Home Distiller

so when I built my electric boiler I flipped the keg so that I would have a 2" drain, and I had a 8" TC ferrule welded on top. this allowed me to get access for cleaning and all of that.

my problem though, is that I've never had a good system for holding the thing up. I've mostly been using milk crates or buckets with holes in them and its a pain in the ass. those of you who have this kind of a setup, what are you doing to have that height offset? welding some nuts on the bottom and using carriage bolts or couch feet comes to mind. maybe even some casters in some way. I was considering cutting up a short 30l keg by removing top and bottom as well as big cut outs on the sides but that's a waste of a keg, and then some kind of a bracket and wing nut so that they get linked together when being moved ...and while I'm sure that the height loss on those setups wont be a problem - I also need to be able to put it a bit higher for when I'm doing a beer.

three or 4 sticks of angle iron with a circle of rebar welded to them, one circle to support it around the centre with some straps and another circle of rebar to girdle it. if you need height adjustment you can just lap 2 pieces of angle iron, drill holes and bolt them together.

15" wheel rim and bricks to gain the height you need for your drain .Google wheel rim burner for some pics .

Stitch weld 4 even pieces of Angle iron to the skirt on the base, and use some 1 1/2 inch flat bar as bracing.

I made a rolling cart/stand for my thumper with bottom drain. It's nice to be able to move it out of the way if I need to. Just a simple cart with 2x4 laid one way and pallet wood laying across the other way. 2x4 running vertical and 2x4 platform for the keg. Cross brace diagonal across the back and it's solid. Made it tall enough to put a bucket underneath for draining or storage.

SR

I built a cabinet to hold my keg up. Check my signature for the link. Mine is built to be moved by a hand truck.

Lotta good options here!

Use three legs, not four.
Three will compensate for any unevenness in the floor, whatever.
Four will not and the whole thing will wobble.
Geoff

thanks guys. I might try that wheel rim thing. I think I have an old aluminum one around somewhere.

I used a wheel rim for a gas burner stand.
Geoff

US kegs have holes predrilled into the rim on the top and bottom. I made these holes just a little bigger and used casters. Works great and is easily moveable. You may need bigger casters for good drain placement

rgreen2002 wrote:US kegs have holes predrilled into the rim on the top and bottom. I made these holes just a little bigger and used casters. Works great and is easily moveable. You may need bigger casters for good drain placement

wheels.jpg

I like that idea for non propane fired stills .

Truckinbutch wrote:

rgreen2002 wrote:US kegs have holes predrilled into the rim on the top and bottom. I made these holes just a little bigger and used casters. Works great and is easily moveable. You may need bigger casters for good drain placement

wheels.jpg

I like that idea for non propane fired stills .

I would think that if you were running propane you wouldn't have a bottom drain..... I will admit i never really thought about that one before having always run electric (I sure as hell don't trust myself with fire... )

I ended up repurposing the cart that my ancient shop vac was built into (when it died) it works great

Massassi wrote:I ended up repurposing the cart that my ancient shop vac was built into (when it died) it works great

Well don't just tease us about it..... give us a look!

I went the cart route and put the drain under it.

AC

AC, I love that HD wall artwork. And even in plum!
ss

I would think that if you were running propane you wouldn't have a bottom drain..... I will admit i never really thought about that one before having always run electric (I sure as hell don't trust myself with fire... )
My boiler is socketed in a wheel rim support on top of a 60k btu burner . I had to locate the drain at the lowest point I could get a weld spud in place on the side . Takes a little extra flushing when I drain it . Otherwise , it works well .

Here's a stand I am putting together for my keg boiler. Three legs to make leveling easier, one fixed and two adjustable. Welded out of 1" angle into an octagon. Threaded brass adjusters, stainless legs and nylon feet. Also a view of my drain assembly. Plan on utilizing the existing holes in the keg rim to bolt the stand onto the keg. Not yet cleaned, primed and painted.

Looks good Zed. I did the same thing with the casters. Enlarged the existing holes and thread the casters in there. I can adjust the heights the same way as you have here.

rgreen2002 wrote:Looks good Zed. I did the same thing with the casters. Enlarged the existing holes and thread the casters in there. I can adjust the heights the same way as you have here.

Me too. Works a treat.
ss

That looks great. Ill have to do that. On the keg will silver soldering work as I dont have a tig. the colomn would always be attached to the threaded hole already in the keg. just the caps, and attachmnets to go back and forth from the thumpet would be silver soldered

Soldering, brazing or welding are all applicable in still building. Which process is best / most desirable depends and what is available to you and the specific application, but there isn't much you can't accomplish with a good silver bearing plumber's solder and an acid flux.

zed255 wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 3:00 pm Soldering, brazing or welding are all applicable in still building. Which process is best / most desirable depends and what is available to you and the specific application, but there isn't much you can't accomplish with a good silver bearing plumber's solder and an acid flux.

there is also no reason that you can't bolt or screw anything you want to the bottom rim.

cob wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 3:34 pm

zed255 wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 3:00 pm Soldering, brazing or welding are all applicable in still building. Which process is best / most desirable depends and what is available to you and the specific application, but there isn't much you can't accomplish with a good silver bearing plumber's solder and an acid flux.

there is also no reason that you can't bolt or screw anything you want to the bottom rim.

+1 just need a decent cobalt drill bit to expand the existing holes, to install 3 casters. Works easy

I understood that jfowler99 was asking about other attachments like port ferrules, not the stand itself. A little off topic, but I answered to it. The stand is best bolted on in my opinion, and in my example is bolted on.

Zed , yes thank you. I can tig but only my work has one I I must refrain from bringing kegs into work lol!!! But thank you yes I was looking mor at the silver soldering of the other attacments. All this has been a world of help

zed255 wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 3:00 pm Soldering, brazing or welding are all applicable in still building. Which process is best / most desirable depends and what is available to you and the specific application, but there isn't much you can't accomplish with a good silver bearing plumber's solder and an acid flux.

I'm with you there Zed I wish the folks neebes that never sweat a joint copper to stainless or stainless to stainless would stop would stop weighing in with bad information. I am saying this to make yall look in to Soldering a be for you say welding is safer and stronger.