I was wondering if there are tank-weld stainless ferrules available that have a contour to match the curve on the side of a 55 gallon barrel?
If not, then are folks grinding this curve into the ferrule themselves or is it not an issue when soldering on a ferrule as wide as 6 inches?
Planned to solder the ferrule on first, then cut out the center with a hole saw. Looked on the HD search and didn't find much info.
Just trying to plan things out ahead of time and whether I will need a bench grinder because I'm not sure I'd be steady enough with an angle grinder on a ferrule.
I have not seen a pre fitted tc fitting that large but they may exist. I have coped pipe for different projects and is not hard. Use sharpie to draw amount to take off and grind very carefully and check for fit frequently. Also use only a grinding wheel that is new or has only been used on ss as you will cross contaminate your stainless and develop rust spots. A bench grinder is better but can be done with hand held side grinder and a vice. GL
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brewhardware.com sells TC ferrules with a wide base and contour cut intended to be surface soldered onto a pot. They have them in 1.5" and 2". I've use the 2" and it's perfect for the side of a keg. I imagine it would work fine on a barrel, the clamp you use to hold it in place for soldering should be able to deform the barrel to fit the fitting.
They also have a dimple / pull through TC ferrule in 1.5" which I haven't used but looks pretty darn cool.
These are custom jobs for niche markets though, I don't know of anyone else making anything similar, much less in 6". But having taken a look at the pull through / dimple TC ferrule, that shouldn't be too hard to make in any size. The only custom piece would be a short conical flare piece, and I bet you could get that custom made, maybe even from brewhardware. Maybe you reach a size where a simple bolt doesn't generate enough force, I doubt 6" would be problematic though, if it is you can press it through in some other way, a hydraulic punch tool would do it for sure.
You're surely have to grind it yourself.
But cutting the curve of a 55G barrel into a ferrule could be tricky.
I'd say cut a round into the barrel, fit the ferrule inside and weld it.
After that you'll decide if you want to grind the ferrule from the inside.
cede wrote:You're surely have to grind it yourself.
But cutting the curve of a 55G barrel into a ferrule could be tricky.
I'd say cut a round into the barrel, fit the ferrule inside and weld it.
After that you'll decide if you want to grind the ferrule from the inside.
That would be the fastest least headache inducing way to go. It should be ok if you get the long style, you should only need to cope it out about 1/4".
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zapata wrote:brewhardware.com sells TC ferrules with a wide base and contour cut intended to be surface soldered onto a pot. They have them in 1.5" and 2". I've use the 2" and it's perfect for the side of a keg. I imagine it would work fine on a barrel, the clamp you use to hold it in place for soldering should be able to deform the barrel to fit the fitting.
They also have a dimple / pull through TC ferrule in 1.5" which I haven't used but looks pretty darn cool.
These are custom jobs for niche markets though, I don't know of anyone else making anything similar, much less in 6". But having taken a look at the pull through / dimple TC ferrule, that shouldn't be too hard to make in any size. The only custom piece would be a short conical flare piece, and I bet you could get that custom made, maybe even from brewhardware. Maybe you reach a size where a simple bolt doesn't generate enough force, I doubt 6" would be problematic though, if it is you can press it through in some other way, a hydraulic punch tool would do it for sure.
I just ordered a couple of the 2 inch solder on TC fittings, great HBS that one.
Just wished they were based in Australia would have saved some serious shipping fees
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raketemensch wrote:Anyone else having flashbacks from the whole “turn your kegs on their sides” debate?
Probably just as good as the upright position.
Better for gas than electric (not as much height above the element).
Useful if you need room for a high riser etc. .
