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After reading alot and making several runs on my pot still I built a Bokakob 2" stands 40 inches tall and im planning on putting it ontop of a 15.5 gallon SS keg. Any thoughts or sugestions?

Looks like a good start to a fine nuetral making machine. Hard to tell from the pics but is the top vented to the atmosphere? Pugi

I forgot to post a pic of the cap i left the hohes around where the water inlet and outlet a little big so if any vapors did make it there it would have to pass close by the water condenser line.
you should be able to click on the pics and get a better view

Looks like an interesting way to build a Boka.
I dont see the reflux tab/tube in the bottom plate. Without a way to direct the reflux it's not going to be very efficiant.

I about forgot about that. the reflux drain tube needs to direct the overflow to the center of the column?

Yes, either a tube or a tab cut into the middle of the lower plate.
Here is what mine is like.

I know that we have all made these with the return being directed down the centre of the packing and advised everyone else that they must do the same but to act as the devils advocate, has anyone really done any comparison on what the actual difference is if the return is directed down the outside edge of the column.
Just havn't read that anywhere.
Would be good to know for sure.
Cheers

If the reflux goes down the sides, it won't vaporize until it has dropped too far down the column. Would make it dificult to get a consistant product and drag heads way deeper into the run.

Looks good to me but I'm just a nubie who just did my first cleaning run on my bokabob tonight.

Hawke wrote:If the reflux goes down the sides, it won't vaporize until it has dropped too far down the column. Would make it dificult to get a consistant product and drag heads way deeper into the run.

Yep, thats what I have been telling people but where is the data. I believe on thinking on the subject that there would not be a lot of difference in temp from the centre to the edge of a 1.5 or 2" column. Now if you are talking a 6 or 12" column or even more, then that may be a different case.
Not saying you're wrong but would like to know where the trials are recorded.
Cheers.

Simple hydro-physics, if it flows down the side of the column it will tend to stay there while the vapor tends to pull away from the side and travel through the middle of the column. (radiant heat loss will tend to slow the vapor closest to the outer wall, causing the center of the column to flow faster and with more heat). If the reflux drops into the center of the vapor path, it will disperse outward, but will vaporize quicker.

I wouldn't use the tube method. It's hard as hell to get that tube soldered inside the column. The tabbed method is easier. With the tube you aim that drip anywhere you like, but it's a dickens to solder

Righto, I'm convinced.
Cheers.

@kullas

Looks like you opted for a 45 degree angle for your slant plates... Plates at 30 degrees will work just as well, and probably better... Here's why... Look at how much liquid ethanol it will take to fill the take off cup before you get any reflux... Then consider how much liquid will be in there between cuts... You'll be collecting extra at both ends that was originally part of the hearts simply because it takes too much off the good or bad to distinguish the change...

As long as your column is plumb, plates at a shallower angle would be the way to go - at least in my opinion... This is only speculation on my part as I have never used 45 degree plates, only 30's... I'm pretty sure my theory is correct, however, because more retained liquid volume is, well, more retained liquid volume...

Looking good just the same... See, now you have a good excuse to build another column...

I hope it is a little while befor i need to build a nother column the 2" aint cheap well i got it for 14$ a foot. If it geets to big of a problem the plates are sordered in the conector just need to make another plate and install it. I didnt make a cut in the outer wall. If i take out the packing and open the valve all the way this is pot still mode? I guess untill i get my SS keg finnished i will keep cooking away with my little pot still

kullas wrote:I hope it is a little while befor i need to build a nother column the 2" aint cheap well i got it for 14$ a foot. If it geets to big of a problem the plates are sordered in the conector just need to make another plate and install it. I didnt make a cut in the outer wall. If i take out the packing and open the valve all the way this is pot still mode? I guess untill i get my SS keg finnished i will keep cooking away with my little pot still

You'll get addicted soon enough and want another still, but I agree about the price of copper as the cheapest I can get 2 inch is $14.50 per foot...

I did notice that you didn't cut slots for the plates... I don't have the patience it would take to go that route... I cut the slot, solder in the plate, then trim and grind down flush with the column...

Yes, removing packing and opening the take-off valve will put you inpot still mode...

Thanks Rad and nice build Kullas. Think I'll stick to 30 degrees for the plates, Don't want to get too cocky...lol