.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I feel pretty silly I didn't see that dimension on type M before this. I was thinking DWV all the time. Now to source a small chunk to chop into rings.
If it doesn't seem solid, TIG is always an option. Thanks SS and FMH.

There are SS ferules named Recessless Ferules. Also called Roll On Ferrules. They slip or the end of standard SS pipe sizes and then you put a slight flare on the end of the pipe and drive the ferule back down the flare. The seal takes place at the end with any standard gasket.

No soldering and no welding. I have used them many times.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-SANITARY-EXPA ... IgtGuf41xA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

DAD300 wrote:There are SS ferules named Recessless Ferules. Also called Roll On Ferrules. They slip or the end of standard SS pipe sizes and then you put a slight flare on the end of the pipe and drive the ferule back down the flare. The seal takes place at the end with any standard gasket.

No soldering and no welding. I have used them many times.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-SANITARY-EXPA ... IgtGuf41xA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Those look damn nice, if I hadn't already gotten the ferrules on the way, I may have used these! I was looking for video on how they are installed so I could understand it, but haven't found it.

Do the recessed ferrules work on copper tubing?

I assume the dimensions would be wrong, but the idea would be the same.