Home Distiller

Hello fellas, I was wondering what you guys think about me concerting my still to electric. I currently have a a 30L (7.9 gallon) SS boiler and I have a 1.5 inch sanitary port with a drain valve. I am thinking on either removing the drain valve and installing the heating element into the boiler or putting a sanitary tee and have the drain offset and element pass through. amazon has two voltage units 120 @ 1650 watts and 240 @ 5500 watts both are about $35. I plan to put a rheostat or similar to dial it down after I reach temp. Should I worry about scorching?

Unless it is an ULD element, yes you will need to be concern with scorching.. need to be concern mean that you will not be able to use full power of the element in an uncleared wash/mash.. find an element of the same size but is ULD, ultra low density element..

Mars

Thanks for the reply, I did see some “ripple” heating elements, are all ripple elements considered ULD?

dirtyhands0321 wrote:are all ripple elements considered ULD?

Not sure on that question.. but it should be stated that its a Ultra LWD element, and if it isn't stated, I would consider it not to be.. some are wavy, other are folded.. check out the name Camco, Rheem, and Demond for element, they are the most popular, but there other companies also..

My error on the full name.. is it ULWD, Ultra light watt density.. also look for a statement to the extend.. Resists dry firing, lime deposits, and sand that would burn out ordinary elements

Mars

I believe that it is a ULWD but they don't state that, it does state resists dry firing,...
Anyway I just ordered one since my new controller fed by a gfci didn't like the bit of leakage to ground that my old element had I'll have it by Friday so I'll let you know how it works.

Trying to be safe
OVZ

dirtyhands0321 wrote: putting a sanitary tee and have the drain offset and element pass through.

I just reread your post and saw that, Not sure but it seems if you did it that way you might end up with a hot spot and a possible scorch spot. I've never tried that but would love to know how it works if you do decide to go that route.


be safe
OVZ

I would keep the drain valve and create a port to install a 240V Ripple Foldback Ultra Low Watt Density heating element like shown on this page. Read the description and you'll find that this is not just an ordinary element. The threaded part is actually stainless steel.



Does anyone know what the actual Camco model number is for this element? I've been searching, cannot find a definitive answer and would like to save it for my notes.

If you can figure out what the actual model # is, you could probably find it for a lot less on eBay, Amazon, etc...

NineInchNails wrote:
Does anyone know what the actual Camco model number is for this element? I've been searching, cannot find a definitive answer and would like to save it for my notes.

If you can figure out what the actual model # is, you could probably find it for a lot less on eBay, Amazon, etc...

I think the model number is Camco 02955 , I have gone through two of them. I toasted one of them when I was playing around with steam mashing and had an issue where I managed to back flow grain back into the steam generator scorching the element so bad that it was destroyed, the second still works but has a ground fault.

OVZ

Oldvine Zin wrote:

NineInchNails wrote:
Does anyone know what the actual Camco model number is for this element? I've been searching, cannot find a definitive answer and would like to save it for my notes.

If you can figure out what the actual model # is, you could probably find it for a lot less on eBay, Amazon, etc...

I think the model number is Camco 02955 , I have gone through two of them. I toasted one of them when I was playing around with steam mashing and had an issue where I managed to back flow grain back into the steam generator scorching the element so bad that it was destroyed,

toast.JPG

the second still works but has a ground fault.

OVZ

After searching the Camco 02955, it appears that's the 4500W stainless version and the 5500W appears to be the Camco 2965.

There are many ways to make a port to accept an electric heating element. You could use a hole saw to cut a hole then tig weld or tig braze (or have someone tig for you) a Tri-Clamp ferrule in place.

A very simple DIY method is to get one of these TriClamp Weldless Bulkhead Fittings. Here's another source. I haven't found many sources that stock these for a more reasonable price.

Brewhardware.com sells Solder On Triclover Flanges.

I'm sure there are other methods too, but those are the one's I know of right off.

NineInchNails wrote:[

After searching the Camco 02955, it appears that's the 4500W stainless version and the 5500W appears to be the Camco 2965.

My bad you are correct. Found this deal while I was checking around: https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDet ... ECLEARANCE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

OVZ

why not one of these?

http://a.co/d/hNU51WX" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Seems like since you only have the one 1.5" ferrule at the bottom you could put a Tee on it and slide this in, I guess. Assuming it's not a narrow one and is a full-width ferrule.

MtRainier wrote:why not one of these?

http://a.co/d/hNU51WX" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Seems like since you only have the one 1.5" ferrule at the bottom you could put a Tee on it and slide this in, I guess. Assuming it's not a narrow one and is a full-width ferrule.

It would be quite difficult to slide a ripple element into a 1.5" Tee, you could fit a straight element in but I would be concerned about that hot spot.

OVZ

MtRainier wrote:why not one of these?

http://a.co/d/hNU51WX" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Seems like since you only have the one 1.5" ferrule at the bottom you could put a Tee on it and slide this in, I guess. Assuming it's not a narrow one and is a full-width ferrule.

I've read some reviews on the Dernord brand and it appears that they are not UL Listed. I've seen where people have used them in hot water heaters and the plastic melted. The wired connections would be exposed as well which makes it a pretty ghetto setup (unless you fabricated a protective cover). Their prices aren't that fantastic so I personally will stick with Camco which has been used by millions.

dirtyhands0321 wrote:Hello fellas, I was wondering what you guys think about me concerting my still to electric. I currently have a a 30L (7.9 gallon) SS boiler and I have a 1.5 inch sanitary port with a drain valve.

How about drilling and treading 2 holes in a 1-1/2 cap
The heater goes in one and the drain connects to the other
There should be room for a 1" and a 1/2" hole on the 1-1/2" cap

shadylane wrote:

dirtyhands0321 wrote:Hello fellas, I was wondering what you guys think about me concerting my still to electric. I currently have a a 30L (7.9 gallon) SS boiler and I have a 1.5 inch sanitary port with a drain valve.

How about drilling and treading 2 holes in a 1-1/2 cap
The heater goes in one and the drain connects to the other
There should be room for a 1" and a 1/2" hole on the 1-1/2" cap

HAHA Shady while I love and take your suggestions very serious I can't see how you could fit both of those fittings in that space

OVZ

Your right, I just got done measuring

No problem Shady you are allowed one and by the way I'm tipping one to you, a HBB aged two years

Happy holidays
OVZ