Home Distiller

How bad would it be to just add 2" copper to a 3" end cap instead of buying a reducer would it do really bad things?
Like a dead stop?
Much cheaper!
I've got most of my stuff for a 3"column now
Can cut a piece of my 9'9" 3" copper down to like 24" length of 3" down the length and tig weld it to make a cone but cannot figure out the math for the sizes so I can do it first time and I want it spot on!
Desperately need a size/length, joint, coil list for minime's 3" vm so I can build summat no bother I just want to get it right first time.
I got a 2" bok and a 2"to 1/2"potstill with 36" 3/4 over 1/2 inch Liebig pot still but I'm bored, not even run the bok yet want some more copper porn!
Also got 20" 3" pipe over and a few 2" 90's to make a fast stripper/pot still just for giggles
But concerned over the condenser cos bigger ain't better and I do not want the vapour running down the middle of a massive bore Liebig to knock back 5500 gas burner heat units (big broiler burner)
100lb propane tank to run it too!
Whisky fuelled post (shop bought cos I've run out) and ginger
help me out guys lol


Too much store bought ginger grouse tonight lol

Or a 3" flute? Hmmm

Hmmm looking at 'new moonshiners' Lm/vm combo column
Looks good

It wouldn't be hard to make a reducer cone... Measure the outside of your 2" pipe to find its circumference... Scribe a centerline down the 3" section to be used for the cone... Measure half the circumference distance in each direction from the centerline... Now scribe a line from those two points to the centerline at the opposite end of the 3" pipe... Remove that triangular portion you just marked off... That is your frustum... All that is left is to shape and solder your 3" - 2" cone reducer...

rad14701 wrote:It wouldn't be hard to make a reducer cone... Measure the outside of your 2" pipe to find its circumference... Scribe a centerline down the 3" section to be used for the cone... Measure half the circumference distance in each direction from the centerline... Now scribe a line from those two points to the centerline at the opposite end of the 3" pipe... Remove that triangular portion you just marked off... That is your frustum... All that is left is to shape and solder your 3" - 2" cone reducer...

Or send me a PM and I will do it in seconds with my CAD software for you. If I draw it as a 3D solid object I can do a roll-out that does everything but add the tabs. I enjoy doing these projects and did a lot of the lay-out plans for Mash Rookie when he was alive. Really miss the challenges he had in innovative design ideas.

Ok cool so I take it a 2" tube into a 3" stopend would be real bad lol
Pm'd you bushman
Anyone know the size of Mini's vm main tube?
I'm gonna try to tig weld the 3" to the reducer save buying another 3" straight just got an all singing all dancing machine in work lol I'll use off copper wire for filler

If this works with the tig I'm gonna make old dogs copper still maybe, no soldering just copper to copper joints priced up the copper sheet it's £174 for 8ft x 4ft .7 mm thick

Bushman wrote:

rad14701 wrote:It wouldn't be hard to make a reducer cone... Measure the outside of your 2" pipe to find its circumference... Scribe a centerline down the 3" section to be used for the cone... Measure half the circumference distance in each direction from the centerline... Now scribe a line from those two points to the centerline at the opposite end of the 3" pipe... Remove that triangular portion you just marked off... That is your frustum... All that is left is to shape and solder your 3" - 2" cone reducer...

Or send me a PM and I will do it in seconds with my CAD software for you. If I draw it as a 3D solid object I can do a roll-out that does everything but add the tabs. I enjoy doing these projects and did a lot of the lay-out plans for Mash Rookie when he was alive. Really miss the challenges he had in innovative design ideas.

Yep... Easy to bang out the pattern but really not necessary when starting out with tube... Not that you can't wrap the pattern around the tube and end up with the same end result as I described... I've got several frustum pattern generators on hand... I made a few motorcycle expansion chamber exhaust systems for racing bikes using the method I described way back before PC's - circa 1970's... Never even drew them out in the manner that has been described elsewhere here in these forums... Where there's a will, there's a way...!!!

Oddly enough, the coffee table in front of me has had a couple hand drawn frustum layouts and paper mock-ups on it for the past few days... Always nice to stay keen on manual methods, lest we forget how... Can't say that the SOH is all that thrilled about my commandeering the coffee table, however...

Im not daft I just don't picture things from 3D to flat in my mind, often bend z shapes instead of u shapes in steel etc
I got the cone and cut it out it's great now how do you extend a cone out straight ? Like to add a sleeve on the end of it
Just a half inch or so do you come off it straight of follow the same pattern as the cone travels