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Found this diagram in one of the electric keg threads . Pretty sure it's correct but it never hurts to be too careful.

Your thoughts before I start a purchase or two.

Yup, that's correct for a basic wiring setup.

Be sure not to skip the ground to the Keg!

That's an accurate wiring diagram... Very simple and straightforward...

Thanks gents. pretty basic I thought.

Any chance you could post which thread you originally found that diagram in? It's exactly the kind of thing I need to see more of. Simplified diagrams that go from wall to element showing everything in between to wrap my mind around what's happening in all the builds I'm seeing.

I've had hours upon hours of classes in physics and electrical engineering learning how electons move through circuitry, but I swear its like reading a different language seeing components and terms tossed around from an electrician's perspective as if it were common knowledge.

BDF wrote:Any chance you could post which thread you originally found that diagram in?

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 0#p7070262

The "epic"...
ss

still_stirrin wrote:

BDF wrote:Any chance you could post which thread you originally found that diagram in?

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 0#p7070262

The "epic"...
ss

Found the exact one in the reading lounge for anyone else interested: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 62&t=17383

On a similar note, I'm running a 5500w uld element wired per the above diagram at 110. I added an ammeter and a computer fan. The fan is on a wall wart. I used 10-3 wire and 30 amp plugs and switches with the idea that I could upgrade to 220 with a minimum of fuss. I moved a short time ago and the new house has a 4 wire 220 outlet. I'm finally getting around to the upgrade and am having trouble visualizing how this should work with 4 wires.

I've seen in a couple of threads where some people have just capped the neutral line. Is that safe? My electronics background is admittedly pretty limited. I'm not terribly excited about rewiring my controller, but I want it to be safe and correct. I have found several threads that purport to have pictures/schematics like the one above for the 4 wire setup, but so far all of the image links I have found have been broken/corrupted. I will keep looking, but if anyone has a verified image that they could point me to, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

P.s - I have a second element that is wired with a simple on/off switch to help with heat up on larger charges. I mounted it too high, so unless I am running in excess of 10 gallons, it doesn't get used.

Opdog wrote:On a similar note, I'm running a 5500w uld element wired per the above diagram at 110. I added an ammeter and a computer fan. The fan is on a wall wart. I used 10-3 wire and 30 amp plugs and switches with the idea that I could upgrade to 220 with a minimum of fuss. I moved a short time ago and the new house has a 4 wire 220 outlet. I'm finally getting around to the upgrade and am having trouble visualizing how this should work with 4 wires.

I've seen in a couple of threads where some people have just capped the neutral line. Is that safe? My electronics background is admittedly pretty limited. I'm not terribly excited about rewiring my controller, but I want it to be safe and correct. I have found several threads that purport to have pictures/schematics like the one above for the 4 wire setup, but so far all of the image links I have found have been broken/corrupted. I will keep looking, but if anyone has a verified image that they could point me to, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

P.s - I have a second element that is wired with a simple on/off switch to help with heat up on larger charges. I mounted it too high, so unless I am running in excess of 10 gallons, it doesn't get used.

When running on a 10-3 feed your wall wart should be plugged into its own 120V outlet because the 10-3 consists of two hots and a ground, with no neutral... A 10-4 feed has two hots, a ground, and a neutral which would then allow you to run the wall wart off either of the hots and the neutral safely...

Thanks Rad. The fan is currently wired independently and plugged into its own outlet.

I think I'm following you. I will draw it out when I get home from work to be sure. The neutral line was throwing me off.


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ExpatLad wrote:Yup, that's correct for a basic wiring setup.

Be sure not to skip the ground to the Keg!

You mention grounding to your keg, I have a Triclamp flange cover for my element that has a ground in it. And I take it that it's grounding thru the actual clamp to the keg,should I weld a small bolt on and run a wire directly to the cover? Only problem is that if I want to switch back and fourth to making beer vs distilling I would have to unbolt the wire every time. Is that what everyone does that has one of the triclamp adapters? Thanks
This is what I'm talking about: https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Cashjohn, my neighbor simply added a stainless bolt to the keg skirt and runs his ground to that. 5/16" bolt with locknuts. Very,very secure.

Cashjon wrote:

ExpatLad wrote:Yup, that's correct for a basic wiring setup.

Be sure not to skip the ground to the Keg!

You mention grounding to your keg, I have a Triclamp flange cover for my element that has a ground in it. And I take it that it's grounding thru the actual clamp to the keg,should I weld a small bolt on and run a wire directly to the cover? Only problem is that if I want to switch back and fourth to making beer vs distilling I would have to unbolt the wire every time. Is that what everyone does that has one of the triclamp adapters? Thanks
This is what I'm talking about: https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

No need to weld a anything to the keg if you are grounding to you element cover/holder. When it it clamped to the keg via the Tri-clover it will be grounded that way.

MrBee

MrBee wrote:

No need to weld a anything to the keg if you are grounding to you element cover/holder. When it it clamped to the keg via the Tri-clover it will be grounded that way.

MrBee

Heaven forbid if the tri-clamp connection should be compromised for some oddball reason. I put a lug on the skirt of my keg as an additional grounding point..

Can't be too safe around electric stuff.

Well i suppose that would be like wearing a belt and suspenders at the same time. Lol.
I'm fine with it on my try clamp however if it eases your mind then a ground lug directly on the keg will be a good idea.

MrBee

MrBee wrote:Well i suppose that would be like wearing a belt and suspenders at the same time. Lol. MrBee

I've often wondered about that very same thing !

MrBee wrote:I'm fine with it on my try clamp however if it eases your mind then a ground lug directly on the keg will be a good idea.

MrBee

Wasn't being confrontatioal but my tee shirt sezz. SHIT happens !

It's safe to PROPERLY cap the white wire in the four wire system if it's not used . If you want to use it then look at the ( white , black, green) as if it was the white black and green in a normal 120 circuit. You could choose either the Black or Red and just branch off of it. I would select to black just because of the visual of a normal 120 circuit - black , white, and green.

MrBee.

I hear you Blarney,
I work in industrial maintenance and have seen plenty of them OhShit moments that some folks didnt think could happen.

Didnt take you as confrontational. No worries.

MrBee

Blarney Stoned wrote:Found this diagram in one of the electric keg threads . Pretty sure it's correct but it never hurts to be too careful.

Your thoughts before I start a purchase or two.

The wiring is correct but the labels suck.

1. Left of the green wire where it says "nuteral (ground)" it is not a neutral, it is the equipment ground, a non current carrying conductor.

2. Terminal#1 on the relay is not a neutral, it is a hot.

There is no neutral in the diagram.

Words matter.

skow69 wrote:

Blarney Stoned wrote:Found this diagram in one of the electric keg threads . Pretty sure it's correct but it never hurts to be too careful.

Your thoughts before I start a purchase or two.

The wiring is correct but the labels suck.

1. Left of the green wire where it says "nuteral (ground)" it is not a neutral, it is the equipment ground, a non current carrying conductor.

2. Terminal#1 on the relay is not a neutral, it is a hot.

There is no neutral in the diagram.

Words matter.

I believe that diagram has been edited several times over the years for both 120V and 240V operation and, unfortunately, the labeling was only partially modified... I've noticed the same mis-labeling on several re-used diagrams... Good wiring, bad labels...

Blarney Stoned wrote:Cashjohn, my neighbor simply added a stainless bolt to the keg skirt and runs his ground to that. 5/16" bolt with locknuts. Very,very secure.

Thanks, I understand what you mean, but If he did that I take it that he either connects it to the bolt every time or he has some sort of a quick connection. I can see a quick connections would be fine but not connecting to bolt every time. Like others say the clamps should work fine but there is nothing wrong with being to safe. Thanks for the idea of just drilling hole and bolting vs welding (which I was gonna do) but bolting is always better.

Cashjon, Yes he uses a quick connection at the end of his power cord and wraps it up after each session. Ground (green) stays on the boiler all the time. Wire it up and you will see how simple it is.

Just logged in and there you were.

Blarney Stoned wrote:Cashjon, Yes he uses a quick connection at the end of his power cord and wraps it up after each session. Ground (green) stays on the boiler all the time. Wire it up and you will see how simple it is.

Just logged in and there you were.

Yes I drilled a hole today, put stainless bolt on with lock washer and nut, have another nut ready once I make ground. What I have is a triclamp cover for my element, so I will put ground on outside of cord with quick connect and connect ground wire to keg with quick connect, that way when I remove element to use on Beer brew keggle I can do same there. That's what I meant by quick connect. I'm sure clamp is suffice but never hurts to add safety.